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Author Topic: Bus Fridge Dead Need Help/Advice  (Read 4265 times)
kevink1955
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« Reply #15 on: January 02, 2011, 06:59:48 AM »

Do not try to solder to the pins, they are steel and will not take solder. The heat of soldering may also damage the insulator, it's made of glass and fused to the pins to seal the crankcase of the compressor. Break the seal and you will have a refrigerant leak.

Do the resistance tests, expect to find 1 1/2 to 2 ohms between common and the start and run pins. You should have infinity between all pins and the compressor case. If it passes these tests make up a test cord connected to the common and the run pins. Power it up and momentarly jump the start pin to the run pin and if the compressor is good it should start.

Note: remember you are working with line voltage here, be safe. Also do not leave power applyed for more than 15 seconds during the test unless the compressor starts or you will burn up the compressor as the overload protector is in the module.
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rv_safetyman
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« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2011, 07:26:44 AM »

Wow, you guys are fantastic (I knew that going into this thread).  Thanks so much for the help.

Kevin, I have the wiring diagram, but it does not define the pin location vs the terminal.  I should be able to sort out the common with the ohm check,  but not sure how to determine which is the run and start pins. 

If I understand it, neutral and hot to the common and run (no connection for the ground?) and then use something like an insulated screwdriver to jump the run and start terminals.  I am not sure how to connect the wires to the terminals.  My guess is that I can use small vice grips (remembering that they are hot with 120V.

If you folks in CO see the lights dim, dial 911 Shocked

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #17 on: January 02, 2011, 07:36:09 AM »

Jim,
I have used auto style round male/female plugs (similar to spade plugs) for temporary connections on pins (use which ever closest matches your pin size) that way you have a wire to keep things away from each other and you can use a short wire to "jump" the start pin also.
FWIW (I ain't no appliance repairman or even an electrician by any means but I do manage to get dad's attn real quick when I get tired of waiting for his help and start playing on my own! Wink)
Grin  BK  Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #18 on: January 02, 2011, 07:37:46 AM »

PS butt connectors of different gauges work good too! wire crimped in one end - open in the other!
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
kevink1955
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« Reply #19 on: January 02, 2011, 08:09:40 AM »

I thought this was going to be easy till I did a search and found the pin location is not standard between manufacturers. I was always lucky and found some kind of marking on the module. All the ones I worked on had a seprate overload protector located above the module (start relay).

Looking at your pictures the terminal layout is diffrent from what I have worked on, wish I could be more help.

Just for starters why dont you check all the pins to the compressor case, If you get anything but an infinity (open) reading the compressor is junk and the pin layout would be useless anyway.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #20 on: January 02, 2011, 08:27:12 AM »

I never use wire nuts on a bus or RV I always used the Buchanan connector with caps they never come loose, they work better on 12v also than the butt connectors


good luck
« Last Edit: January 02, 2011, 08:35:44 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Oonrahnjay
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« Reply #21 on: January 02, 2011, 10:04:28 AM »

   I never use wire nuts on a bus or RV I always used the Buchanan connector with caps they never come loose, they work better on 12v also than the butt connectors

good luck 


Clifford, I had never heard of Buchanan connectors - they sound like a really useful component.  Do you mean like these?
http://www.drillspot.com/products/67872/Buchanan_B2-1_Wire_Connector

Thanks,  BH
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Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
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rv_safetyman
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« Reply #22 on: January 02, 2011, 10:53:39 AM »

OK guys, got the trusty OHM meter out and there is no short of any of the terminals to the case.  Made real sure I had a good connection with the case.

I got between 2 and 5 ohms between ALL combinations of the three terminals. 

Not real fond of the thought of connecting and jumping (I  am a wuss when it comes to playing with 120V in a tight place).

If the OHM readings look good to you guys, I will order the module and go for it.

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
zubzub
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« Reply #23 on: January 02, 2011, 11:35:06 AM »

just fyi you  don't need to fool with the 120V in a tight place.  I use a stripped extension cord for my tests of this and that.  The male plug end is intact and the female end is bare.....I connect it where needed and then plug the male end in.....no shock risk.
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kevink1955
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« Reply #24 on: January 02, 2011, 03:44:58 PM »

The readings look good. I guess you did nor find any markings on the module to indicate what terminals are Common, Start and Run.

The readings do not sound like they should trip a breaker instantly (did you say it tripped instantly, I do not remember)

If the trip was instant I would try a module and see what happens. Let us know how it goes.
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rv_safetyman
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« Reply #25 on: January 02, 2011, 05:00:50 PM »

Thanks Kevin.  If you saw how badly the module failed (lots of heat/char/total destruction) you would not be surprised that the breaker activated so quickly. 

Now the next issue will be the pin/module connection.  As I say the pins do not look all that good.  I will clean them up with sandpaper, but should I put something on them?  I have di-electric grease, but I would love to coat them with something that assures FULL contact.  Is there such a thing as conductive epoxy or Locktite?

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
Barn Owl
Roanoke, VA
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« Reply #26 on: January 02, 2011, 07:12:23 PM »

Quote
(lots of heat/char/total destruction)

Glad that didn't end up transferring itself to the rest of the bus.
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L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
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kevink1955
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« Reply #27 on: January 02, 2011, 07:23:04 PM »

I think cleaning the pins up real good with some fine emery cloth (not to much as you do not want to reduce the diameter) would do. The dielectric grease would not hurt if used lightly. I would be afraid of any conductive paste grounding out the pin to the compressor shell.

If the new module fits tightly you should be OK, after the startup it only passes a couple of amps so as long as the contacts are clean you should be fine

Let us know how it turns out, good luck
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rv_safetyman
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Jim Shepherd


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« Reply #28 on: January 02, 2011, 08:40:54 PM »

Kevin, again thanks.  I will order the module tomorrow and will keep everyone posted.

Barn Owl, yes, my heart sank when I saw the very charred area.  This is the second time this kind of thing has happened in my bus.  My AquaHot  electric element had the wires connected to the terminals touched.  Big charred area there as well.  It apparently blew the breaker when I first hooked it up.  However, the terminals melted enough that when the breaker was closed, there was no problem.  For a couple of years, I wondered why I did not have electric heating of the boiler.  Assumed I had wired something wrong or had a bad relay.  Finally opened the cover to the element and saw the damage. Angry

Thank goodness that the breakers did their job in both cases

As most folks who know me know, I am a bit paranoid about fires.  We had a fire at the house many years ago.   Had to go right by the flames to get one of the girls out.  That is one of the reasons I wanted a fire suppression system in the bus and ended up designing my own and then offering to others.  At the trade shows, I hear a ton of horror stories and that only makes me more paranoid. 

Of course, I live in fear that the fire suppression guy will loose his bus to a fire Shocked Shocked

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
’85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/
Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #29 on: January 10, 2011, 09:54:45 AM »

Is it fixed? Just curious.
Grin  BK  Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
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