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demodriver
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« Reply #30 on: April 26, 2011, 08:05:24 PM » |
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ok I have a few new questions about my s&s appliances I got.
The water heater is propane and has a door (roughly 1'x1' that was on the outside of the rv. How can I use this and make it safe in my bus? Am I better off to just get a electric one?
The furnace has two vents on it as well. I assume one is exhaust and one is intake. Its propane also. Where are you guys venting these? Could I mount this in the basement and vent it towards the tag axle? It can have up to three duct runs on each side so I should be able to run them where I need them pertty easy.
The third question. The S&S has two roof top ac units. One of them works but not real well and the other wont do anything. It acts like there isnt any power. Are these worth taking the time to remove? I could get them recharged if need be for the price of the freon. My other concern is the hole that I have to cut in the roof. Do they usually use the same size hole in the roof from one brand to the next?
thanks ahead of time
Eric
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luvrbus
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« Reply #31 on: April 26, 2011, 08:14:45 PM » |
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Eric, you see a lot of buses with the hot water heater vent to the side same with the furnace you can install in the bays just vent through the door,if you are going to have a propane fridge it will need vents on top and the side and about the S&S ac if it is 30 amp service there will be a switch most are inside the closet to change the AC from front to rear
good luck
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Life is short "Drink the good wine first"
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happycamperbrat
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« Reply #32 on: April 27, 2011, 12:56:45 AM » |
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If I wanted to put a 3way refer in the center of the bus with a wall behind it, cant I just vent to the roof? The wall could have an access panel, but the venting would all be in the roof..... no?
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The Little GTO is a 102" wide and 40' long 1983 GMC RTS II and my name is Teresa in case I forgot to sign my post
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« Reply #33 on: April 27, 2011, 08:56:37 AM » |
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Roof AC's generally use the same size opening as a standard crank up roof vent, 14 inch IIRC.
Evaporation (ammonia) refrigerators need good venting to lose heat, even without running on gas. If its a gas fridge, the cabinet needs to be completely air tight to the inside of the living space and well vented to the outside. Make sure to seal all gas lines and wires coming into the back of the cabinet so nothing can enter the living space.
Im not sure I explained that properly. The perimeter of the front of the fridge mounts to the face of the cabinet. It should be sealed air tight around that perimeter, and the backside of the cabinet should be open and well vented to the outside and sealed all around to any possible leaks into the livable space.
As there have been many reports of RV refrigerator fires, you may want to take that into consideration in the construction of the cabinet.
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babell2
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« Reply #34 on: April 27, 2011, 10:16:36 AM » |
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If I wanted to put a 3way refer in the center of the bus with a wall behind it, cant I just vent to the roof? The wall could have an access panel, but the venting would all be in the roof..... no?
Yes from the bottom or side up through the roof. Need to get that heat out. Brice |
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1980 MCI-9 "The Last Resort" Located just south of Atlanta GA.
Just starting conversion. A long way to go!
The other Brice
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bevans6
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« Reply #35 on: April 27, 2011, 10:20:08 AM » |
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The idea with venting a typical RV propane fridge is air flow from the bottom to the top over the coils. There is a specific size and type of plenum that is created by the back of the cabinet you install into, and the air flow from the lower vent to the roof vent. I don't have a side access, the PO installed it with a vent through the bay and floor. It works fine, but I think a side vent would be a lot handier for maintenance purposes. One reason i will go to an electric fridge next one I buy.
Propane water heater, I would personally cut the side and install the vent to outside if I were going to use propane. You could install it in a bay but I would be a little worried about that, not quite sure why. They do throw off an awful lot of heat when they are running, and that is probably my concern - how to shed that heat inside a closed bay.
Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C converted
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
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« Reply #36 on: April 27, 2011, 10:56:46 AM » |
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One reason i will go to an electric fridge next one I buy
Brian
I dont know what ill do either. I dont have any hope in any of the new absorbtion refigerators, and I wont buy Chinese junk. Doesnt leave many options. |
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Rosie
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« Reply #37 on: April 27, 2011, 11:51:42 AM » |
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Demodriver I was the guy that talked to you at sale,Ressler did the work on the bus when Sunnycrest had it. I live in Gas City my cell is 765-206-0390,give me a call if you want to talk. Some body changed the windsheilds to 20s
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demodriver
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« Reply #38 on: April 27, 2011, 12:03:27 PM » |
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^^ Gotcha! Im sure we will run into each other sooner or later! thanks for leading me to these sites!
Resslers serviced the tri axle dump trucks that I used to drive. Im not impressed with them at the least.
I have another question for you guys who have did a conversion in IN. What is the best way to go about getting the title switched over to a rv? I havnet did anything yet other then look up a little on the bmvs website.
thanks Eric
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robertglines1
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« Reply #39 on: April 27, 2011, 01:48:07 PM » |
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Easy change of use form from dmv get officer to inspect to see toilet etc and ck serial # change title to Rv If it's over 10 yrs old cost 50$ my 98 prevost cost 50$ a year plus 12.50 for plates. only bargin in Indiana. Bob. Will walk you thru it when I see ya in two weeks or Rosie can help also if you need it sooner. or just jump in. A conservation officer did mine. Bob
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Bob@Judy 98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
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chev49
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« Reply #40 on: April 27, 2011, 05:18:34 PM » |
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just slightly less than the oregon rip off dmv prices...
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If you want someone to hold your hand, join a union.
Union with Christ is the best one...
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demodriver
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« Reply #41 on: April 27, 2011, 06:18:14 PM » |
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Thanks for the replys guys.
It looks like I will be getting a different fridge then the 3 way one. I dont like the idea of holes in my roof.
I think that I can figure out a way to do the hot water heater in the rear bay with the rest of the plumbing.
I am going to go to the dmv tomorrow and start the process of the title transfer.
Robert I am hoping to have the bus titled as a rv and plated before I make the trip down. Its the only way that I will be able to use it for the trip.
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robertglines1
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« Reply #42 on: April 27, 2011, 06:24:23 PM » |
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Set toilet in corner and cooler and maybe coleman stove and sleeping bag and your a rv. Get change of use form and go. Any Questions call. Bob
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Bob@Judy 98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
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demodriver
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« Reply #43 on: April 27, 2011, 07:17:58 PM » |
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Thats pertty much what its going to consist of. For now its going to be a real fancy tent with wheels lol
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demodriver
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« Reply #44 on: April 28, 2011, 12:24:33 PM » |
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well I got the paper work from the bmv and the local cop is being a pain. Said he dont have time to mess with it for a day or two! I started to do the "redneck remodel" today to make the bus useable for a short trip or two. I will post pics later.
Is there any value to the shelfs, tvs, and seats in these things? Its goign to go in the dumpster pertty soon if not.
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