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Author Topic: rv toilets  (Read 8949 times)
johns4104
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« on: January 24, 2011, 05:46:03 PM »

I bought a cheap valterra toilet and am now paying for it.
The water never shuts of and it does not seem to seal well to keep the stink out.

what are suggestions and experiences for a good toilet at a reasonable price.

Thanks,
John
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PD4104-1859
In Sunny Arizona
Apache Junction Near Phoenix
moose
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2011, 05:55:40 PM »

try colaws in joplin missouri rv salvage yard

thedford toilet
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NoRivets
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2011, 06:05:46 PM »

I've got a Sealand china bowl.  I like it, but would buy a more elongated shaped bowl next time.  Not as comfortable as it could be.   Cry

phil
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AZ
1980- RTS - 8v71N w/N-65 A-timed/ 4:10 gears
towing a Jeep Wrangler.  99.9% completed (15th Yr)
Seayfam
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2011, 06:20:44 PM »

I have the THETFORD Aqua-Magic style ll  in my bus, it's full china and uses residential seats. You can get it in 14" high or 19.5" high. The mechanism wipes clean with every flush. I really like this toilet in comparison to the cheap ones in the stick and staple RVs that I have owned. FWIW

Gary
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Gary Seay (location Alaska)
1969 MCI MC-6 unit# 20006
8V92 turbo 740 auto
more pics and information here     "  www.my69mci-6.blogspot.com  "
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2011, 06:53:10 PM »

  The first Bus I had, a 3751, had a genuine residential ceramic toilet. Ive seen a few conversions with one since, but have no working knowledge, pro or con, about them. Other than possible water sloshing, is there any real problem with them?
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belfert
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2011, 07:04:12 PM »

The biggest issue with a residential toilet is water usage.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Seayfam
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« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2011, 07:23:09 PM »

  The first Bus I had, a 3751, had a genuine residential ceramic toilet. Ive seen a few conversions with one since, but have no working knowledge, pro or con, about them. Other than possible water sloshing, is there any real problem with them?


As mentioned it will use a lot of water if you are boondocking. Also the top could possibly fall off on the Al-can highway (Alaska Canada) lol! I have a remote recreational cabin in Alaska and I have a problem with RV antifreeze freezing in the p-traps. I ended up having to use automotive antifreeze.
I think I am going to switch the cabin over to an RV toilet.

Gary
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Gary Seay (location Alaska)
1969 MCI MC-6 unit# 20006
8V92 turbo 740 auto
more pics and information here     "  www.my69mci-6.blogspot.com  "
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« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2011, 08:00:18 PM »

The biggest issue with a residential toilet is water usage.

  Cant use anymore water than an RV type that sticks open after the kid uses it and it empties the tank. BTDT. But I do see the point. Is that the only reason?
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Fred Mc
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2011, 08:09:06 PM »

What about the new lo-flow toilets. How much water do they use?
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Seayfam
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« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2011, 08:37:00 PM »

The new low consumption toilet uses 1.5 gal and don't flush very well.
Also winterizing uses at least 2 gallons. I think splashing out of the lid would be a concern also.
Just my thoughts

Gary
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Gary Seay (location Alaska)
1969 MCI MC-6 unit# 20006
8V92 turbo 740 auto
more pics and information here     "  www.my69mci-6.blogspot.com  "
Dave5Cs
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1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71 HT-740 Allison, Roseville, CA




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« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2011, 09:34:47 PM »

John Sealand 510 Series China Bowl Marine

http://www.sealandtechnology.com/prodsm.asp

Dave
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« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2011, 09:52:27 PM »

  We had a vacuity at the other house, it had some upside down tank inside the main tank that (somehow, I forget how it worked exactly) helped it increase water flow while using less water. That worked really good. Also, the old fashioned type with the tank up near the cieling might work better with less water, because of the fall.

  As for winterising, once the tank is empty you can plunge the toilet, which will blow out the trap. Splash some antifreeze in the tank and flush it into the trap, you should be fine.

  As far as splashing, I dont see that being an issue unless you made a very, very extreme manuever, and even then I bet it would be minor. I never spill anything, not even coffee, even though im riding on bumpy leaf springs. A Bus is more stable.
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Seayfam
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« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2011, 10:14:48 PM »

John Sealand 510 Series China Bowl Marine

http://www.sealandtechnology.com/prodsm.asp

Dave



Now that looks like a nice toilet!!
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Gary Seay (location Alaska)
1969 MCI MC-6 unit# 20006
8V92 turbo 740 auto
more pics and information here     "  www.my69mci-6.blogspot.com  "
JWallin
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« Reply #13 on: January 25, 2011, 04:39:34 AM »

We sure like out Kohler.
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belfert
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« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2011, 05:24:08 AM »

An RV toilet sticking open and emptying the tank is a pretty rare occurance.  Until yesterday I had never heard of that happening in fact.  You're more likely to have a residential toilet flapper get stuck open than an RV toilet.  How many people have leaky toilets in stick homes?  A full flow residential toilet uses 5 gallons per flush.  A low flow uses 1.6 gallons.  An RV toilet generally between a pint and a quart. 

I've had low flow toilets in my stick home for almost 10 years now.  They don't clog any more than any other toilet.  Early low flow toilets were bad, but not modern versions.  I don't know where you might find a full flow toilet these days.  You would probably have to pull one out of an old house or maybe a reuse store might have one.

I have a Thetford Aria Classic toilet.  Full ceramic with elongated bowl.  Not cheap at $430, but worth it to me.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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