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Author Topic: Slobber tubes redirected to oil pan  (Read 3250 times)
basil
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« on: March 23, 2011, 03:37:13 PM »

I am the question guy today

Mechanic recommended redirecting slobber tubes to oil pan.   Said he did this on fleet of 2 strokes for 30 years.

Bad idea?

Keeps pavement clean(er)
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thomasinnv
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« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2011, 03:41:52 PM »

I believe that was the recommended method some years ago, but not so much now.  Some have talked about the contaminated oil being put back into the engine.  I would either use tubing to direct them into catch containers or install check valves.
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Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2011, 03:52:08 PM »

Catch containers is the way to go!
At one time it was they did it. But DD put out a bulletin and kit to change it due to the possibility of coolant getting in the oil pan and washing out the bearings in the event of a O-ring, liner, or after cooler failure or even blown head gasket or a cracked head.
Grin  BK  Grin
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luvrbus
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« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2011, 03:52:50 PM »

 Basil 30 years ago was about the time DD issued a service bulletin telling you not to that and you with a 8v92 no way you need those open that was a CA thing for transit buses as Cole always said why cover up the best diagnostic tool you have for a DD lol  


good luck  
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TomC
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« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2011, 07:16:27 AM »

I've done a bit of research into this.  Airsep-who makes boat engine room closed breather systems-also makes coalescing breather systems for diesels (the EPA considers engine blow by to be part of the smog output of an engine now).  What it is-you feed the valve cover and block breather tubes to this can looking thing that has a filter in it.  Through condensation, it separates out the oil and sends it back to the oil pan.  The crankcase pressure is plumbed back through the engine intake where it actually creates a vacuum pulling the pressure in the engine down (many have reported a lowering of oil consumption).  Airsep makes various sized units for different sized engines.  Any inside emergency generator will have this system on it.  The cost for my 8V-71-about $1,500.00! (and you have to change the filter periodically).  I'm making my own system.  Using an unused gallon paint can, I'm going to punch three 1.25" holes in the lid for the valve cover breather, block breather, and then breather to the road. Then also have a ball valve drilled through the base to empty it periodically. Cost-less then $200.00 (1.25" hose is expensive).
Airsep also makes a special catch can for the two blower weep lines.  It's about the size of two coffee cans stuck together and also has a ball valve on the bottom to empty it.  As Airsep said, you don't want to recirculate the slobber from the blower tubes-can be rather nasty.  That can is about $300.00.  Good Luck, TomC
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chev49
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« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2011, 07:57:20 AM »

It would be easy to get some 6" thin wall pipe 6 to 8 inches long and make one stronger than the coffee can..... mig weld it and your bracket mounts to it.. should be a fast job. anyway, thats how I would do it.
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Don Fairchild
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« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2011, 09:17:27 AM »

Basil, Nice to hear from you, how you doing.  The part for the slobber tank is #23506758.

Hope that helps

Don
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Lin
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« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2011, 09:58:18 AM »

This may be a slight diversion, but can slobber tube oil be used for analysis?
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thomasinnv
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« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2011, 10:01:30 AM »

I would think it would give a false result, as the metal contents could be concentrated as well as the fuel contents, acid levels etc.  some of it is after all most likely coming by the rings??  just my thoughts.
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There are three kinds of people in this world....those that make things happen, those that watch things happen, and those that just wonder what the heck is happening. Which one are you?

1977 MCI Crusader MC-8
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luvrbus
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« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2011, 10:06:04 AM »

If you have the enclosed type cross member on your Eagle tie both tunes into that easy job little welding but if it has the open type double layer forget about the above, the small cylinders that party stores sells for balloons make a great little catch can without much work and they will give the empty ones to you small and easy to weld the 2 fitting for the tubes 1 for the breather and one for the drain strap in it you are done  


good luck
« Last Edit: March 24, 2011, 10:21:16 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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kaptar
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« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2011, 10:32:15 AM »

Last year I purchased a 4104 in Portland Or. My wife followed me back to washington up I-5. She kept increaseing our spaceing the farther we went. Weird. When we got home I found out why. Her Magnum isn't going to rust anytime soon. The slobber tubes were just rubber hoses pointed towards the ground. Thats what happens when you buy something without having a clue what your looking at. Oh well it can all be fixed and I don't think anyone slipped off the road because of the oil slick. The fixit list is long.
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babell2
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2011, 10:05:59 AM »

