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Author Topic: Cutting Holes Through Bottom of Cargo Bay  (Read 2809 times)
Tevo
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« on: November 04, 2011, 07:30:26 AM »

I have a 4106 and currently the cargo bay door has to be open in order to have the sewer hose attached. Winter's coming and that just won't work, so I'd like to bring the dump hose up underneath the floor and into the bay so I can leave the bay closed. Should I have any concerns about cutting a 3.5" to 4" hole through the floor in terms of compromising the structural integrity? As always, thank you in advance!
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Len Silva
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« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2011, 08:01:51 AM »

I would not be concerned about structural integrity at all.  Do note that the bus can sit pretty low when it is aired down and there is not a lot of room for the connection.
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« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2011, 08:10:49 AM »

I am not sure what the engineers would say about it. But I cut several holes 3 1/2"  for the sewer and the vent for the generator. I have had no problems yet and don't plan on any either. During a conversion I am sure we do things to our buses that do compromise the original integrity of the bus structure. Keep in mind the use of the structure/bus is different as a coach/motorhome than when it was used in service. I personally believe that my bus see less stress and abuse than it did when it was making someone money. LOL

John
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John Riddle
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« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2011, 08:12:32 AM »

I would not be concerned about structural integrity at all.  Do note that the bus can sit pretty low when it is aired down and there is not a lot of room for the connection.

The height was my other concern. Due to a small leak it's more or less empty of all air right now and I think I have enough room. I'm not going to be able to have the connection underneath with it that low, though. I figure I can cut the hole then snake the hose through it and into the bay and make the connection. I'm also considering dropping a macerator in but, of course, I'll still have the connection issue.
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Tevo
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« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2011, 08:14:05 AM »

I am not sure what the engineers would say about it. But I cut several holes 3 1/2"  for the sewer and the vent for the generator. I have had no problems yet and don't plan on any either. During a conversion I am sure we do things to our buses that do compromise the original integrity of the bus structure. Keep in mind the use of the structure/bus is different as a coach/motorhome than when it was used in service. I personally believe that my bus see less stress and abuse than it did when it was making someone money. LOL

John

I think you're probably right. I certainly don't put all that many miles on the bus.  Grin
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John316
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« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2011, 08:28:35 AM »

I have a 4106 and currently the cargo bay door has to be open in order to have the sewer hose attached. Winter's coming and that just won't work, so I'd like to bring the dump hose up underneath the floor and into the bay so I can leave the bay closed. Should I have any concerns about cutting a 3.5" to 4" hole through the floor in terms of compromising the structural integrity? As always, thank you in advance!

IMHO, there is no problem at all.

Our generator has two huge holes cut under it for ventilation. We covered the whole bay in 3/4 plywood, afterwards. The cut goes almost the length of the bay between the the structural supports. 75K miles later, we still doing well.

John
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JLL
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« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2011, 09:17:42 AM »

On  my o6 I brought the ABS thru the  floor and  made the fitting
flush with the bottom.  I put an angle fitting on the  hose so  all I
have to do is reach under and give the hose a twist.  I think that would be easier than fishing the hose up thru the floor.  Some time it's close but I have allways been able to make it work.
Good luck
JLL
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Jerry32
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« Reply #7 on: November 04, 2011, 03:22:32 PM »

I used a body saw and cut a hole for the electric water and sewer so the door can be in the closed position.
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« Reply #8 on: November 04, 2011, 04:12:37 PM »

I Have saw buses with the tank in the back bay the outlet comes out of the fender wheel above the floor and never saw one broke either

good luck
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« Reply #9 on: November 04, 2011, 04:36:46 PM »

Your gonna shoot your eye out.... Undecided
IF and when it freezes and you forget to drain the hose...your gonna need a spare slinky hose.
were i you i would cut the hole, 3"abs pipe it, heat tape it, insulate it.
oh and get a shovel and dig the needed clearance before it freezes.
My coach has a 3" 90* rubber elbow extended the width of the worm clamp surface. with the floor outside of the cargo bay deck.
This way I can run ABS or stick in a flex bayonet adapter and go with RV slinky, depending on how long I am staying.
Thats my way.
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« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2011, 07:53:24 PM »

You can buy all kinds of short plastic connectors in straight, 45*, 90* which will lock onto your hose or drain valve ends.  So, you can easily keep the drain valve inside the comp and cover the floor hole if necessary and have plenty of space to make these connections.

Get a Camping World catalog or go online to see all the connectors available. It always pays to carry an assortment just in case.

The hose doesn't need to be permanently connected for long term camping, let the tank fill and then drain it. Works much better this way.

