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Author Topic: Found my oil leak - now how to fix? - Added Photo  (Read 5118 times)
belfert
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« on: October 09, 2006, 03:07:39 PM »

I found the oil leak on my Series 60.  It is leaking oil like crazy right above and between the two oil filters.  It looks like this may be the oil cooler.

Is this something I should even think about tackling myself or is it time for a trip to the Detroit dealer to get it fixed? 

The good news is the oil pressure seems to be fine after adding two quarts of oil.  I let it idle at 1000 RPM while looking for the leak and the oil pressure was back up to 50 PSI where it should be.

Brian Elfert
« Last Edit: October 12, 2006, 01:05:37 PM by belfert » Logged
Ross
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« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2006, 04:52:31 PM »

If it was me, I'd start taking things apart in the vacinity of the leak until I found the problem, but if your not comfortable doing mechanical type work on the bus (and it doesn't sound like you are), you should take it to a mechanic.

Ross

PS....If you are not comfortable doing repairs, you should get comfortable.  These things can get expensive if you have to take it to a mechanic every time it makes a new noise.
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NJT5047
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« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2006, 06:39:01 PM »

Brian, If you know how to use a torque wrench, and have a service manual to get the details and torque specs, that oughta be something you can repair.   You may find a blown "O" ring...as has already been suggested.  Cannot believe the oil filter adaptor is cracked...unless old wreck damage?
As Ross says, you gotta learn to do some of the engine work.   That thing will become soooo expensive to farm out!  Wink
If you don't have service manuals on both the engine and the bus chassis, time to get'em.  A parts manual is a nice touch too...useful to visualize the organization of assemblies. 
If you're not comfortable with working on the engine, do you have any "mechanic" friends?   
Obviously, the filter adaptor has got to be installed per the manual...any failure of the oil filters and related components could get expensive...same's true of the drain plug in the oil pan!  Actually, the DDEC won't let you run it but so low...that's a "shutdown" code.
Have you ruled out the oil filters?  Have you pulled the oil filters off to check for a blown oil filter "O" ring?  If one of the filter "O" rings is damaged, the damage should be visible. 
Good luck, JR 
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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
87 MC9, 6V92TA DDEC, HT748R ATEC

"Every government interference in the economy consists of giving an unearned benefit, extorted by force, to some men at the expense of others.”

Ayn Rand
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« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2006, 07:28:57 PM »

B,

Remember that the oil cooler is part of the engine cooling system. If you plan on taking it apart you will
need to drain the coolant into a drum so that it can be reused after the repairs.

The leak could just be a cracked oil filter fitting, Maybe someone had trouble getting a filter off and applied
way too much leverage while twisting the oil filter. Could have cracked the casting or fittings.

I have seen too many new filters installed using wrenches that were clearly marked " Hand Tighten ONLY "

Some Gorilla truck mechanic might have weakened the casting by a heavy hand...

Glad you found that much, Things are looking much better now... Roll Eyes
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« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2006, 07:58:19 PM »

One additional comment on draining the coolant...if you have valves to block off the heater lines going to the front of the bus, be sure and close them off before draining the coolant.  
You'll be draining 25 or 30 gallons otherwise..or maybe more.   Not sure about a Dina, but I would assume most bus powerplants have some way to isolate the heater cores and related plumbing from the engine.
Hope you don't have to drain the coolant.  I had a very bad experience today with a block heater install.  Actually, that was an attempted block heater install.  Got a little problem with hazmat runoff now.   Hey...we gotta learn the hard way sometimes! Bill says you can't do it that way...even my wife said ain't gonna work....she's laughing!  I don't care for that.   Wink
You know this red antifreeze don't taste as bad as the green stuff.    Cool
JR
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JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
87 MC9, 6V92TA DDEC, HT748R ATEC

"Every government interference in the economy consists of giving an unearned benefit, extorted by force, to some men at the expense of others.”

