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Author Topic: Window Removal  (Read 660 times)
Tikvah
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« on: May 04, 2011, 04:09:36 AM »

I'm getting close to time to remove a few windows in my MCI 120A3  Then some aluminum to skin the spaces (.080  6061-T6 Huh)
Any advice?
My inner self wants to just tear into it and learn, but my more mature self is telling me to ask advice from those whom have already done this.   (I don't know if I'm hearing voices or if that's my wife talking Grin )

Anyway, I was holding a window up with one hand and looking at the hinge point and couldn't see any fastners.  I should try again in better light with my glasses on.  But, what am I looking for?  I can't imagine this is a big deal.
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
rampeyboy
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2011, 04:20:53 AM »

I used some lesser grade of aluminum when I closed in the rear window of my Scenic. Also, it was much thinner. So far, no wrinkles at all, but the piece I put in is curved.. so that may have prevented any wrinkling. Any particular reason for using 6061 T6? Good luck with your project.
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Boyce Rampey
Columbia, SC
Scenicruiser 227
bevans6
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2011, 04:34:10 AM »

6061-T6 is what many consider a structural aluminium.  It is quite stiff, it is work hardened and heat treated to achieve the T-6 condition.  You have to be quite careful about forming or bending it, there are rules about minimum bend radius and bending with the grain, or across the grain of the sheet.  It is very weldable, and can be annealed to the T-0 condition by heating to around 800 degrees, which makes it dead soft and very form-able.  It then age-hardens back to a T-4 condition in about 4 weeks.  If you don't  need to put any tight bends in it, and if you have the ability to cut it to shape, I think it is a good choice for siding.  A little overkill, a little pricey, but 6061-T6 has the advantage of being very easily available compared to other alloys that would also be good choices.  If you don't have a big shear to cut it, I would use fine-toothed carbide or HSS woodworking blades in a table saw, band saw, or circular saw.  Watch out for kick-back, and wear ear protection - cutting that stuff on a table saw is incredibly loud!  De-burr all edges and all drilled holes, or cracks will form.  I use a simple countersink in a Tee handle tap chuck to de-burr drilled holes for rivets and such.

On my MC-5C the window hinge pins have circlips at each end.  Remove a circlip and drive the pin out with an undersize punch.  I have heard that on some newer buses you lift the window up to an angle and lift it off the hinge.  Maybe see if those ideas work for you.

Brian
« Last Edit: May 04, 2011, 04:36:26 AM by bevans6 » Logged

1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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Tikvah
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2011, 04:57:22 AM »

Keep in my that my brain is full of assumptions.   But, I assume that I can have the aluminum cut to size.  I won't have to make ANY bends or make ANY cuts..... I Hope!
I will, however, need to drill for each rivit.  The 6061 choice was the suggestion of my local supplier.  But it seemed reasonable to me.  The cost was actually reasonable.

Any more thougts on the window removal?
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
Highway Yacht
*****Jimmy*****
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« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2011, 12:57:05 PM »

On my MC-9.. The hinge screws are located behind the drip rail.. I had to remove the drip rail/gutter to remove the windows.. I think there were either 4 or 6 screws per hinge that had to be removed in order for the windows to come out..

Jimmy
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1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
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