I have a portable macerator and only use it when I have no choice, it is slow.
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« Reply #11 on: November 04, 2011, 08:24:57 PM »

I would find a hard material connector to pass through the hole in the floor and make the turn towards your eventual drain, connect to the piping in the bay, and use the slinky hose horizontally from your connector.

A slinky hose fished through a hole in the bay floor will get a hole in it, sooner or later, and then what do you have on your hands, and in the bay, and in the parking spot.... Trouble.

Also, have a way to make the hole critter proof, both when connected, and when closed up and underway.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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« Reply #12 on: November 04, 2011, 09:02:50 PM »

Our sewer line is punched through the floor just like Jriddle's.  We use a clear, 90 elbow on the sewer hose to connect to it.  It's easy to attach and remove.  Works fine.
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« Reply #13 on: November 05, 2011, 04:11:57 AM »

Very nervous the first time Wink

After that pretty easy!

Grant
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Grant Goold
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« Reply #14 on: November 05, 2011, 04:24:55 AM »

We used a 3" drain line inside with a ball valve to a 90 through the bay floor. Under the bus is a traditional dump valve. I got a normal 90 it attach to the valve (it's removable) that I attach the slinky hose to. We lived the last two winters in Colorado with temperatures as low as 18 below and never froze even though we left the drain valves open. We heated the water coming in, but the slinky hose was in a piece of flex duct. If you have snow just bury your slinky hose, that works too.
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Jerry32
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« Reply #15 on: November 05, 2011, 06:46:40 AM »

I don't use the slinky hose as they always go bad. I bought the sewer solution long ago and it has a 1" hose and has lasted for many years.
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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #16 on: November 06, 2011, 03:41:39 PM »

Ditto on the sewer solution. I love it...I'll never go back to a slinky hose. That being said, I've cut a notch out of the BAY DOOR itself along the bottom edge. Just another way...and eliminates the underneath clearance issue.
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Scott & Heather
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« Reply #17 on: November 06, 2011, 06:50:32 PM »

5\8" hose through the bottom, also won't ever  go back to 3" flex hose. Mine is hooked to a disposerator 3\4 HSP. Works like a dream
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belfert
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« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2011, 05:19:17 PM »

Do you guys really use the Sewer Solution for regular dumping of tanks at a dump station?  Doesn't it take way too long?

I own a Sewer Solution for dumping at home, but it generally takes 15 to 20 minutes to empty my tank.
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« Reply #19 on: November 07, 2011, 07:24:23 PM »

Not at a dumping station..slinky is best for that, but when I'm at a full hookup site (like now) I use the sewer solution. I have a 100 gallon black/grey combo tank and it doesn't take nearly 20 minutes to drain...rather about 5-7 minutes...I just go outside, turn on the valves, open the dump valve and let er fly. Then I go about working on some outside project until I hear the sewer solution burp signaling it's done. Easy, clean, and effective.
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Scott & Heather
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« Reply #20 on: November 09, 2011, 04:03:45 PM »

Scott,

You're a very brave man. Considering the very high pressure the macerator pump puts on the smaller hose there is a very real possibility it could burst - I don't have the nerve to walk away from mine for even a minute!!
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« Reply #21 on: November 09, 2011, 04:18:39 PM »

Scott,
You're a very brave man. Considering the very high pressure the macerator pump puts on the smaller hose there is a very real possibility it could burst - I don't have the nerve to walk away from mine for even a minute!!

 Shocked Yuck! The Sewer Solution I use isn't actually a macerator..rather it merely uses water-jet power to liquify the..um...tank contents as they drain past the water jet. Not a whole lot of pressure actually. And, the hose is thick stuff...super thick walled. Hose is stainless hose clamped at both ends and after the 10 foot hose, it's all 1 inch pvc from there to the drain. Again, not a ton of pressure, but it's effective. My current run is 40 feet and slightly uphill.  Undecided Go figure. Who designs these lots?
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Scott & Heather
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« Reply #22 on: February 15, 2012, 04:20:13 PM »

Never heard of the injection pump system like you have? Sounds like a good system. However, considering all the money I have in my portable macerator I have to stick to it.

I agree, that probably doesn't have much pressure.
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« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2012, 05:36:08 AM »

Never heard of the injection pump system like you have? Sounds like a good system. However, considering all the money I have in my portable macerator I have to stick to it.

I agree, that probably doesn't have much pressure.

Yeah, basically "drain assistance" more than anything. But enough water jet propulsion to keep things moving down the line...again, even on a slight uphill.
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Scott & Heather
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