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Author Topic: Gold Rush Stacker Trailers  (Read 5339 times)
luvrbus
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« on: December 18, 2010, 05:09:29 AM »

Any of you guys know anything about these trailers,the bank has 2 new ones they floor planned for a dealer that has went under they would be too long and heavy for a bus I would think 32 footers I can get a deal but have no idea what they would sell for the bank had 42 grand in both,no way will I pay that amount but I don't want to buy something I cannot get rid of ask the wife I have enough of that lol   



good luck
« Last Edit: December 18, 2010, 05:26:11 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Joe Camper
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« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2010, 05:26:27 AM »

At 65 and 70 ft length limits for most states you would be pushing it as well as pulling them Tongue
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2010, 05:30:34 AM »

Here's a link to view:

http://www.goldrushinc.com/

Cliff
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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2010, 05:31:57 AM »

They are serious trailers aimed at the dragster market.  empty weight probably around 8K, web site says empty tongue weight 1500.  Meant to be tag towed behind a toter home.  List price is around $60K.  Niche market, they will compete with big fifth-wheel designed for use behind a tractor truck.  I've seen them at the track but never really studied them.

Brian
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« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2010, 05:44:47 AM »

This is another one for sale. Smaller. Don't know the manufacturer can anyone help.

http://prevostmotorhomes.ning.com/forum/topics/enclosed-trailer

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boxcarOkie
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« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2010, 06:50:28 AM »

Any of you guys know anything about these trailers,the bank has 2 new ones they floor planned for a dealer that has went under they would be too long and heavy for a bus I would think 32 footers I can get a deal but have no idea what they would sell for the bank had 42 grand in both,no way will I pay that amount but I don't want to buy something I cannot get rid of ask the wife I have enough of that lol   



good luck

What is it they say?  "You can separate the men from the boys by the price of their toys?"  Too long, too high, too much for me (I aint got the muny honey)

DS
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luvrbus
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« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2010, 07:04:59 AM »

Now, Smith I could come to your house and dig around in the OK red dirt finding your money jars and buy a fleet of those trailers   LOL   



good luck


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akroyaleagle
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« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2010, 09:03:54 AM »

Clifford, there are about 20 on ebay. Do a search for stacker trailer. Most are new and being sold by dealers. But you should have an idea of worth.  Good Luck! Joe
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Joe Laird
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« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2010, 05:17:50 PM »

Now, Smith I could come to your house and dig around in the OK red dirt finding your money jars and buy a fleet of those trailers   LOL   



good luck




She moved it Cliff, it is under the mattress now (at my age that is a pretty safe place to put it).

BCO
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boxcarOkie
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« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2010, 05:18:58 PM »

Clifford, there are about 20 on ebay. Do a search for stacker trailer. Most are new and being sold by dealers. But you should have an idea of worth.  Good Luck! Joe

Which one do you pull the most Joe, the little one or the NASCAR stacker, just curious?

BCO
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akroyaleagle
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« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2010, 09:29:46 PM »

I pulled the little one the most. It made me just under 65'.  the stacker put me over 70'.

It made no difference to the Eagle. It handled either with ease. I've gotten rid of both of those and now have a taller 24' enclosed. Not as nice and not painted yet. Been using it for storage for over 3 years now.

The realization that I no longer live in Alaska, need the protection for the car and pickup, nor the shops and spares has a lot to do with it. Much easier to just hook up one of the trucks and go.
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Joe Laird
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« Reply #11 on: December 19, 2010, 08:06:26 AM »

I have some questions about the electric brakes on this trlr we are using but do not usually pull.

Thanks in advance.



http://prevostmotorhomes.ning.com/forum/topics/electric-brakes

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luvrbus
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« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2010, 09:40:57 AM »

Joe, that is a water tight marine explosion proof plug the rubber gasket is missing on yours change over to the RV type blade not the pin type and all the new controllers made buy manufactures like Tekonsha work off the brake and send a signal to the trailer don't ask me how they work but they do now no need for the high dollar air controllers any longer 50 buck and you are in business


good luck
« Last Edit: December 19, 2010, 10:07:52 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Joe Camper
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« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2010, 10:31:39 AM »

Can you lead me to a source for this 50 dollar controler?