Ayn Rand
Busted Knuckle
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« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2006, 08:29:41 PM »

You know this red antifreeze don't taste as bad as the green stuff.    Cool
JR

Has less calories too! BK  Grin

Oh on a side note JR, we usually put a clean barrell in the pit to drain the coolant into so we can reuse it! (not that we are worried about hazmat out in the boonies like we are!) Oh yeah, I also got probably 20 or so gallons of clean red stuff that we took out of the 102A3 when we changed engines and dad wanted to change over so both buses used the same ol green stuff! If ya need some! BK Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
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belfert
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« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2006, 04:53:43 AM »

The oil filters themselves are not leaking.  It is leaking down the block between and behind the two oil filters.  I talked to the service guy at the Detroit dealer and he figured it is probably the oil filter adapter leaking based on my description.  It normally takes 5 to 6 hours on a truck and maybe a bit more on a bus.

I do have a mechanic friend who might be able to help, but he works 12 hour shift Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and I work during the week 7:00 to 3:00 so there isn't much time for us to get together with the sun setting so early now.

I will be ordering service and parts manuals today.

Brian Elfert
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Ace
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« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2006, 05:35:01 AM »

Brian, any way to take a picture of the area in question and post it so we can see exactly what it is?

That would probably help us decipher your problem. If you don't have a digital camera, buy yourself a cheap one. It might be better investment at this time over the manuals. With a picture for all to see, would mean MANY heads trying to help over just ONE looking thru a manual!  Grin

Ace
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belfert
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« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2006, 07:19:53 AM »

Brian, any way to take a picture of the area in question and post it so we can see exactly what it is?

That would probably help us decipher your problem. If you don't have a digital camera, buy yourself a cheap one. It might be better investment at this time over the manuals. With a picture for all to see, would mean MANY heads trying to help over just ONE looking thru a manual!  Grin

I do have a digital camera and will take a picture this evening if I remember. 

I called the local Detroit dealer and got the part numbers for the service and parts books, but they don't stock them!  If I have to have them shipped in, I might as well get them from someone on Ebay or such for a lot less money.

Brian Elfert
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Hartley
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« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2006, 09:18:11 AM »

Brian,

I just knew that once you were "bitten" by the "Bus" Bug you couldn't walk away clean...

As with most of us it stopped being a hobby and turned into an affliction or obsession depending on the point
of view.
 
The challenges are many but the excitement of doing something by yourself that 5 years ago would wouldn't
even consider possible is just too much to pass up.

I just re-cored a radiator in my MC9 by myself, Big job and lots of potential for mistakes but it worked and I feel
much better now about tackling other stuff that I have never done before.

These things come in stages, It goes from " Oh God it's broke, what am I going to do? " to " Now wait maybe it's not broke that bad" then to " Then stepping back and thinking, going off somewhere to do other stuff and coming back " You start thinking " This isn't impossible or even remotely improbably, Just a dirty job that takes time. But when you get done and everything is working right again, What can I say but the pride in yourself is priceless.

Your bus is your buddy... Even one with a bad attitude can be retrained... There's a lifeforce that you give to your bus and it will reward you for the long term, Maybe be a little cranky at times but that's normal.....

Good Luck....

Dave....
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belfert
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« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2006, 10:13:50 AM »

I still haven't decided if I really want to tackle this myself.  The service manual and parts manual from a Detroit dealer will cost nearly $300 plus I already know I would need some new tools.  It would cost $700 to $800 to get fixed professionally.  If I buy the manuals, I will have them for next time and that is certainly a good thing.

I would tackle it myself for sure if it wasn't fall with the cold temps and limited daylight.  I also want to take my bus to BK's rally at the end of the month and want to get my freshwater plumbing done before then.

Brian Elfert
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belfert
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« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2006, 08:53:30 PM »

Well, I forgot to take a picture of my oil leak before it got dark.

I ended up ordering a service manual and parts catalog from someone on Ebay.  It only me $66 instead of $300 through a Detroit dealer that had them in stock.

Brian Elfert
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belfert
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« Reply #12 on: October 12, 2006, 01:07:12 PM »

Here is a photo of the leak.  The arrow is not quite in the right spot.  It should be slightly more to the right.  It is leaking down the block between and above the two filters.
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Ace
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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2006, 01:30:40 PM »

Brian have you already cleaned that area or is that it?

Ace
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belfert
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2006, 01:34:58 PM »

Brian have you already cleaned that area or is that it?

For some reason in the photo, you can't really see the oil leak.  When I start the engine, oil is clearly flowing down the block between the two filters.  I have not cleaned the engine since I last ran it.

I'll see if I can't take another photo with the engine running or something.

Brian Elfert
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