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Author Topic: Stop me before I do something really stupid  (Read 3412 times)
Tikvah
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« on: June 09, 2011, 12:59:15 PM »

I'm making my final decisions for the material for the skin of my coach.  I think I'm going with 16 ga cold roll steel.  I'll be skinning from the bottom of the window line to the roof, tucking the top and bottom edge behind the existing trim strips.
So, I went to my local metal supply and he offered me a deal on some Aluminum Diamond Plate.  His suggestion is to use the diamond plate from the top of the baggage doors to the drip rail above the windows.  I said that would be ridiculous and expensive. 
Well, maybe ridiculous, but when you consider that it would never be painted, and always shinny, it doesn't seem so expensive.  Incredibly cool?  Well, that's a matter of opinion. 
So, I came home with a sample section, set it on top of the trim above the baggage bays... and well, not such a ridiculous idea.   It certainly would be different.  My wife said the shine would cause accidents. 

What do you guys think?  Feel free to weigh in with opinions, that's what I'm asking for. 
My first thought is that it could look too commercial and not "first class".  However, that might not be true.  They're using that stuff for everything now days, and it looks pretty sharp.

Thoughts?  Other suggestions?
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
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Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
bevans6
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« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2011, 01:05:26 PM »

Well, if you do that the bus won't look like every other RV out there!  I wouldn't use that, but then I wouldn't use cold rolled steel either.  I would use Alumalite sign material.  I have a sheet of  that in a shop, it would be perfect.  I think gumpy used it on his bus.

http://www.sterlingpromotions.ca/Alumalite_Signboard.html

The checker plate aluminium comes in a ton of thicknesses, finishes, etc.  I thought you were afraid of corrosion with aluminium, anyway?

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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Tikvah
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« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2011, 01:09:37 PM »

I'm assuming that the Alumalite/signboard material is out of my price range.
Yes, you're right.  I was steering away from aluminum because of the corrosion, but my biggest fear with aluminum is the warping from heat.  I just don't have a facility where I can evenly heat huge sheets of aluminum. 

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
demodriver
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« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2011, 02:09:12 PM »

Mearly my opinion. I wouldnt do it. It would be to much.
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Tikvah
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« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2011, 02:57:34 PM »

The nice thing about opinions is we all have one, and no matter how many we give away... we still have one.
So, bring them on.... give me your opinion - it won't cost you anything.
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
belfert
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« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2011, 03:32:08 PM »

I used something similar to the Alumalite.  It is the same stuff Gumpy used.  It cost me about $400 to cover the windows on the entire bus.  The material is thin aluminum on each side with a plastic core.  It won't get wavy since it is not solid aluminum.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
luvrbus
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« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2011, 03:48:15 PM »

 Alumalite waves it is good for up to around 120 degrees which is not much with sun hitting it here in AZ they use Alucobond it stands more heat up to 175 degrees

good luck
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belfert
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« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2011, 04:11:18 PM »

What I actually used is Alucobond.  No issues with waves after five years.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Scott Bennett
Scott & Heather MCI-9
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« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2011, 04:16:12 PM »

FWIW, We used aluminum. Your original coach skin from the stainless up to the windows is aluminum. It corrodes a bit, but not in such a major way that your sides will fall off next year  Shocked Truth be told, since we didn't want super wavy sides, we went with 1/8" think aluminum. Solid, thick, and yes, a bit pricey and a pain to pre-drill every hole for the rivets...but it looks good. Cost around $1000. Here's a pic with the sheets actually overlapping each other:


« Last Edit: August 11, 2011, 08:10:41 AM by Nick Badame Refrig. Co. » Logged

Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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luvrbus
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« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2011, 04:26:50 PM »

Looks good but me I could not stand to have all those rivets I am a smooth sides one piece no waves type guy lol I did have some hand painted rivets to blend the aluminum siding into the paint job

good luck
« Last Edit: June 09, 2011, 04:34:57 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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Tikvah
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« Reply #10 on: June 09, 2011, 06:21:04 PM »

I live about a million miles from civilization.  Where would I find Alucobond?
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
luvrbus
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« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2011, 06:34:20 PM »

I would do some serious research before using a product like Alucobond or any other of the laminate type aluminum for siding the product is made mostly for signs and signs don't move 

good luck
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flynbanjo
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« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2011, 06:42:41 PM »

I did the side of my bus with aluminum.  It really wasn't that hard to stretch the material.  I used a propane weed torch that I bought from northern tool to heat the aluminum to 200 degrees.  The corrosion issue should only be a problem where the steel structure meets the aluminum.  I used 10 mil plastic tape to insulate the steel from the aluminum.  So far(5 years) no problems.  
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Steven
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buddydawg
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« Reply #13 on: June 10, 2011, 04:03:27 AM »

I used .125 aluminum to skin over the few windows I had removed.  It is a little heavy but easy to work with.  I also used a sealant/adhesive on all metal to metal contact wheter it be to steel or aluminum.  Worked great for me.
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Brandon Stewart - Martinez, GA
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« Reply #14 on: June 10, 2011, 05:39:57 AM »

Hi Tikvah,  I used 16ga steel. I thought it worked out great. take care.
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