The trlr registration says 1990 if that helps any or changes your thoughts?

Is the plug in the photo for brake hook-up or is it a redudnent plug to the other round 7-pin.
 
I have scoured the thing there isisn't a tag on it anywhere.

The registration Year & Make says- 1990 Mara and thats all I have to work with.

Was there ever a trlr manufacturer called Marathon I googled that to a dead end.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #14 on: December 19, 2010, 11:08:16 AM »

I buy the Hayes from PPL in Houston most of the time they cost around 45 bucks for 2 Axle electric brakes 


good luck
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« Reply #15 on: December 19, 2010, 12:48:25 PM »

I use the Tekonsha Prodigy, but it's usually around a hundred bucks.  Uses g-force sensing so it doesn't have to be mounted level, and has very proportional braking that you can adjust so you can have different amounts of braking delay or boost on the trailer depending trailer weight, etc.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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« Reply #16 on: December 19, 2010, 02:52:58 PM »

The hardest part about a brake controller on a bus is running the wire(s) from the front to the back for the electric brakes.  I ran the 12 volt for my controller from the battery box in the rear as I didn't have enough switched 12 volt up front.  I spent two hours at minimum running the wires.

The second hardest part was hooking up the brake light switch.  I was lucky that my brake light switch is 12 volt even though it controls a relay.  I would have expected it to be 24 volts since there is a relay involved.  I found out later that my brake controller doesn't even require a feed from the brake light switch no matter what the manual says!
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Joe Camper
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« Reply #17 on: December 19, 2010, 05:09:33 PM »

That's good cause my brake light switch is 24volt too.

I already have access to the brake lite wire there is a post on the fuse box under the drivers window and it goes back from there. There is also a 12 volt lug there.

Prevo also put a couple spares going from that fuse box to the engine compartment.

Question how big does the wire need to be?

I have a draw-tite activator II in my hand and it is pretty simple hot ground brake lite switch and a fourth wire to go back to the trlr.

Is there a possibility this has to be mounted level in order to work correctly?

I am also still unsure what terminal on the trlr plug to run it thru?

« Last Edit: December 19, 2010, 05:11:51 PM by Joe Camper » Logged

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belfert
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« Reply #18 on: December 19, 2010, 05:57:16 PM »

I used 10 gauge wire for the brake wire to the trailer because of the distance involved and voltage drop.  I don't believe the brakes use more than 15 amps so 12 gauge should work.

My particular brake controller didn't need the brake switch hooked up, but yours very well may need the brake light switch connected.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #19 on: December 19, 2010, 06:20:43 PM »

I have a very old controller in the garage and I also found this file for everything and it looks very straight forward accept 1 thing.

The schematic ends at the trlr plug. I suppose I need to crawl under there and follow the wheel cylinder wires forward to the plug. 

I am assuming the industry does not have this position standardized or someone would have set me straight by now.

http://www.bsaohio.com/instructs/5500in.pdf

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« Reply #20 on: December 19, 2010, 07:55:36 PM »

Trailer plug wiring is pretty standard as long as you don't have an oddball plug.

See http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx for how to wire the common types of plugs.  Do NOT trust color codes!  Just worry about the signal showing up on the right pin.  I bought a 8 foot 7 way trailer plug from Northern Tool and the colors were all different from standard.  I had to ohm everything out to figure the color code they used.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #21 on: December 20, 2010, 08:28:00 AM »

The answer as to the position of the blue brake wire for a 7-pin trlr plug (6 spades surrounding 1 round pin in the center) is the 7 o'clock position that is where it should be. It is where Dodge located it on our Ram and also where the trlr manufacturer for this trlr also put it.

Everything seems to work well on the trlr just tested my controller and the brakes themselves with the PU.