Last year I purchased a 4104 in Portland Or. My wife followed me back to washington up I-5. She kept increaseing our spaceing the farther we went. Weird. When we got home I found out why. Her Magnum isn't going to rust anytime soon. The slobber tubes were just rubber hoses pointed towards the ground. Thats what happens when you buy something without having a clue what your looking at. Oh well it can all be fixed and I don't think anyone slipped off the road because of the oil slick. The fixit list is long.

 if it's a DD They say if it stops leaking "Its broke" or " its out of oil"
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Geoff
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2011, 10:19:42 AM »

If you are losing a noticable amount of oil out the air box drains (not 'slobber tubes'), your engine needs work-- it is either the blower seals or piston rings that cause the oil in the air box.  Getting a catch container is just a stop-gap fix.
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Geoff
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2011, 09:25:14 PM »

those sayings about leaking Detroits being ok were made up by folks who weren't maintaining their equipment.

And are perpetuated by busnuts who do the same.

This hobby goes straight to h*ll as soon as one of us goes slobbering down the right highway and the wrong person notices.

Make it stop leaking. It is possible.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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boxcarOkie
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« Reply #14 on: March 26, 2011, 04:12:38 AM »

Must be ingrained in the male psyche, "oil leaks" are generic to any kind of device known to man.  They used to say "If a Harley did not have oil under it, it was out."  It just doesn't apply to buses only ... As long as it gets me from point A to point B in a reasonable fashion, I don't care if it has a few freckles on the back.

BCO
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Joe Camper
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« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2011, 08:00:27 AM »

Our 8-V 92 TA  leaks out of those tubes at idle as well as high idle. I put some containers on them and additionally discovered the drivers side pushes out twice what the other side does. I also emptied them immediately prior to a 1000 mile day and found absolutely zip zero nothing in them after that run.

I am fairly confident we have some issues but until we get it sourted out as soon as I acheeve air pressure I roll. I just don't idle it any more. We can now unhook the toad with NOTHING MORE than standard road grime that accumulates on one, no matter how long the trip.

Dittos on all the other leaks ours was terrible when we got it. Takes 2000 miles to use up a gallon now. The current engine has 125000  Nothing is more fun than camping next to one of our friends with one of these rolling bordellos and being able to open the engine bay doors and put their engine to shame. They have gotten a bad rap and can be sealed up just like any other engine.

I view air leaks the same as oil. Almost impossible to get ours to hold air for more than a few days when under 32 degree but the cold climate also assists in finding the small leaks that go away when its 70 out.

 Many of the bus owners I have come across are pilots and they have had a huge influence on me. Most are anal about service never run a part till it breaks and have superior equipment and very infrequent problems because of it.

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« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2011, 08:06:06 AM »

Well, some people will bitch if you give them a gold plated christmas tree...

 Grin
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luvrbus
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2011, 08:13:40 AM »

If the check valves are working right there should be no oil above 900 rpm coming from the air box drains, there are 2 different check valves setting for the DD one seals at 900 rpm the other is 1200 rpm and fwiw I have seen engines with the different setting on each side lol another note they need to be mounted on a angle never up or on a true 45 degree angle 

good luck
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 08:19:22 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Lin
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« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2011, 11:48:42 AM »

Clifford,

I just need some clarification on that.  I understand you are saying that the check valve should be at an angle instead of vertical and should never be tilted upward, but are you saying it should or should not be at a 45 degree angle down?
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Van
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« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2011, 01:54:03 PM »

Lin, it's kinda in between the 45-90.


   Van
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Lin
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« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2011, 02:36:02 PM »

I'm still unclear.  Which axis are we measuring from?  Is that 45-90 down from the horizontal or 45-90 up from the vertical?
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Van
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« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2011, 07:18:42 PM »

Mine are angled slightly down from horizontal Lin.
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Gary '79 5C
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« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2011, 07:07:12 AM »

I Many of the bus owners I have come across are pilots and they have had a huge influence on me. Most are anal about service never run a part till it breaks and have superior equipment and very infrequent problems because of it.


Joe, we have never met, nor have you seen the crap cars I drive, but being a pilot I do maint the heck out each and would drive either to east - west coast without hesitation.

Bill @ US Coach has repaired my largest leak (line to turbo) and I drip very little. I am interested in a slobber tube collector. I picked up a 4" dia sch 40 PVC, but too large. I am thinking of lightweight structural tube, maybe steel, alum if I can find it. Weld ends closed, fittings for inlet, air breather on top, drain down below. I was thinking of two, one on each side (duh) about the size of the engine cradle tubing. The starter side would have to be removable for starter change out.

Whacha think ??
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