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Author Topic: 8V71 Won't Start  (Read 4877 times)
Lin
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1965 MC-5a




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« Reply #30 on: March 09, 2011, 03:54:58 PM »

Gus- the electric fuel pump on the bus was right by the fuel tank.  The one I installed on the 440 motorhome was by he engine. I ended up putting it in parallel and adding, I think, two check valves.
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Greg Smith
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« Reply #31 on: March 09, 2011, 06:46:47 PM »

When the bus is cold, or has been sitting for a while, I turn on the electric pump, let it run for 3-5 min. and the beast always fires up immediately. That's the way I roll--lol

Greg
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pabusnut
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P8M4905A-333 former MK&O lines #731




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« Reply #32 on: March 10, 2011, 07:46:37 PM »

Thanks guys!

I'll be ordering the check valve tomorrow.  I did get it started last saturday and ran it up to Paul's Garage in York Springs to get the brakes adjusted and (now) 2 air bags replaced.   I think I found where the check valve is on the bulkhead ahead of the engine.
When I find a 24Vdc pump, I will put that on in a bypass loop for re-priming.

Steve Toomey
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Steve Toomey
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rampeyboy
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1954 Scenicruiser PD4501-227




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« Reply #33 on: March 11, 2011, 02:21:48 AM »

maybe you should look into a dropping resistor and use a 12 volt pump. Airplane guys use a dropping resistor to use 12v things in there 24v(28v) aircraft. You could try Aircraft Spruce for instance.
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Boyce Rampey
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Scenicruiser 227
gus
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« Reply #34 on: March 11, 2011, 07:20:35 PM »

Lin,

Suction pumps don't work well unless they are close to the tank, probably the reason the Dodge pump didn't work so well. I can see why such a small pump won't pull enough suction on such a long fuel line.

PA,

Two weeks ago my 8V71 wouldn't start after three long attempts in 72* weather. First time it ever failed to start even in 10* weather since I bought it in Dec.

Today at 65* it started on the first crank.

I finally decided that two weeks ago my batteries were not fully charged. Today they had been charging for a week on my newly installed converter with a four-stage smart charger. My conclusion is that those 8Vs like to spin to start and weak batteries won't do it.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
Lin
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« Reply #35 on: March 11, 2011, 08:57:50 PM »

Gus,

The electric fuel pump worked fine on that Dodge 440 if it was turned on, but it did not let enough fuel pass if it was off.  I would like to add an electric pump inline in the bus.  It would be great for priming if needed and also as a backup should the mechanical pump fail.  I just don't know which one will definitely allow enough fuel to pass when it is turned off.  I suppose that one could just leave the pump on all the time, but I prefer not to.  It sounds like Clifford has one that works, so it must be doable.
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buswarrior
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'75 MC8 8V71 HT740




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« Reply #36 on: March 12, 2011, 06:49:29 PM »

Busnuts usually report plumbing an electric priming pump in parallel to the main fuel line, using valves or check valves to put them in or out of play.

That takes the flow-through consideration right out of the thought process, and opens up the opportunity to use less expensive/smaller components.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

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gus
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« Reply #37 on: March 12, 2011, 06:52:20 PM »

Obviously a pump in parallel has no flow through problem but it is so much easier to plumb in series where all those elbows and valves are eliminated.

I want to install one but want to go the simpler series route.
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
Van
Billy Van Hagen
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89' Silver Eagle 15/40 6V92MUI Boulder City,NV




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« Reply #38 on: March 12, 2011, 07:27:04 PM »

Lin, Clifford use to leave his on if I am not mistaken, I have the same as Clifford's, I leave mine off till needed for filter changes, this June will make four years/ 2200 mi, no problem o Amigo! I think mine was from Car Quest 63 bucs, In-line/Diesel rated/flo-thru/ built in check valve. It has been more than adequate and keeps my 9G90's smilin' Grin
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gus
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« Reply #39 on: March 13, 2011, 06:28:28 PM »

Van,

Sounds good to me. I don't suppose you have the part number or know what size tubing it uses?
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PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
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