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Author Topic: battery switches  (Read 2939 times)
MikeH
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« Reply #15 on: April 29, 2011, 08:38:36 PM »

Quote from: chev49
If you buy individual cut off switches like the green knob ones, be sure to get high quality ones.

Anybody have a picture, so those of us electrically challenged individuals would know what to look for? And, if that same individual (i.e. ME) were to walk into a store to get some of these, how would I know if I was getting a high quality one or not?

Mike
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Brassman
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« Reply #16 on: April 29, 2011, 08:52:02 PM »

Amps.
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pvcces
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« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2011, 09:18:33 PM »

I haven't had any luck with the WalMart ones, either. They don't last.

Tom Caffrey
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Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
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eagle19952
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« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2011, 09:39:45 PM »

Check Summit Racing,they have a 350 amp, 500 amp surge battery disconnect switch for under $15.
Caterpillar uses a Cole Hersee made switch.
NASCAR/NHRA probably has more stringent requirements than Wal-Mart.



http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Battery-Disconnect-Switches/?keyword=battery+disconnect+switches&page=3

Keep looking they even have key fob remote control disconnects.....for those of us who want not to walk......
« Last Edit: April 29, 2011, 09:55:19 PM by eagle19952 » Logged
wal1809
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« Reply #19 on: April 30, 2011, 03:43:46 AM »

I wish I could have been able to get the camera back in there.  You can see what I am talking about but it is difficult.   The cables from each battery go to the side with the buss bar and the main cable going to the engine is hooked to the buss bar as well.  None of thr cables are hooked to the posts opposite of the bar.  I think they did that to bypass the switches.

On the outside looking in the face plate with the part of the switch, where you would reach to turn the batteries off and on, is rusted.  I am thinking about taking it out.  Replicating it with diamond tread and replacing the switches with new. 
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Len Silva
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« Reply #20 on: April 30, 2011, 06:30:27 AM »

Good quality switches are not cheap.  One of the best is Cole-Hersee.  You will only need to buy it once.
http://www.levineautoparts.com/cole-hersee-colehersee-75907-battery-disconnect-switch.html
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« Reply #21 on: April 30, 2011, 04:17:25 PM »

I think I've had two or three of them fail out of about 25 in use. There is no doubt that bus vibration is hard on them but so far I have no complaints.

I got most of them from JC Whitney before WM started carrying them.

I wish I knew of a way to tell which are high quality and which are not, but I don't. You sure can't go by price!!

The big advantage to these is you only have to screw the knob in or out. I don't like the ones that detach or the blade ones that take up so much space.

To each his own!
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PD4107-152
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robertglines1
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« Reply #22 on: April 30, 2011, 05:52:06 PM »

This might not be a quality answer for you switch question and will cost more. Cat is the leader in the construction industry as far as quality.The starting needs of the construction dozers etc I'm sure exceed the needs of our Detroit's etc. that said the master switch shut off for them either keyed or just twist should be adequate for our needs. Just a observation from a retired heavy equipment owner.   Bob
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Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
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« Reply #23 on: April 30, 2011, 09:16:34 PM »

I think Len sourced it pretty good. Don't have to look further for a switch.
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« Reply #24 on: May 01, 2011, 07:34:34 AM »

  The cole hersee switch 75907 Lin posted is rated up to 2000 amps up to 30 seconds, 300 amps continuous and fits a panel up to 1/4 inch thick. Thats a lot of switch for the money. There is another basically identical switch, the 75908, that will fit a panel up to 3/4 inch thick.

  Wal, I think someone did what you are surmising, they bypassed the disconnects by connecting the batteries directly to the main bus bar. The bus is a good idea if you have seperate banks and have a bad battery bank, then you can take that bank offline and still have power to the main bus. If you can isolate the switches away from the batteries, like the other side of a bulkhead, and weather proof the area, they wont get so corroded. And in the unlikely event something goes wrong, having the switches accessable away from the battery compartment may allow you to access them even if the batteries are burning.
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« Reply #25 on: May 01, 2011, 03:37:29 PM »

Bob and Art,

What are the prices of these two switches?

Separate battery switches allow you to isolate or combine batteries in any way you choose, banks or no banks. It is especially good when doing maintenance.

It is the ultimate solution electrically but is a little convenient if you have a bunch of batteries. I only have four in one bus and three in the other.

My objection to keyed remote master switches is they usually require more heavy cable runs, our buses have too many of these already.

The green knob ones clamp directly to the battery post and require no extra cables of any kind. Stone simple.

I've found no Gp 31s at WM either but got mine at Sam's. On my 4104 I have two 31's for starters and two deep cycle for house. My 4104 has an 8D for house but I'm going to change that for two 31s.
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robertglines1
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« Reply #26 on: May 01, 2011, 05:33:30 PM »

My account price is $54 for keyed 3000amp surge for 30sec. from cat: the Cole hersee I do not have a price on. List on the cat is $98. is it worth it? I never replaced one except for one that was vandalized.  As far as the ones that go on the batteries I have no experience with them so I cannot comment on them good or bad  Bob
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Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
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« Reply #27 on: May 01, 2011, 06:17:08 PM »

Bob and Art,

What are the prices of these two switches?

  I thought I saw $68?
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