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Author Topic: Slobber tubes redirected to oil pan  (Read 3245 times)
Joe Camper
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« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2011, 08:00:27 AM »

Our 8-V 92 TA  leaks out of those tubes at idle as well as high idle. I put some containers on them and additionally discovered the drivers side pushes out twice what the other side does. I also emptied them immediately prior to a 1000 mile day and found absolutely zip zero nothing in them after that run.

I am fairly confident we have some issues but until we get it sourted out as soon as I acheeve air pressure I roll. I just don't idle it any more. We can now unhook the toad with NOTHING MORE than standard road grime that accumulates on one, no matter how long the trip.

Dittos on all the other leaks ours was terrible when we got it. Takes 2000 miles to use up a gallon now. The current engine has 125000  Nothing is more fun than camping next to one of our friends with one of these rolling bordellos and being able to open the engine bay doors and put their engine to shame. They have gotten a bad rap and can be sealed up just like any other engine.

I view air leaks the same as oil. Almost impossible to get ours to hold air for more than a few days when under 32 degree but the cold climate also assists in finding the small leaks that go away when its 70 out.

 Many of the bus owners I have come across are pilots and they have had a huge influence on me. Most are anal about service never run a part till it breaks and have superior equipment and very infrequent problems because of it.

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chev49
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« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2011, 08:06:06 AM »

Well, some people will bitch if you give them a gold plated christmas tree...

 Grin
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luvrbus
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2011, 08:13:40 AM »

If the check valves are working right there should be no oil above 900 rpm coming from the air box drains, there are 2 different check valves setting for the DD one seals at 900 rpm the other is 1200 rpm and fwiw I have seen engines with the different setting on each side lol another note they need to be mounted on a angle never up or on a true 45 degree angle 

good luck
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 08:19:22 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Lin
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« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2011, 11:48:42 AM »

Clifford,

I just need some clarification on that.  I understand you are saying that the check valve should be at an angle instead of vertical and should never be tilted upward, but are you saying it should or should not be at a 45 degree angle down?
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Van
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« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2011, 01:54:03 PM »

Lin, it's kinda in between the 45-90.


   Van
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Lin
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« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2011, 02:36:02 PM »

I'm still unclear.  Which axis are we measuring from?  Is that 45-90 down from the horizontal or 45-90 up from the vertical?
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« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2011, 07:18:42 PM »

Mine are angled slightly down from horizontal Lin.
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Gary '79 5C
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« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2011, 07:07:12 AM »

I Many of the bus owners I have come across are pilots and they have had a huge influence on me. Most are anal about service never run a part till it breaks and have superior equipment and very infrequent problems because of it.


Joe, we have never met, nor have you seen the crap cars I drive, but being a pilot I do maint the heck out each and would drive either to east - west coast without hesitation.

Bill @ US Coach has repaired my largest leak (line to turbo) and I drip very little. I am interested in a slobber tube collector. I picked up a 4" dia sch 40 PVC, but too large. I am thinking of lightweight structural tube, maybe steel, alum if I can find it. Weld ends closed, fittings for inlet, air breather on top, drain down below. I was thinking of two, one on each side (duh) about the size of the engine cradle tubing. The starter side would have to be removable for starter change out.

Whacha think ??
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