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Author Topic: I'm sure I bought the wrong bus  (Read 4083 times)
Bus Busted
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1984 Eagle 10, 1986 MCI 102A3




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« on: September 25, 2011, 11:48:20 PM »

   I'm sure I'm not the only one who found these forums "after" buying your first bus. Here is where I stand for my first post. I have a 1986 MCI 102A3 6V92 Turbo still titled as a bus that came from Greyhound by way of a church that sold it after not being able to fix it. It tried to run, but would not idle. During the buy test we got it running using a 24v jump. It smoked, but smelled like starting oils used to try and get it going. Had my regular mechanic look at it with me (he had worked on cars & small truck diesel). We figured the scrap value to be around $2500 and I was able to get the price down from $7500 to $5500. I knew it was a risk, but figured it left me a lot of room for repair cost before reaching the $30,000 to $100,000 that I thought this kinda bus would cost me. So I went for it, towing cost another $605. so I'm in $6,105. That was before the tow ended. After lowering the bus to the ground it sat for a min then rolled forward into the wrecker cracking the pass front windshield and the entry door window (door open at the time). He said find out about the cost of the glass and we would talk. He said without air it shouldn't have moved. I thought it should have been blocked being an unknown condition. Next day I tested the batt and found one dropping from 12v to 9v while engine cranked slowly (good battery went from 13.5 to 11v) bought two new ones so I could start off on good footing. With much smoke it cranked and would stay running with a little help from my foot. My tech said to run it for 15min at a time to clean it out and let it recover from sitting so long (that this short of time would keep it from overheating if there were other small troubles he said). It logged 1 1/2 hrs a day 15-25 min @ a time. After 2 days it would idle somewhat smooth, only smoke a little, and start as soon as you hit the switch. I took block temp and it stayed warm, but didn't get hot so we upped the time to 30-45 min running while checking the block temp. I even drove it to the end of my 1/4 mile drive to turn it around so I could back it close to the house for 110 power. During this time I was checking fluid levels and waiting the week and 1/2 when my tech could come over and give it a good going over. I found the towing/breaking issue to be the time it takes to bleed off the air (he had not hit the air brake button and it took a while to air down).

   Now the bad news... Sometimes it pumps up to 120psi and sometimes it likes 70psi better. Sometimes it takes a while to air down, 40min, and sometimes it's down in 10min. Found air coming from the break button and compressor sometimes. Found it smoking a lot under load (in gear or rev'ing it up a little). Found that the filler I was using for coolant was not hooked to the cooling sys. I went to the upper fill point with a hose and found the water soon pouring out the pass weep hose (slobber hose?). Then when I went to hit start it was froze, I'm guessing water now in the cylinder that can't be compressed. That was 3 days ago and the water is still in there. The oil level is coming up a little from the water getting past the rings, but not that much (a good thing I guess, the rings are holding water). I already know I'm looking at a head rebuild at the least. Maybe an engine rebuild or replacement. Have been told other engine items should be looked at too like the blower parts. During this time I hit the internet very hard. Found Greyhounds are patched together just enough to keep them running. Looked closer and found a lot of that on this bus. Mostly on side doors and seats ect. Found it was from Texas Greyhound by the removed stickers that left fading in the paint. I think it is a sound bus over all, but I'm new to this. It seems that if I get the engine fixed and the compressor rebuilt, I will at least know these things should last a while. Same with other repairs that will be next in line. I am from the Indianapolis area and am the only bus owner I know. Have had school buses in the past, but nothing this big. Have done a lot of car repair in my 20's including engine rebuilds, but I'm 50 now and this engine is diesel and a heavy one at that (needing to be slid on rails and not "pulled"). I repair hospital and lab equip, so I can do elect trouble shooting and repair. Have never owned a diesel, but have now watched many YouTube vids showing me the magic of 2 stroke operation. While waiting to decide this buses fate I am pulling the seats and above storage and if I keep it I plan to make it an RV. I had hopes of running up to Elkhart IN and getting a few deals since the economy has been hard up there. I have been calling the local coach companies and finding out who did their work. My tech/mechanic thinks that he can do a head swap or rebuild at good hourly rates. I have already started trouble shooting finding a loose relay keeping the driver's starting switch from working. I fixed the headlights, the 12v tap was hooked to 24v. And so on.

