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Author Topic: SLobber box  (Read 2131 times)
wal1809
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« on: October 30, 2010, 06:25:58 PM »

Luvrbus I hope you can chime in here.  Getting under that bus is no easy task for a cornbread eatin fat man.  I made a dumb mistake and used some 2 x 12s to make a ramp to get the butt end of the bus in the air.  Well I easily fit under there to reach the filter but could not get to the plug.  I actually talked my wife under there to get to it.

Now for the slobber box.  The previous owner added what he called a slobber box.  A hose comes down from the driver side of the engine and into the box.  WEll it was full of oil so my wife took that plug out and drained.  The idgits mounted it to the from blocking off the oil pan drain plug.  So I had to talk her through using an impact wrench and taking it off.  It seems to me to be absolutely worthless as it has holes in the top in addition to the hole the hose goes in. So to make this thing work one would have to drain it often as it holds about a half a gallon of oil before it can spill out the other holes.. 

I decided not to put it back on.  So do yall use slobber boxes?  If not what do yall use?
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bobofthenorth
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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2010, 06:38:56 PM »

I'm not Clifford but I've seen his slobber box.  You need to mount the one you've got so that it is more conveniently located - like somewhere that it doesn't block the drain plug on the sump.  My 8-92 has the slobber tubes plumbed into the sump which is bad but so far I've been too lazy to change them.  The problem (as I understand it) is that the slobber tubes can end up passing coolant in which case you absolutely do not want it going back into the sump.  Clifford has a really neat installation with the slobber box between the engine rails and a vent cap on top of it.  If he would post a picture of it we could all learn from his.
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R.J.(Bob) Evans
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Tony LEE
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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2010, 06:39:19 PM »

Needs a hole in the top as a vent.

Mine rarely has much oil in it so either yours hasn't been emptied for a very long time or you have excessive oil bleed or maybe the check valves in the slobber tubes aren't working properly
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buswarrior
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« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2010, 06:40:03 PM »

Your choice, the "slobber" can be collected, or it can drool onto the ground under your engine.

Careful where you park if option 2 is chosen...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Ed Hackenbruch
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« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2010, 06:50:31 PM »

Mine is mounted on the left side of the engine and the drain valve can be reached either thru the engine access doors or from underneath the bumper so draining is easy.
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Eagle Andy
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« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2010, 06:54:15 PM »

I ran a piece of hose from my passenger side to a y that connnected the driver side then I ran the hose into a 4inch round by 12 inch long piece of PVC pipe with caps , then I put a little air breather that I got from o'rielys in the top side and threaded a barbed hose fitting in and connected the hose from the airbox valves . If your idling for long periods of time you will fill the box or pipe up fast . The valve closes at about 900 rpms . I think thats the way Clifford explaned it to me  Oh I used straps to secure it to my frame on the driver side next to the pan . Good luck
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robertglines1
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« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2010, 07:02:11 PM »

will help keep the front of your toad clean also.I park on rock so don't worry about spots on the 89. keep air box drain ck valves clean and working properly :closed above 900 rpm.I had them on the Mci8 Accumulation tanks and did a good job.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2010, 07:22:29 PM »

I used the rear cross member engine mount between the engine rails to make mine welded 2 -1/4 inch pipe coupling into the cross member attached the lines there and cut a hole in the top left corner welded a 1/2 coupling there bought a breather from NAPA for 6 bucks pretty easy and  worked good had the drain at the low section on the back of the cross member with a 1/2 inch coupling and plug so it would not tear off if I hit a high spot coming out of a driveway



good luck
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NoRivets
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« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2010, 06:04:05 AM »

Had one I made out of a tin can.  Used it for awhile before the inframe.  Didn't need it after.
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Joe Camper
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« Reply #9 on: October 31, 2010, 05:42:21 PM »

900rpm is too low to stop the drip 1200 was more like it for our 8-V.

My solution was I do not Idle it, ever. I start it release the brakes and roll. If you are easy on the throttle it will warm up quicker you will  use less fuel and the idle time is also history and that is a winner all the way around

I innitially needed and used glass baby food jars so I could see them but after realizing that with no idling or high idling nothing was ever in them and they have been removed.
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bottomacher
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« Reply #10 on: November 01, 2010, 05:41:18 AM »

Unfortunately, if you have an air throttle you can't just fire it up and go unless you install an auxiliary air compressor.
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Van
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« Reply #11 on: November 01, 2010, 05:54:10 AM »

Joe, FWIW 1200 RPM seems kinda high, might look into servicing the check valves.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #12 on: November 01, 2010, 06:05:57 AM »

Joe probably has the 1200 rpm check valves on his engine they are made in different rpm ranges 900 to 1200 fwiw


good luck
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Van
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« Reply #13 on: November 01, 2010, 06:20:31 AM »

Thanks Clifford, I only knew of the 900's, good to know Wink
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Joe Camper
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« Reply #14 on: November 01, 2010, 06:29:16 AM »

Yes bottomatcher a wait for air is appropriate. This problem is also another good excuse to tighten up the air system.

In the summer (when warmer) and out on a trip (exersizing things) after an overnight, I can wake up to a minimum of 80psi and stay up around 60 after sitting for a few days. It took a long time to get there but we still have a long way to go. Colder temps speed that process up. In winter I loose all pressure after about a week.

 Luvrbus I am going to see if a new and or correct set changes anything.they can't be to much to purchase.

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