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Author Topic: Steel to aluminum wheels  (Read 5531 times)
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« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2011, 07:03:43 PM »

Most trucks run the 295/80/22.5  fwiw

good luck

  On another thread from a year ago you also chose the 12r for the MC5, you seem rather confident in that size. Others appear equally confident in the 11r.
 
  Let me ask the question different, which tire would you drive to Alaska?

  What width wheel do we need for each? Will the 11 fit a rim a 12 will, but not the other direction??

 

 
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Seayfam
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« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2011, 07:19:50 PM »

Quote
Let me ask the question different, which tire would you drive to Alaska?



My bus is over 40,000 lbs and it has been Alaska to Idaho many of times towing 8,000 lb trailer and all over Alaska on frost heaves and gravel.
I run Toyo 11R24.5 and never a problem. I run the tires at 120psi.

Gary
« Last Edit: April 02, 2011, 07:58:32 PM by Seayfam » Logged

Gary Seay (location Alaska)
1969 MCI MC-6 unit# 20006
8V92 turbo 740 auto
more pics and information here     "  www.my69mci-6.blogspot.com  "
luvrbus
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« Reply #17 on: April 02, 2011, 07:46:24 PM »

I don't think you can have too much tire both will work on the 8.25 wide wheel 12R would be my choice of tire for Alaska,if you are going to run 11r/22.5 or 11/ 24.5 buy the H rated tire you will be amazed at some of the tire ratings people install on a bus,then I see tires that were rated more than the wheel was rated for.
I drove my bus a lot of miles every year 12 to 20,000 miles and tires I did not skimp on JMW, and tires are sold by the pound not the size that is a sells thing lol, and I am a big Toyo fan best tire on the market if you buy the right tire


good luck
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Iceni John
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« Reply #18 on: April 02, 2011, 11:14:08 PM »

(Divide 315mm by 24,5 to get inches).
There's 25.4mm per inch, so 315mm = 12.4".   12" = almost 305mm.   Does that 10mm (just over 3/8") make any practical difference?   Maybe, maybe not.   I'm curious if my Michelin XCE 12R22.5 actually measure 12" wide, and if so is that tread width or casing width?   I'll have to measure them tomorrow  -  OK, it's just another feeble excuse to spend another day tiddling around with my bus!

John
« Last Edit: April 02, 2011, 11:16:58 PM by Iceni John » Logged

1990 Crown 2R-40N-552:  6V92TAC, DDEC II, HT740, Jake.      Hecho en Chino.     
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« Reply #19 on: April 03, 2011, 01:51:57 AM »

 OK, it's just another feeble excuse to spend another day tiddling around with my bus!

John

  This Bus thang, its not like shipwrights desease, is it?
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« Reply #20 on: April 03, 2011, 10:13:23 AM »

I couldn't  pass up commenting on the beautiful picture seayfam !!!! Cant wait to get the crown finished to take my own picture of that mountain.. Grin
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« Reply #21 on: April 03, 2011, 10:23:34 AM »

I couldn't  pass up commenting on the beautiful picture seayfam !!

 I forgot to comment, and I appologise. It seems owning a Bus is quite a big adventure in itself, as is a trip to Alaska. To do both really takes some work,and my hat is off to you.
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Bussman84
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« Reply #22 on: April 03, 2011, 07:03:03 PM »

Someone on here my have more experience with this so I too am interested in your input, a buddy of mine who has been a OTR truck driver for many years told me not to mix the steel and aluminum as they would seize together over time. Thoughts? Undecided

Billy
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TedsBUSted
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« Reply #23 on: April 03, 2011, 07:14:10 PM »

Aluminum and carbon steel aren't a particularly corrosive combination and are commonly mated.
And after all, an aluminum wheel would still mate to a steel hub/drum and be retained by steel hardware.

Even with some corrosion, it would take a tremendous amount of  "lot rot" to attack any wheel's flange surface, by then there will be plenty of worse problems and it still won't be that the two are stuck together.

Ted
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« Reply #24 on: April 03, 2011, 07:42:15 PM »

There are composite, 10 hole, spacer discs that are about .080" (I Think) thick.  These are used on HDT's between the steel drums and the aluminum rims to reduce corrosion.  I've talked to Accuride about using three of these; one between drum and inner wheel, one between inner wheel and Centramatic and the third between Centramatic and the outer wheel.  They say OK, not sure about it holding the 450 ft lb of torque but I'll try it one of these days.  Otherwise the galvanize on the Centramatics make the rims look bad where they are sandwiched together.  I got mine at Truck Pro and as I recall they are about $10 each. 

Just my opinion.....Russ
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Well no longer a bus nut, but over the years I learned a lot here and still come back to see what I can apply to the conversion of my KW T2000 for hauling my Teton fifth wheeler.
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« Reply #25 on: April 04, 2011, 05:41:35 AM »

My 5C is on 12R22.5 tires.  It helps the gearing compared to 11R22.5, it was the OEM fitment although other tires were also options per the data card on the bus.  Overkill?  Who cares?  H-rated tires like I have, the load/pressure chart doesn't go low enough for the load on the rear duals.  I run them at a fairly low pressure - 80 rear, 85 front, it helps the ride and the handling/steering (I noticed a big improvement in both when I went from the 105 psi the previous owner ran), I carry a spare, my local shop can get them for me no problem, it's still a common bus tire, so I feel like it's a good choice.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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