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Author Topic: lube pump or disconnect  (Read 3211 times)
eddiepotts
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« Reply #15 on: March 11, 2011, 09:13:30 AM »

How long will you be gone. A u-haul trailer May be the way to go. You may even check Cl and find a private lease.
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white-eagle
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« Reply #16 on: March 11, 2011, 10:02:21 AM »

i see leaving it idling has been mentioned.  we have experience.  this is probably our 4th year towing from FL to TX to MO to OH.  this past year, Fl to OH to SD to OH to PA to KY to FL.  We pull a Chevy express 1500 van, about 8k lbs loaded, behind the bus.

we were disconnecting drive shaft, but got to be a pain when we needed the van quick, or raining, or wrong turn somewhere.

No problems and i try to keep close tabs on it and maintenance.  Knock on wood...

Price of fuel is beginning to be an issue again. We use about a gallon an hour while towing down the road, and we do rack up miles obviously.
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Tom
1991 Eagle 15 and proud of it.
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Fran was called to a higher duty 12/16/13. I lost my life navigator.
RJ
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« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2011, 10:23:16 AM »

Don & Cary -

I know at least seven folk here locally (Fresno, CA) with Class A stick 'n staple rigs that use the Remco driveline disconnect for their toads.

Every one of them has said it's a great solution, and works very well.

None have had problems with the units, and only one had it professionally installed.

One fellow tows an older rear-wheel drive Cadillac!

OTOH, I have heard rumors that sometimes you have to get the driveshaft rebalanced, but that's all I've heard - rumors.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
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JohnEd
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« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2011, 10:28:04 AM »

No way Bob a guy cheaper than you lol but that boat will make you part with some cash damn I don't know what mine will cost when I start using it I get a bill every week and haven't seen it in 4 months


good lucks

I am getting a "boat".  It will be a 12 foot lake boat with a 5 horse motor.  Fits right up on top of the Ranger and attaches to the cap.  Got a boat loader for free and so far have $150 into aluminum.  So I don't even have the thing yet and I am out 150.  In terms of how much I have spent for my boat vs how much it is available to me....I think I have you all beat.  Albeit in the wrong direction. Wink Grin


John
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« Reply #19 on: March 11, 2011, 10:37:50 AM »

Don & Cary -

I know at least seven folk here locally (Fresno, CA) with Class A stick 'n staple rigs that use the Remco driveline disconnect for their toads.

Every one of them has said it's a great solution, and works very well.

None have had problems with the units, and only one had it professionally installed.

One fellow tows an older rear-wheel drive Cadillac!

OTOH, I have heard rumors that sometimes you have to get the driveshaft rebalanced, but that's all I've heard - rumors.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink

The Remco requires you to use a shortened drive shaft.  most get a replacement and keep their stock item for when they trade off the toad.  Because you actually "add" a component with spline coupling to your drive line there are a host of things that might lead to vibration.  I have heard of many that had slight vibration but none that were truly objectionable.  Haven't heard of any that completely resolved the issue if they had it.  It hasn't been that the shortened drive shaft was out of balance but more that the entire assy of shaft and coupler had some sort of issue.  Everybody loves them and I have yet to hear about anybody getting theirs removed because they were unsatisfied with any aspect of the Remco.  This is after 50, or so, shop installations.  I idle and I could get this for wholesale and the install would be free to me.

FWIW,

John

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
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Cary and Don
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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2011, 11:36:21 AM »

If the truck stalls,  does the steering wheel lock up even though it is in neutral?  We could wire up an alarm so we could stop pretty quick,  but if the steering locks,  the tires aren't going to be happy.

Don and Cary
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white-eagle
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« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2011, 11:57:39 AM »

the steering lock is based on the key being in, not the engine running.  

i do keep the rear camera on, but i don't have any alarms.  We stop every couple hours to stretch, bathroom break, check the tires and the toad.
Make sure your tow brake is adjusted for power assisted brakes though.  most are expecting to have to push hard to stop your toad because there is no power assist.  otherwise you may lock your toad wheels when you hit your bus brakes, no matter whose braking system you have.  we have an smi air force 1 made for air brake systems and they adjusted it for us when they shipped it.



