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Author Topic: Electrical Breaker Panels  (Read 2230 times)
TomC
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« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2011, 06:14:19 AM »

Using many circuit breakers-at least I like to have more or less a separate circuit breaker for each appliance and plug.  Much the same as having a dedicated pipe (hose) for each plumbing appliance with separate ball valve to cut that appliance off if you have problems with it-this so you can continue your trip-but just without that particular appliance if you have a failure.  Wiring or plumbing a motorhome is just not the same as a house.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2011, 12:15:35 PM »

Using many circuit breakers-at least I like to have more or less a separate circuit breaker for each appliance and plug.  Much the same as having a dedicated pipe (hose) for each plumbing appliance with separate ball valve to cut that appliance off if you have problems with it-this so you can continue your trip-but just without that particular appliance if you have a failure.  Wiring or plumbing a motorhome is just not the same as a house.  Good Luck, TomC

I understand the number of possible curcuits needed for appliances and outlets, etc but my question was referring to his statement about his "Main" panel with 20 circuits feeding a Sub Panel with 16 more circuits. If you look at the pic chris4905 posted, It appears his Main Panel has ONE breaker which feeds his Sub Panel with multiple breakers that feeds his appliances and outlets, etc.. The way chris4905 explained it is how in my mind I thought it went. 

Shorepower--->Main Panel---->Sub Panel--->Outlets & Appliances

Jimmy
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Len Silva
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« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2011, 12:28:20 PM »

The reason for two sets of distribution breaker panels, whether in a main/sub or sub/sub configuration is to separate the inverter powered circuits from the rest.
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Uglydog56
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« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2011, 12:54:18 PM »

Well, my electrical plan has stuff pretty well divided up, and I have 10 ckts off the main panel (powered by shore power / genny) and 6 ckts off the inverter (which is what the subpanel is for).  Anything with less circuits only had like 2 space / 4 ckt.  And room to grow is always good.  The main line breaker is in the main box, and I'm putting a 30A or so bkr in the main box that branches off to the subpanel via inverter passthrough.

My schematic is:

shorepower----ats----main-----outlets
                       I         I
genny-----------I         I------inverter------outlets
                                               I
          solar array---batt bank----I
                                   I
       bus alt-----------isolator--------start batt's

Does this make any sense?

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Rick A. Cone
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« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2011, 01:05:08 PM »

Len is right about inverter circuits being on a separate panel, at least in my case.  I used two 8 space panels.  One is for generator/shore loads and the other is for inverter loads.  I am actually running out of space in the shore panel and I have started to install the breakers that have two circuits in one space.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2011, 03:22:01 PM »

Well, my electrical plan has stuff pretty well divided up, and I have 10 ckts off the main panel (powered by shore power / genny) and 6 ckts off the inverter (which is what the subpanel is for).  Anything with less circuits only had like 2 space / 4 ckt.  And room to grow is always good.  The main line breaker is in the main box, and I'm putting a 30A or so bkr in the main box that branches off to the subpanel via inverter passthrough.

My schematic is:

shorepower----ats----main-----outlets
                       I         I
genny-----------I         I------inverter------outlets
                                               I
          solar array---batt bank----I
                                   I
       bus alt-----------isolator--------start batt's

Does this make any sense?



Yes..It makes perfect sense now.. I was just thinking too simple since my setup will only be using shorepower at this point. Thanks for explaining it..
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1979 MC-9  8V71-Turbo / HT740             * www.MciBusTalk.com *
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ArtGill
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« Reply #21 on: September 25, 2011, 06:38:57 AM »

Jimmy,

Many years ago I visited RV salvage yard in Liberty, NC.  They had a barn full of stuff including electrical.  I'm not sure were Locast is in relationship to Liberty, both are way West of me.  The name is National Recovery Service, 336-622-7285.  If you find out something about them, please post.

Art
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Art & Cheryll Gill
Morehead City, NC
1989 Eagle Model 20 NJT, 6v92ta
chris4905
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« Reply #22 on: September 25, 2011, 07:40:03 AM »

Joe,

I believe your referring to the inverter.  Looks like plastic in the picture, but actually it's metal.
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Chris & Cheryl Christensen
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« Reply #23 on: September 25, 2011, 09:22:08 AM »

From what I have read on other sites.. it appears that a 50 amp pedestal is wired for 240 volts. Meaning that if you separate the 2 hot wires in your Bus's electrical panel, that you'll actually have access to 100 amps at 120 volts.. Is that right?? and if so, can you use all 100 amps in your bus by wiring it that way?

Jimmy
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belfert
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« Reply #24 on: September 25, 2011, 09:29:04 AM »

From what I have read on other sites.. it appears that a 50 amp pedestal is wired for 240 volts. Meaning that if you separate the 2 hot wires in your Bus's electrical panel, that you'll actually have access to 100 amps at 120 volts.. Is that right?? and if so, can you use all 100 amps in your bus by wiring it that way?

Correct.  I can't quite imagine using all 100 amps at 120 volts unless you have five rooftops or something.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #25 on: September 25, 2011, 10:32:16 AM »

Quote
Correct.  I can't quite imagine using all 100 amps at 120 volts unless you have five rooftops or something.

Neither can I... but I just wanted to make sure I was understanding it correctly.. Thanks..

Jimmy
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Len Silva
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« Reply #26 on: September 25, 2011, 11:51:30 AM »

I agree with a couple of previous posters.  I prefer the Square-D type QO panels (NOT Homeline) over most other brands. Well made and reliable.
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flynbanjo
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« Reply #27 on: September 25, 2011, 07:22:25 PM »

For what it is worth, I bought my IOTA breaker boxes from Mastertech inc.

www.mastertech-inc.com or 800-848-0558
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Steven
81 MCI MC9
Hudson, Florida
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