   Here's what I know I need help with... What would you do in my shoes (in for a penny in for a pound?). Do I have any Indiana friends that might want to lend a knowing eye in order to better advise? Anyone know the best place in this area to get engine repaired or buy a rebuilt? Where do I get a good price on the engine manual? I have the free downloaded "MC-9 Crusader II Maintenance Manual January 1989" and the "MC-9 Operator's Manual". I saw the engine manual somewhere for around $400, but hate to buy from E-bay for less than $400 and get what I already have downloaded. Should I replace the upper door window with after market at this time? Can I do the windshield myself and should I replace the seal at the same time? I'm also thinking that instead of the tow driver covering the price of cracked glass, maybe I should take it out in trade having him tow it to a shop (if I go that way for the engine) and then not charge me $450 hookup charge? If engine is fixed, can it be driven to Ky with cracked glass to have the glass replaced? (MCI hub in Ky) And is there advice on things I may not have even thought of yet, but should have? Thanks for any advice, Jon

P.S. Pictures are a mix of before broken glass and after, but hard to see cracked glass in pic's
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1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2011, 03:21:30 AM »

Welcome!

Contact Doug1968, he might have the entry door window. He also has a 102A3, lives in Vancouver, WA.

Looks like you got your feet wet pretty fast huh. You have come to the right place to get information. Lot of two stroke guru's here that can lend a hand.

Have fun and be safe!

Paul

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« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2011, 03:33:01 AM »

  Your sure to get a lot of responses, and a lot of different suggestions. Your going to have to weed your way through and find what makes sense to you. Like you im in my early 50's, with a strong mechanical background but none in heavy diesels. I did salvage a bunch of Buses years ago, but didnt get into the mechanical bits. That may have been my salvation, or my downfall, depending on how you look at it. On the one hand I learned enough to be scared of them to do a lot of research on these forums and asked a lot of stupid questions. Unlike me it looks like you just jumped in with both feet and started asking questions later. Fortunately it likely dont make any difference, were both going to learn a heck of a lot wrenching on our Bus so it all works out.

  First of all, welcome to the madness, as they say. Secondly, congratulations, it looks like a decent Bus. Now what to do with it? Okay, Buses are down in value and not selling, we all know that. You have more than scrap value into it, but not a great deal more, your not that far in over your head, you could part it out and scrap the shell. But that dont sound like your plan.

  First things I would do is get someone to help you learn your way around it. Get the water out of it. Drain the oil. And start over. You may not have damaged anything yet, but its getting cold so lets not let it freeze while were at it and do more damage??

  You may not be aware, but these Detroit 2 strokes like straight 40 weight oil, and far too many run multi vis in them and wonder why they smoke. Some say they smoke real bad but clear out and stop using much once the switch is made to the right stuff.

  So the second thing you want to have the engine serviced, inspected, and tuned/repaired. There wont be any way to determine what needs replacing until someone gets in there digging. Its quite possible that simply changing the oil and tuning it up and running the snot out of it might be all it needs. Along with the wrong oil, short periods idling and shutting them down without ever reaching operating temp is not good for any engine, and these especially so. It can take 50 miles out burning the interstate at full speed to really clear them out.

  So before you throw in the towel, have it checked out by someone that these guys will recommend to you. Listen to them. Some of these guys were driving these things before you and I were in junior high. And by the way, thats a nice looking Bus.

