Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
December 20, 2014, 07:02:57 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an Online Subscription: It takes up much less space in your bus.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Webasto  (Read 1237 times)
Cary and Don
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 674




Ignore
« on: June 09, 2011, 07:37:03 PM »

We know nothing about a Webasto.  The previous owner had this bus for 15 years and never ran the Webasto.  We are pretty sure that this is the truth.  They never used the jacks either. Not much need for heat in Palm Springs.  So it isn't running.  It's a 2010.  The engine coolant pumps up to it, but it doesn't pass the Webasto unit into the heater lines.  Pull the  knob on and it starts up,  feels like the pump is moving,  still no water moving, and it doesn't light up and after a minute the light on the knob goes out and it does a shut down.  We think there is something real simple going on here.  We just don't know what.  It is spotless inside the box.  Looks brand new.

1973 05 Eagle
GMC 4107
Neoplan AN340
Logged

1973 05 Eagle
Neoplan AN340
hargreaves
1987 MCI 102A3
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 299





Ignore
« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2011, 09:13:13 PM »

 If you can find the fuse that powers the Wabasto , turn the unit on and before it shuts itself down pull out the fuse. This will reset the controller and erase all the codes. Put the fuse back in and try starting again.

Gerry
Logged

now as of Feb 2012 series 50 B400  . Sunshine Coast British Columbia
Sean
Geek.
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2553


'85 Neoplan Spaceliner "Odyssey"


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2011, 07:23:42 AM »

We know nothing about a Webasto ... 2010.  The engine coolant pumps up to it, but it doesn't pass the Webasto unit into the heater lines.  Pull the  knob on and it starts up,  feels like the pump is moving,  still no water moving,


Unless the pump impeller is frozen or the boiler itself is clogged, there is nothing about this setup that should keep coolant pumped from somewhere else, such as the engine pump, from flowing.  I would look for another shutoff valve somewhere in the line that is in the closed position.  We have two such valves in our system, and with either closed, this would be the symptom.

Quote
and it doesn't light up and after a minute the light on the knob goes out and it does a shut down.  We think there is something real simple going on here.  We just don't know what. 

There are as many ways to plumb and wire a Webasto as there are posters on this board.  So without a diagram of how your unit has been wired it is almost impossible to diagnose the problem remotely like this.  Also, these units must be serviced periodically, even if they are never run.  In fact, NOT running them is a sure way to get them to fail  So you really want to take the whole thing apart and check the flame chamber, the nozzle, the flame sensor, and both thermostats.  Instructions are in the DBW-2010 manual, available in PDF form in many places on the 'net.

You most certainly do not want the burner to light if the coolant is not flowing first.  So you need to correct the coolant flow issue before you move on to diagnosing the failure to ignite.

When you try to start the unit do you hear the blower start?

If you can find the fuse that powers the Wabasto , turn the unit on and before it shuts itself down pull out the fuse. This will reset the controller and erase all the codes. Put the fuse back in and try starting again.

Umm, there are no "codes" stored in a DBW-2010.  The little control box contains nothing but electromechanical relays and a handful of discreet semiconductors.  No other "electronics" at all, and certainly no code memory.

Moreover, it is highly inadvisable to interrupt main power to the unit at any time in the cycle.  Killing the blower before the cool-down cycle finishes will almost certainly blow the thermal protector, and might do much more serious damage.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
Logged

Full-timing in a 1985 Neoplan Spaceliner since 2004.
Our blog: http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
gus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3546





Ignore
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2011, 03:01:37 PM »

I bought a used Model X45, 45,000 btu 12v, Proheat from Bruce Knee for $400 a few months ago and after I got it I arrived at the conclusion I really have no need for it so it is still in the box.

My water heating setup has a coil from the engine cooling system going through the 10 gl water heater which also has an electric coil, no LP.

I also have an electric block heater for the engine. So, I said to myself, what do you need a Proheat for? I had no positive answer! Should have thought of that before I bought it!!

Every heating need I have can be solved by plugging into shore power or running the generator.

Anyone want a good used Proheat for $400 + shipping?
Logged

PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
Cary and Don
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 674




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2011, 06:07:55 PM »

We are making progress.  The water lines were empty.  Water helped.  Ran the fuel lines into a can and the unit fired right up.  It seems that the water is circulating about half way down the line.  The unit is mounted in the front.  We have four heaters and want to add a hot water heater.  If we take the return line loose from the unit the water does pump out.  Hooked up the heat seems to go about half way.

After reading some of the earlier posts, it seems that there is an opinion that the pump in the 2010 isn't strong enough to go the distance we have.  Is this the case?  How do we remedy the problem?

Don and Cary
1973 05 Eagle
GMC 4107
Neoplan AN340
Logged

1973 05 Eagle
Neoplan AN340
Cary and Don
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 674




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2011, 06:14:18 PM »

Forgot.  It is using the engine surge tank.  Would giving it a separate surge tank make it work better?

1973 05 Eagle
GMC4107
Neoplan AN340
Logged

1973 05 Eagle
Neoplan AN340
luvrbus
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 13127




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2011, 07:05:59 PM »

Just keep in mind with unit tied to the surge tank it won't do anything till the water temp falls below 140 degrees in the tank you should be able to pull the return line at the tank to remove the air then it will work you need to get all the air out for those little pumps to work.
Check the front heater and defroster 99% of Eagles the Webasto is tied in to it and will have a valve either electric or manual and you should have bleeder valves there also

good luck
« Last Edit: June 10, 2011, 07:14:21 PM by luvrbus » Logged

Life is short drink the good wine first
Cary and Don
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 674




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: June 10, 2011, 07:33:11 PM »

The front heater and defroster have been removed.  The water lines were still there and it looked like a spider web.  We removed all the old lines that didn't go to anything anymore.  There were  two Ts one Y and a two way valve.  The engine coolant would come up, run through all these lines and bypass the Webasto.  Probably fifteen feet of hose doing nothing.

Don and Cary
1973 05 Eagle
GMC 4107
Neoplan AN340
Logged

1973 05 Eagle
Neoplan AN340
Sean
Geek.
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2553


'85 Neoplan Spaceliner "Odyssey"


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2011, 06:33:00 AM »

As long as you are removing hose, I recommend you separate the house hydronic system from the engine cooling system, then have them meet in a heat exchanger.  It requires an additional pump to get engine pre-heat, but there are many benefits, as I described in this post:
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=12123.msg127123#msg127123

Whichever way you go, as Clifford says, you will need to "bleed" all the air out of the system.  The pump will either not work or will be destroyed (depending on type) if a slug of air gets to it.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
Logged

Full-timing in a 1985 Neoplan Spaceliner since 2004.
Our blog: http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
edroelle
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 351


1998 Royale Prevost




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2011, 07:24:29 AM »

Webasto recommends that the heater water lines (total supply and return) be less than about 110' maximum.    The distance adds up quickly.   If longer, you need to add a larger or more pumps in parallel.

As Sean said, maintenance is important.   Nozzles are suppose to be changed yearly.   Bearings should be changed every 4 years or so.

Ed Roelle
Flint, MI
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!