Now I find out if Prevo had the in site to make one of those spare wires going from the front fuse box to the engine fuse box  10 gauge. That would be perfect.

The instructions on the controller strongly suggest that you power it from the trlr battery if possible. Anyone doing that and or want to explain why?
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« Reply #22 on: December 20, 2010, 08:32:35 AM »

Why would you power the controller from the trailer battery?  There is often a diode on the battery on the trailer to prevent it from feeding power back to the vehicle when parked.

I suspect they mean the vehicle battery, but as long as you have adequate 12 volt power up front you should be fine.  I ran mine all the way back to the battery, but I didn't have enough 12 volt power up front.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #23 on: December 20, 2010, 09:36:48 AM »

The instructions that I read said use the tow vehicle battery, not the trailer battery.  You need a 30 amp capable supply, although the rule of thumb is 10 amps per axle, the controller is usually rated up to three axles.  10 gauge wire at 12 volts is adequate.  On a 24 volt bus, there won't be a lot of spare 10 gauge wires, you can use two 14 gauge wires in parallel.  Use an auto-reset breaker so if the breaker pops for some reason it will auto reset once the load is gone.  i set mine up with a dedicated 30 amp 10 gauge supply wired from the house batteries (which are crossed tied to the bus charging system when the bus is running) and pulled a 10 gauge wire back to the engine compartment  using the old AC piping as a duct.  PITA but it's done now.  Nothing says you can't mount the brake controller at the rear of the bus and eliminate all the front to back wires, but then you can't adjust it or see the warning or operating condition lights.  Kind of the same as having an air brake to electric converter or a brake buddy in your towed car, I figure.  I didn't do it that way, though.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
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1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
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« Reply #24 on: December 20, 2010, 10:13:29 AM »

Mounting the controller in the rear doesn't eliminate the wire from the brake light switch that is generally in the front of the bus.  (Someo controllers don't need the brake light switch connection.)

I suspect you would rarely need the hand control on the brake controller with a bus, but it could come in handy the one time you do need it.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #25 on: December 20, 2010, 10:29:22 AM »

Oddly, I was thinking that mounting it in the back would eliminate running the brake switch wire from the back to the front, since that's exactly what I had to do!  I have my 24 volt to 12 volt light converter in the back, and it supplies the 12 volt brake on signal to the controller in the front.  You can use the vehicle brake lights to switch the controller if you don't have access to the actual brake switch.

All in all, a lot of work to borrow a trailer... Tongue

Brian

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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
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« Reply #26 on: December 20, 2010, 10:38:58 AM »

I forgot about the option of using a 12 volt signal from the lights themselves instead of the brake light switch.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #27 on: December 20, 2010, 01:07:55 PM »

Joe,

FWIW, I sometimes tow a heavy tandem axle trailer with my bus, and my brake controller is in the engine compartment. Never needed the hand controller, it's hard for the trailer to push these big busses. Now, I have needed to press the hand button pulling the same trailer with a pickup.

I use the Tekonsha Prodigy, but it's usually around a hundred bucks.  Uses g-force sensing so it doesn't have to be mounted level, and has very proportional braking that you can adjust so you can have different amounts of braking delay or boost on the trailer depending trailer weight, etc.

Brian

Brian, I'm a big fan of the Prodigy controller. Don't have that model in the bus, but just put one in another truck we have and love it.

Brandon
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« Reply #28 on: December 20, 2010, 02:41:17 PM »

Brian yes it is a lot of work to borow a trlr probably wont be the last time thou. IMO a worthwhile project thanks for all the help everyone it is all downhill from here.
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« Reply #29 on: January 31, 2011, 11:18:08 AM »

luvrbus"

I happen to see your post about the gold rush trailers. I am in the markrt for such, did you buy them if so are you interesed in selling if not do you have any information as to if one is still aviable or would you have interest in working with me some way. just trying to find a trailer at a resonable price.

sorry, hated to barage in on your post but all help would be appreciated

yoy may e-mail me  huttonracing@comcast.net or i will check back on this site

thanking you in advance

wayne hutton
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