  

  
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« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2011, 03:51:22 AM »

Art gave you some good advice,  that is a great looking bus and well worth finishing into a great mot er home.  The first thing I would do is find a 2 stroke mechanic, most of the people who actuality worked on these engines have retired but still can be found.  From what you said about the running of the mot-er I don't think you have much of a problem . What you have is a wonderful learning expanse, go for it and quit worrying about your age.  lol
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« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2011, 04:19:30 AM »

As to the windshield issue.  ANY towing company out there knoows to block one before totally unhooking.  Tell the guy to contact his insurance company.  He will not want to do that, but that is what he needs to do!
Jack
PS, good luck here, they are quite fun!
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Jack Hart, CDS
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« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2011, 05:04:43 AM »

As to the windshield issue.  ANY towing company out there knoows to block one before totally unhooking.  Tell the guy to contact his insurance company.  He will not want to do that, but that is what he needs to do!
Jack
PS, good luck here, they are quite fun!
There is an option here.  He can come up with some ca$h and the ins does not have to know.  Be sure to present that option to him.  Not having the wheels blocked is unacceptable and 100% his responsibility.  I'm with artvonne on this one your engine might not be in that bad of condition.  It sounds like the engine keeps running better every time you try it.  If you can fix the water problem you need to drive the crap out of it HAMMER DOWN!  I do not understand how the water got into the engine.  You said something about a hose not being routed correctly.  Does this mean that you poured water into the engine's intake?  Are you thinking that water entered the cylinder through a cracked head or cylinder liner?  How is the best way to clear water from a hydrolocked diesel cylinder?  On a gas engine I would pull a spark plug then rotate the engine.  P.S. I like your coach.  That model of MCI has always been a favorite of mine. 
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« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2011, 06:00:50 AM »

lots of bus nut in Indiana. What part of indianapolis area?  Several up your way. Check Message area above.    Bob   Evansville
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« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2011, 06:12:42 AM »

You *REALLY* need the manuals for your bus and engine.  They will give you basic info so that you don't do any more damage.  Also, it would help you to get a mechanic experienced in these buses and these engines to work on your bus -- your friend may have great car knowledge and the best intentions of helping you in the world, but for many things the right thing to do on a light-duty engine is the wrong thing for a big diesel.
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« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2011, 06:30:56 AM »

For starters I would say get the water out and get clean oil into the engine.  Then bite the bullet and pay a good diesel engine mechanic to tell you exactly what shape the engine is in.  If it is bad you can rebuild it or buy a replacement engine to put in.  Lots of options and I think your still ahead even with the game even if you have a problem engine.
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« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2011, 06:45:41 AM »

No need to take the Bus to Louisville to get the windshield replaced. Any good glass shop can change it or you can do it yourself with help. You probably need to change the seal because they tend to leak anyway.

Terry
Mitchell,In.
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Terry
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« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2011, 06:54:58 AM »

You have problems the broken glass is the least of the problem that engine has been hot if locking up pull the heads one are both are cracked sorry to say this but it is overhaul for you and before spending a ton of money have someone check the lower end first if that engine has ran with water and antifreeze in the oil it will have spun bearings man I feel for you and you need to figure out why it ran hot also.
If you buy another engine be sure it is for a MCI you don't want to go there changing stuff for a truck engine to work in a MCI  


good luck
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« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2011, 07:03:03 AM »

  Okay im reading your first post again. Sounds like you put water in the oil filler back by the engine, not up high on the pass side above the radiator? Filled until water came out of the blower drains, then cranked it and it locked? Ewwwww.

  Yes, you could have really jacked the engine. But if it didnt fire, im thinking you could be okay. Anything that could have broke you surely would have heard. I think.

  But your not going to know until you get it drained and time is not your friend, it needs to get out of there ASAP. Like NOW. Like yesterday. Pull the oil plug, let the water pour off on the ground til you see oil, put the plug back in and wait 10 minutes. Then do it again. If you filled the engine up to the blower with water, you could have 50 gallons of water in there. Maybe more? . DO NOT HIT THE STARTER until you can turn the engine by hand. Drain the water off but leave the old oil in it (put the plug back in as soon as you see oil). The entire engine is water logged, any fresh oil you put in will simply be contaminated within seconds. So use the old oil as your first sponge. I think it was Clifford said a week or so back, these things hold 2 or 3 gallons of oil in various cavities that will never drain out, you have to flush the motor with oil changes to keep those cavities clean, so use your old oil to start the process. Water being heavier than oil, those cavities are likely water filled.

