I started trying to explain it three times but changed my mind. . . .
Same here, there's so much to be said.
Well, if there's a will there's a way, so here goes...
I can't help but think back of the tire man who looked to have missed his natural calling as a jockey. And... this was in the days of hammering apart tube-type multi-piece rims. Then there's the OTR tire manual that showed step-by-step, a man practically dressed in a business suit changing an earth mover tire. LOL And since I've removed off-road tire assemblies by myself, without power tools, assemblies which are too heavy for anyone to lift, I say yes, it can be done.
This description is not all inclusive or detailed by any means and carries some presumptions which may or may not not apply. As others chip in with their own ideas and details I think the whole picture can be covered.
A torque multiplier is nice but there are other options. For example, an inexpensive striker wrench, or slugger wrench, will loosen incredibly tight fasteners with ease. This method would easily loosen the tightest front wheel nuts. However, there is not enough room to use a simple slugger on the rear wheels. but there are some other leverage tricks for that.
The air suspension could be "fooled" to elevate the body so that it could be PROPERLY and SAFELY cribbed. This would leave only the weight of the axle to be raised by a hydraulic bottle jack which needs to be placed on a suitable SOLID STABLE base, usually a heavy steel plate, not dirt or soft wood.
Once unbolted, the wheel can be easily slid away from the hub by using two smooth steel slide-plates which are oiled (or on rollers) to reduce friction. If working on a poor surface, the lower plate will probably have to be at least ˝" thick, or a "C" channel shape pushed into the ground, to support the wheel assembly without the plate sagging.
Next, using the bottle jack the axle is raised high enough to put the slide-plates under the tire. The wheel is positioned so that a hand-hole (without an easily damaged valve stem) is at 12 o'clock. The jack is carefully lowered until it can be seen that the wheel assembly is supported by the plates yet the wheel is free of the hub's studs. The two remaining nuts can now be backed off almost completely. If the height adjustment is right, using a pinch bar through a hand-hole (never a hand) the hub can be "jiggled" within the wheel and the assembly "walked" away from the hub.
With the height adjusted correct for slide-off, while using one hand to hold the tire vertical from 12 o'clock, the assembly can be "clawed" away from the hub with a long pinch bar. At the last possible moment the two remaining nuts are removed. The key will be to keep the tire vertical so that there is no weight shift. However, if the assembly begins to fall, there's no choice but to stay clear and let it go. The pinch bar through a hand-hole can be used to stand it back up. Once separated from the hub, some "walking" of the tire may be necessary to clear the body. As Trucktramp mentioned some like to work with their back to the tire.
There is much more detail that could be covered but I think we have the key points. I'll mention that a "yellow strap" ratcheting tie strap can be very useful when working with too-heavy tires.
Again, it will be most important to safely support the coach, probably with large heavy wood blocks, don't even think about masonry blocks.
Ted