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Tom
1991 Eagle 15 and proud of it.
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Fran was called to a higher duty 12/16/13. I lost my life navigator.
eddiepotts
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« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2011, 01:45:20 PM »

I think some has missed this part of what you said. All are great ideas but all sounds expensive for a one time use. I think some pricing should be spoken here to make the right decision.
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We want to use the truck on the way home,  but this isn't going to be our regular tow vehicle.  The truck we will be towing after this is a 72 chevy pickup with a camper shell.  But it isn't ready for the road and it would be real uncomfortable to drive 2000 miles.  How long does it take to drop the drive shaft?  This truck is brand new for all intents.  The bolts shouldn't be froze.
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Joe Camper
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« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2011, 05:14:33 PM »

Brian your last comment is dead on what I have found. Additionally the rear flange on a Dodge is a 4 large bolts and really easy to remove as you suggest. Often I reinstall only 2 always driving it easy anyway. Takes less than 5 min.

Funny thing is I really don't have issue with it its my wife who is embarrassed for for me when we pull up to check in and I get out of or XL and throw on the coveralls and crawl under the PU. Don't bother me one bit LOL

Maybe she will get me one for Xmas I'll have to ask. Last year I got a new Raritan Maserator toilet (and I loved it)

At 51 I will assume we still have quite a few miles of bussin so IMO we need a more conventional aproach even it it costs a few bucks up front.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2011, 05:26:11 PM by Joe Camper » Logged

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« Reply #24 on: March 11, 2011, 09:14:54 PM »

  If your going to have a real toad, buy one thats built tobe towed. If your only transporting, driveshaft drop is the most bulletproof approach.

  I like our Cherokee, and see a lot of them. Just poke the T-case into N, poke the trans into P, and go. I pulled the steering lock and took the bolt out, no more lock steering, no need to leave keys in it.
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Don4107
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« Reply #25 on: March 11, 2011, 11:11:02 PM »

If you DC the drive line there are a couple things to watch for.  If you pull the drive line out of the tranny you will lose fluid and collect dirt.  Make sure that the drive line is secured and pulling forward to avoid letting it slip back enough to drop the front turning your pickup into a 6000 lb po-go stick.  Shocked

Good luck
Don 4107
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Don 4107 Eastern Washington
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« Reply #26 on: March 12, 2011, 06:52:51 AM »

I had my remco installed when I bought my Tacoma in 05 and I have had zero problems with it. When I buy another vehicle I will do the same. With all the bad weather we have been in after stopping,I would never consider disconnecting the drive shaft,but that's just me. I like things simple and when we stop I can have my toad ready to drive in a min. or so.
    Don
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JohnEd
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« Reply #27 on: March 12, 2011, 11:54:18 AM »

If the truck stalls,  does the steering wheel lock up even though it is in neutral?  We could wire up an alarm so we could stop pretty quick,  but if the steering locks,  the tires aren't going to be happy.

Don and Cary
GMC 4107
Neoplan AN340

In the tow in neutral method the PS has full pressure and the toad tracks and turns easily.  In a remco DS disconnect or the trans lubber, the engine is off and the vehicle still tracks without problems.  All are towed with the key in the ignition and the steering wheel UN-locked.  If your engine quite you can still go the 50 miles that they say is the "LIMIT" before damage.  At least that is what I was told.  That should be enuf to get you to someplace where you can unbolt the DS.

Get the tire pressure monitoring kit cause a flat back there that goes unnoticed can do great damage and even start a fire.  Fires usually leave the drive shaft in tact.

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
buswarrior
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« Reply #28 on: March 12, 2011, 07:06:11 PM »

As for flooding the transmission...

The Dodge Caravan that I was witness to, the busnut used a windshield washer bottle of appropriate size from the wreckers, with a 1/4 turn valve on the line out the bottom.

Time to tow?

Open valve and let contents drain down into the tranny via a "T" in the cooler lines. Then the usual stuff to keep the steering unlocked.

Time to drive?

Start engine, open valve, let tranny pump it back into the bottle back up to the fill line drawn on the bottle with a marker, close the 1/4 turn valve, drive away.

IIRC, the same busnut just idled his next tow vehicle...

lots of ways!

happy coaching!
buswarrior

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JohnEd
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« Reply #29 on: March 12, 2011, 11:03:52 PM »

Now that beats letting it idle by a mile.  In my case my Ranger has the problem with the transfer case and it is a stick.  But you have a sure fire winner there.

John
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"An uneducated vote is a treasonous act more damaging than any treachery of the battlefield.
The price of apathy towards public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." Plato
“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.”
—Pla
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