  Once you get the majority of water out, and see a realistic level of oil on the stick, try turning the engine by hand. Youll likely need a big bar, but dont force it. It may take a patience, but with constant turning pressure the water will slowly go past the rings. Once you cant turn it through, turn it 4 or 5 times at least. Someone here can tell you how, but you need to bypass the fuel cutoff switch so you can crank it without it trying to start. Also flip the emergency stop valve closed. You absolutely DO NOT want it to fire. Now you should be able to hit the starter, just make short bumps from the rear control panel, keep bumping it over until you see it turn a few a rotations, then crank it at least 30 seconds. Any water will be blown through and you should then be able to try starting. But..

  Go back and drain the oil pan one more time to get any more water out from under the oil. Now pull your oil filter(s) and dump them out, and then screw it back in. No use wasting them.

  I think at this point you could give it a whirl. Turn the fuel back on, release the shut off, and cringe as you hit the starter. If it fires up and dont go KABANG, leave it running 5 or 10 minutes, shut it down, wait 20 and drain the water off at the pan and filters again. Then your going to have to make a bunch of $100 oil changes to get all the remaining water out. If there is any way to drive it, thats what I would suggest, go out and drive it a couple hours and drain it as soon as it stops turning, before any water can fall out of the oil. But I would change the oil at least twice before driving it. The old oil, and whatever new stuff you replace it with. That second oil change dont have to be proper grade or real high quality, just clean. And cheap is fine. Good luck.

  And please, come back and tell us how its going? Your not the first to do something dumb, we all were dumb enough to buy a Bus, and all of us have done some real boneheaded things so dont feel bad.

  I see Clifford aka luvrbus just replied. Hes usually right. Clifford, if I read the post correctly it never ran with water, he filled it up with water and it hydroed. Not very good, but he might not of broke anything.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 07:08:06 AM by artvonne » Logged
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« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2011, 07:26:26 AM »

It had a bad engine when he bought it Paul if it is locking up he has cracked heads and it is a waste of money to try and patch a 6v92 that has been hot the head will stand a lot of heat so it has been hot

I would remove the air box covers and see where the water is coming from he can take a socket on the cam and turn the engine backwards to brake the lock 

good luck
« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 09:36:58 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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« Reply #13 on: September 26, 2011, 07:39:31 AM »

Welcome to the insanity of bus ownership.  I am also from Indiana, Just north of Anderson.  I saw that you repaired medical equipment.  By chance do you know Russell Snow? He is budy of mine who also repairs equipment in the indy area.

I also agree with the previous that the tow truck operator is 100% at fault on the broken glass.

I dont have much engine advice other then to listen to Clifford (luvrbus).

A picture of where the water was put it in will also clear things up a bit.

Eric
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« Reply #14 on: September 26, 2011, 10:04:52 AM »

Hopefully Steve (5B) will see this. He is in Indy and could maybe help.
Chaz
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« Reply #15 on: September 26, 2011, 05:03:35 PM »

   Thanks for the great response and emails. First I thing I need to make clear where the water went. I read an online manual for an MCI-9 and what I'm saying is what it said to do and what it called the fill holes. The first place I tried to fill with coolant was what they call the "coolant recovery tank". (1st Picture) I guess when the "surge tank" needs water it turns on a pump and gets filled by water from the coolant recovery tank. I read that I can turn on the pump and when I tried this nothing happened. I checked one of the water pipes/tubes and it didn't feel warm and didn't feel like water was being pumped through it.

   So I did more reading and found there was an "emergency coolant fill" next to the surge tank way above the engine. I IR temp checked the tank and lines and felt it was cool enough to open. (2nd Picture) Not wanting to waste coolant until I was sure this was plumbed right I just stuck a hose in it and turned the water on slow flow. I felt the tank and the temp dropped with the cold water. Then I heard water hitting the ground and looked for an overflow or something. I found the water coming from the passenger side slobber tube on the side of the block. I shut the water off and waited for it to stop draining. I quickly checked the oil to see if it was full of water. I had added oil earlier that day and the level had not changed so I figured no water in there yet. The engine was not running at this time and every time I started it before (after giving it new batteries) it fired on the first try. It had not locked up before and not really gotten that warm before since I owned it.

