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Author Topic: Cost of inframe overhaul for 8V71, 8V92 and 6V92.  (Read 6118 times)
luvrbus
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« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2011, 09:16:45 AM »

One thing you guys need to remember is a in frame on a high mileage engine is just to squeeze a few more miles from the engine before the big one I personally am not a huge fan of the in frame

good luck
« Last Edit: March 10, 2011, 09:19:54 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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belfert
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« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2011, 10:10:55 AM »

They can Brian but to me it is a lot easier just to roll the engine out it is a bitch trying to install the heads and keeping the oring gaskets in place on a 2 stroke  on a

On a Dina bus they don't have a nice engine cradle like most other buses.  Dina has a fairly beefy frame at the rear that runs up to the drive axle.  The engine is mounted directly to the frame with motor mounts.  I would really hope the radiator wouldn't have to come out to remove the engine as that is a 4 hour project alone for two strong guys.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2011, 10:38:15 AM »

Many years ago I was a Master Distributor for Clevite and FP.    It was very interesting to know "who" actually made what.   Mahle owns Clevite right now.   15 years ago, 80% of the liners in the US were contracted to Mahle.   Things changed when the plant burnt.    Cat was the first to have issue with the "brittle" liners.   I have 6 warranty claims where 8V71 liners were split all due to case hardening issues that the new plant was having.   

Perfect circle rings were in the Clevite family.   The were private labeled to FP.   Alot of the OEM pistons were cast in FP plants and final machined in different companies.    You could have Victor Reinz gaskets and OEM FP gaskets in both kits.    For good customers that maintained there own fleet, I had a master list of various kits that were genuine Original Equipment suppliers to either Cat or Detroit.  You could order a Cat Clevite 3406B 9 degree rod piston and it had the CAT logo..   

There is alot of garbage out there.   If one doesn't want to buy from Detroit,  try to purchase Original Manufacturer components>  this is different from OEM.   Labor is so expensive, saving $400 in a inframe kit isn't worth doing it over again.   
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« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2011, 02:39:09 PM »

 Labor is so expensive, saving $400 in a inframe kit isn't worth doing it over again.   

   All the more reason for a DIY'er to buy the very best parts. Your doing your own work to save money on the job, and doing the job to fend off trouble away from home, to hopefully save even more money. Cheap parts are poor economy.

    
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busnut104
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« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2011, 03:17:10 PM »

I have used Fel-Pro Kits with no issues. I know of one shop that give you the option of FP or DD they say that they use 90% FP. These guys do a lot of engines and mainly DD.
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Chopper Scott
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« Reply #20 on: March 10, 2011, 05:20:25 PM »

It's kind of like marine engines. You are supposed to buy marine quality only. The bearings all say Clevite 77 on them regardless. So the quality of a kit I buy for a race car engine that I plan to torture is not as good as the marine kit that never sees 5 grand? I guess my biggest issue anymore is the poor quality of items we grew up with that were top of the line.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #21 on: March 10, 2011, 05:28:23 PM »

Scott, I used the Clevite sliver coated marine bearings in my 8v92 nice bearings but a little pricey for the average rebuild lol


good luck 
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Chopper Scott
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« Reply #22 on: March 10, 2011, 05:33:55 PM »

I haven't done any motors for probably  7 or 8 years now but I can't remember ever having bearings that didn't have Clevite stamped on them.
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chart1
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« Reply #23 on: March 10, 2011, 08:07:17 PM »

What would be the difference between the marine and land bearing they both are in the oilpan with oil ? Maybe it cost more because it says marine.
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« Reply #24 on: March 10, 2011, 08:08:29 PM »

  Ive seen quite a few Vandervell bearings in european stuff. What made me laugh was finding Clevites in a Vandervell box, and vice versa.

  Bearings are all pretty simular in quality, never seen or heard of a problem with bearings. Gaskets and seals are a different story, especially head gaskets, as there are often different levels of quality even within the same manufacturer. Scott, you mentioned Marine vs a race motor. Marine engines work hard continuously, which put a different strain on things. But your right, good gaskets are good gaskets.

  Some shops will put in the cheapest parts they can find wholesale, and charge you the inflated retail price of OEM parts along with the labor. Thats how crooked shops make money. Ive known and heard of shops that even put down the OE part number on the invoice just to be more convincing. When your doing this stuff yourself, a site like this can be of great benefit by using the parts places others know about and recommend and who offer REAL OEM parts at reasonable cost. Aftermarket is good for some stuff, but not usually inside an engine where the labor to fix it is in the 20 to 40 hour range (or more), and when the damage it can cause is in the thousands.

  By selecting factory and OE parts, you have a much better start at building a good engine. Poor quality gaskets and seals, even when the innards are good, can make for a real headache when the suckers bleeding oil like a sieve. Or having real good gaskets and seals, and junk parts that just arent working out well giving you a big clattering smoker. BTDTHTS. The really stupid part is hearing this stuff, or actually knowing it (and I was hearing it when I was 15), and buying the cheap parts anyway. I still catch myself doing it, only know I want to kick my own ____!

  Then too, you have to watch out for counterfit parts. They put the cheapo stuff in the factory box, you get screwed, they make BIG bucks. Another reason for using a supplier a lot of people know and trust.
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Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #25 on: March 10, 2011, 08:14:43 PM »

What would be the difference between the marine and land bearing they both are in the oilpan with oil ? Maybe it cost more because it says marine.

Marine parts are rust proofed! Wink
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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luvrbus
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« Reply #26 on: March 10, 2011, 08:19:31 PM »

Cory, the sliver bearing will run 3 or 400 thousand miles without problems regular bearing need to be replaced in 2 stroke at 100 to 150 thousand miles and me I don't like replacing those nasty things and I don't like oil in my face lol

good luck
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chart1
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« Reply #27 on: March 10, 2011, 08:32:12 PM »

Cory, the sliver bearing will run 3 or 400 thousand miles without problems regular bearing need to be replaced in 2 stroke at 100 to 150 thousand miles and me I don't like replacing those nasty things and I don't like oil in my face lol

good luck

I don't mind replacing the bearings every 10 years .....100,000 miles /10,000 miles a year= 10 years.. LOL Huh
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1976 MCI 8
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