   I think we have to agree that it may have overheated in a past life. Why else would the "coolant recovery tank" be bypassed and why would it flow out the slobber tube the first time I added water? Ok, so after it stops dripping water from the slobber tube I check the oil again, still no rise in level. So I hit the start switch and I hear the starter clunk but not turn. As soon as I hear this I let off the switch knowing what I thought I was hearing and having read stories about diesel engines not being able to compress water and water lock. I let it sit over night and came out the next day to check the oil level. It had gone up and looked like there was a little bit of water in there now. As of today I checked the level again and it is even higher.

I have read posts and emails and this is my plan as I understand it. My thought is to remove the valve covers (why do they call it an air box cover, there are valves in there) and use something to open the closed exhaust valves one at a time while someone tries to turn the engine with a breaker bar. When I find the one trying to compress water it should pump the cylinder water out the open exhaust port valve. I do this until the engine can be turned over through the full rotation a few times. Then, as I have been told, flush out the water/oil and drain the filter. Add cheep oil and try starting it. I think this needs to be done shortly after the water goes into the exhaust so it can burn out of the exhaust instead of having water just sitting in the exhaust system for a day or two. Do I have the right plan of attack here? Am I missing anything? I now have an engine manual so if this works and the engine runs again I should be able to trouble shoot where the water entered the cylinder. I'm sure it's a bad o-ring or bad head at this point. The fact that it didn't fill the oil pan with water, but went to the slobber tube is probably a big clue once I look at the engine breakdown pictures. Thanks again, Jon

« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 05:14:12 PM by Bus Busted » Logged

1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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« Reply #16 on: September 26, 2011, 05:32:14 PM »

You are wasting your time if the engine has locked remove the air box covers they are under the head oblong 2 on each side of a 6v92 the long one has 3 bolts the small one has 2 while you are there look at it with a flashlite or scope if you have black marks on the liner or scuffing,or if the rings don't spring back on the piston when you push on 1 with a pick it's time for a rebuild .  
 Put water in it If water is leaking on the piston and running into the air box from the ports it will be a head if leaking on the outside of the sleeve it will be a O-ring which I doubt they don't give that much trouble unless some idiot used soap or VO on install, they have improved the sleeve seals over the years they don't give the problems people here talk about,you may get lucky and it only a seal on the head to the block.
 I wish you luck but you can slice the pie into 4,6 or 8 pieces but the heads are coming off and anything else is a waste of time and money  

good luck
« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 06:22:39 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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« Reply #17 on: September 26, 2011, 05:39:15 PM »

Bus busted I see you have been on here a short time.  Lots of folks here have a lot to say including me.  I know so little about anything I don't even suspect anything.  I do know this.  If Luvrbus is that specific about anything he is all over it.  What he wrote and how he wrote it is without a doubt the problem with your bus.  I believe he has nailed it.
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1984 Silver Eagle Model 10 6V92 Allison auto tranny
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« Reply #18 on: September 26, 2011, 06:24:42 PM »

BB, sorry to hear this happened. Boy this is all to familiar, an overheated motor (scuse me engine Grin)was the culprit on my old six shooter. Cracked heads was the end result, do your self a big favor and go grab a running take out, and throw it in there and keep on boogieing  Wink. Been there done that, got the greazy T-shirt LOL! Oh welcome to the best Roll Eyes hobby on the planet by the way, huh guys Grin. good luck!

      Red Robin
     YUMMMM!!

    Van
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« Reply #19 on: September 27, 2011, 05:59:57 AM »

Bus Busted,

Clifford (luvrbus) diagnosed what was wrong with my engine from 3000 miles away blindfolded with two hands tied behind his back on a 15 second description.  He's the best on here, so you can take his word to the bank.  These old 2 strokes are not like a Chevy 350, it takes a highly skilled and experienced guy to make 'em act right.  (And I am sure not one of them)

I like Van's idea.  You can easily wind up throwing a lot of good money after bad, not to mention wasting a lot of time and frustration.  Let word get around a little and someone here will find you a take-out for a very reasonable price. 

Good luck,
Marc 
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« Reply #20 on: September 27, 2011, 06:36:24 AM »

OK BB,
I haven't had time to respond here yet. But Clifford aka Luvrbus is 100% correct!

Several things need correction on what you think. (I know your new to these things and it will take time to learn)
1st off the "air box covers" and valve covers are 2 different animals and not to be confused. (and yes on a small block chevy valve covers are the first thing removed)

On a Detroit one of the first things you do to diagnose a problem is yank the air box covers off the suspected side. And "like" on a small block chevy, you can tell a whole bunch very fast.

Now the 2nd thing is the coolant tank you picture on the left side of your engine compartment is not you recovery tank, it is merely a coolant tank or reservoir if you want to call it that. The water in it hardly ever gets warm. The tank at the top is your surge tank.

The lower tank is where you pour water/coolant in and with the master battery switch & the ignition switch both on it should pump up to the "surge" tank.
If it doesn't check to see that (A) your getting power to the switch, (B) your getting power from the switch to the pump, (C) if the pump is getting power and not pumping, it's probably bad.  (but it's not in anyway part of your engines problem!)

I can assure you that what you have is typical and Clifford's on the $ with it.

What part of Indy are you in? I grew up in the Eagletucky/Speedway area and graduated from Northwest High School in 1984.
I now live in TN 1/2 way between Nashville & Memphis. I occasionally slip back to Indy to visit friends.

As far as take outs go, I have a local source selling MUI 6V92's w/Allson 740's for $3500 ea. and I can get them to leave it on the MCI frame mount.

I could be persuaded to pick one up and deliver it to Indy for expense $.
Grin  BK  Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
5B Steve
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« Reply #21 on: September 27, 2011, 07:50:42 AM »

  Bus busted,

  I live on the SW. side of Indianapolis west of the airport. Where are you located?

   Steve 5B.....
« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 08:26:52 AM by 5B Steve » Logged
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« Reply #22 on: September 27, 2011, 08:12:54 AM »

   Bus Busted,

    Please excuse the previous post, for I hit the send button before it was completed. As formentioned,

   EASTSIDE WELDING is the Clifford (Luvrbus) of mechanicals in the Indianapolis area.  They worked on mine

  and did a fantastic job. With Clifford's knowledge, and there skills ,you can take it to the bank! If I can be

 of any help feel free to call 317-358-7520. Also if you need a engine , I have a 8V-71 for next to nothing.


  Steve 5B......

« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 08:25:25 AM by 5B Steve » Logged
Scott Bennett
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« Reply #23 on: September 27, 2011, 08:13:06 AM »

Check Craigslist: http://flint.craigslist.org/pts/2519575303.html
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Scott & Heather
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« Reply #24 on: September 27, 2011, 07:50:11 PM »

   First I would like to thank everyone who has posted or e-mailed me. I have read and considered everything, even if I haven't replied to their post. I'm a fast study and also prefer to learn from others mistakes. I had called the local coach companies and found two were fond of a company called "East Side Welding". "5B Steve" also likes this company which makes me feel even better. The fact that they were called "Welding" and not "Coach Repair" had me a little worried. I thought about taking the engine apart myself and if things went bad just look for a swap out. I think I will pass on that after looking at the engine manual. Once I'm past that way of thinking it seems there are two camps, have fixed what's broke on my engine or find a running swap that I can hear run.

   I'm thinking I'll maybe do a little of both. Have mine taken apart and see what shape it's in. The heads are going to be pulled even if it's just a topside seal. Should know if there's cracking or warping in the head at that time. They have to pull the pistons to install o-rings on the sleeves, so they should be able to tell if there are cracks in the crank. Also at that time they should know if the bearing are bad. When I talked to them the older man said he liked to look at a couple spots for blower damage too! If everything is bad/cracked, I'm just in for pricey labor and not parts yet. I'll try to see if "East Side Welding" can be ready to bail on the rebuild if the block looks too bad with the understanding that they will get paid to do the install of the swap engine if that looks like the better choice. I do get down to TN regularly and might be able to put an ear on one of the engines that "Busted Knuckle" was talking about before it gets pulled. That price is right. I'm just not sure about that being my first choice as it will be coming out in unknown condition and could be a few months from failing. Where getting mine rebuilt will buy me the comfort of knowing it's in great shape. It also sounds like they know what to look for as far as other future trouble the coach might have.

   I now know that there is a bus event in Northern Indiana and it looks like I can make that. This should help with my learning curve even though I won't have a bus ready by that time. There are a few things I would like to see first hand. Conversion plumbing and how it was moved from the rear of the bus. How people dealt with the curves where the wall meets the ceiling. How they use space and not waste it as it seems every mod and floor plan wants to waste space! Also I'm looking forward to seeing what Elkhart, IN has in the way discounted RV surplus. Always knew they were there and THE place for RV parts, never been there. Hope I'm not too late as I have heard that some places have gone under.

Thanks again for the posts and info. I now understand more than I did. Like air box covers are not the valve covers, but the plates on the side that let you see the sleeves. Well take a look at what I have planned and if you think I'm on the wrong track, let me know. Other than checking everything out on it, there is no major rush to get it repaired in the next day or two.

   
« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 09:31:46 PM by Bus Busted » Logged

1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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« Reply #25 on: September 27, 2011, 07:56:46 PM »

There is also a place in Montpelier (sp?) IN that has RV surplus.  I dont know how they compare in price but its alot closer to you.

What event is in northern IN that you refered to? I havent heard of any in IN.

Eric
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« Reply #26 on: September 27, 2011, 09:02:46 PM »

   DemoDriver, the event is the "Great Lakes Converted Coaches, Surplus & Salvage Rally in Elkhart, IN Oct 12-16"

   Just in case this makes a difference as to my engine choice or plans... My plans for this bus are to convert to an RV / Tour Bus. I have the need to drive 7-10 people about 200-400 miles from Indianapolis with the need for 6-9 bunks. I plan on beefing up the back end a little and installing a trailer hitch. I want to haul a small trailer or a tow car. If this won't work I can have a chase truck follow with the trailer. Part of my plan is to have an area for a mobile studio used when the bus is parked that I currently haul in a trailer. This is why doing my own bus setup sounds better to me than buying a finished one and ripping stuff out to fit a new floor plan. I am using this site to get ideas and floor plans as they have lots of pictures with the floor plan at the bottom of each listing (the even have some MCI's). My plans are not as "Grand" as the ones you'll see here.
http://www.busforsale.com
I go to used buses and the first group is "Entertainer Coaches"
Thanks for any thoughts on this, Jon
« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 09:15:00 PM by Bus Busted » Logged

1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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« Reply #27 on: September 28, 2011, 09:52:16 AM »

Those guys from Great Lakes Converted Coaches are a pretty good bunch of people.  I met a few this summer in Turkeyville and had a blast.  They are a wealth of knowledge.  It will be a rally worth attending.  I would be there myself but I have a family reunion at the same time. 
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« Reply #28 on: September 28, 2011, 10:13:45 AM »

Eric, that is a good rally George and Sue Meyers are there most of the time George is probably the best electrical mind around and he can make it simple to understand you should go if nothing else to meet George and Sue wonderful people

good luck
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« Reply #29 on: September 28, 2011, 10:48:43 AM »

Is there a website for the rally?  I might be able to make it up threw the week some time. It seams that there is about 10 events going on this weekend that I want to go to.

Thanks Eric
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« Reply #30 on: September 28, 2011, 01:39:13 PM »

 I need to thank "5B Steve" for coming over and giving the bus a good once over. He pointed out a few things letting me know what they were and what I needed to do to maintain them. We were able to get it out of water lock and fire it up for  a min or two so it would idle. Couldn't run it more than that as there was a little water in the oil now (about a Qt). We went and picked up 12 gal of the right oil (it had 15W40 in it) and I'll be draining it and putting in the Shell Rotella SAE 40. I'll dump the filter, but not replace it at this time as I'm sure that will happen soon when the heads are looked at. With fresh oil I'll be able to move it around a little, let it run til it gets warm, and set up a time when East Side Welding can take a look at it. I have a few more tests to do like seeing if there's water getting to the radiators. Thanks again Steve
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1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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« Reply #31 on: September 28, 2011, 05:00:30 PM »

I tried to copy the info on the GLCC Elkhart Bus Rally, but I could not paste the PDF file.   If you send me your email, I will send it.  Basically

Great Lakes Converted Coach
Oct 12-16
Elkhart Campground, Elkhart, IN
Hosts Pat and Vickie Lintner 574-674-8991
Breakfast and dinner provided

Let Pat and Vickie know if you are planning to attend so they can plan accordingly.

Ed Roelle
Flint, MI


 





 



 


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« Reply #32 on: October 04, 2011, 07:45:01 PM »

   Well I made a big step with my bus, I had the police come out and fill out the paperwork to plate it. I have been running it twice daily (only until it warms up) and it has started to smooth out even though it still has some big issues that need fixed soon. I found I could get it up to 30mph in my driveway and that it would run for 15-20min before getting good and warm. I live about a mile from a Speedway station and their diesel is $3.65 right now. I thought this would be a good time to run down and fill her up when it got late enough. It was showing I had 1/4 of a tank (156 gal tank) so I set off down the road at 30 mph. It was going as smooth as it could with it's issues and handled the two red lights, both which I had to stop for, really well.

   I pulled in, shut it off, and prepaid $300. First thing I found was that I have to hold the pump or it slides out of the tube. Second, as soon as you pull in a station it doesn't matter how late it is, 9:00pm my time, everyone takes that time to pull in too. As I stood pumping I saw both forward and behind get blocked with cars and a double trailer UPS truck. Then at about $175 it clicks off I have filled 5gal containers with diesel and know that it can "foam?" a little so I let it sit for a min while a checked the engine temp, it was on the cool side of warm. So I went back to pumping and got another $25 in it, but it was real full. So I guess the gas gauge moves, but is not that close. I was thinking $569 to fill it from empty, so 1/4 a tank should have taken $300-$400 to fill. Well after settling the money, I had to ask the UPS driver (who was waiting for them to make a new pot of coffee) to come out and make sure I could clear his rig when I left. Returning home I took it up to 40mph and there was the smoke I knew I would see so I backed it down to 30 and got it home safely / no tow truck.

   I will be removing the heads in the next week or two and the only place I know to get the o-rings and stuff for the heads would be MCI. Any thought on the best price for these parts along with the oil and other filters would be a help. We will be checking for cracks and other signs of engine wear at that time so I will have my fingers crossed that she's going to be more than a large mobile storage unit. Thanks for any input, Jon
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1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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« Reply #33 on: October 04, 2011, 07:52:08 PM »

These people make it easy for you guys to order parts from www.dieselpro.com

good luck
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« Reply #34 on: October 04, 2011, 07:58:36 PM »

Again Clifford is correct! Ya don't order Detroit Diesel parts from MCI! Just like ya don't order MCI parts from Prevost. (unless they are on sale!)
Grin  BK  Grin
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Busted Knuckle aka Bryce Gaston
KY Lakeside Travel's Busted Knuckle Garage
Huntingdon, TN 12 minutes N of I-40 @ exit 108
www.kylakesidetravel.net

Grin Keep SMILING it makes people wonder what yer up to! Grin (at least thats what momma always told me! Grin)
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« Reply #35 on: October 04, 2011, 08:03:34 PM »

Don't buy a head there I can get you both for 1200 bucks  not a welded heads either

good luck 
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« Reply #36 on: October 04, 2011, 08:19:42 PM »

Thanks, checked out Diesel Power Pro and the price looks right. If I see cracks on the heads I'm going to look a little deeper into the engine, if it's just the heads I'll get a hold of Clifford. If it's more I might get a hold of Clifford anyway just to get his thoughts before getting a pulled engine from "Busted Knuckle" in TN.
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1985 Eagle waiting repair of burn damage
1984 Eagle Model 10, just started conversion
1986 MCI 102A3, seated when bought, conversion on hold until Eagle is done
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