OK, here is the latest update, and further clarifications.
Forklift guys came out, shrugged and said they could not help me. Neither the Parker Store nor the other hydraulic hose shop in town could help -- no metric fittings.
After calling around I found one shop in town that said they could probably fix it, but I'd have to bring it to them. They are 20 miles away. I am going to try to effect a patch (see below) to make it that far tomorrow.
If you can't get it fixed right there, it looks like you have enough room to cut a piece of hose to slip over the pipe, then you can use a hose clamp right over the damaged area. Screw that down tight and you will be good for a few miles. It should get you to a shop.
I hope so. What I was able to source locally was a quality stainless hose clamp with solid (non-perforated) construction and some reinforced clear vinyl 250psi water hose, 19.5mm ID. My plan is to try to clamp right over the break, as you suggest. I'm sure it will leak, but as long as it keeps fluid in the pump the whole time I should be OK. The reservoir looks to be about 2 gallons; I bought five gallons of cheap ATF at Walmart this afternoon.
If that pipe is like the pressure pipe on my Neoplan, it is flared stainless steel. I had a piece shortened at a hydraulic shop and it is almost impossible to flare that size SS. The factory heats it red hot and then rolls in the flare.
I would guess it to be the same pipe or very similar. Looks to be steel of some kind, anyway.
If you can find a compression fitting for that pipe, I would install it at the first accessible spot beyond the bend and replace that section with 4,000 or 5,000 psi hose.
Hmm. It is my understanding that "normal" compression-type fittings will not work on straight pipe in high-pressure hydraulic applications. Which is why there exist "cut ring" fittings which actually bite into the pipe. I am wrong about this?
I think Lee has the right idea just cut the curve out of it and replace it with a hose.
Well, sure, but the question is how to attach the hose once the pipe is cut and all it has is an unfinished end.
The forklift repair guy will have a solution I can almost guarantee it!
Good thing you said "almost", because otherwise I'd be making you come down here to help, making good on your guarantee...
If the line was cut and a section of hose the correct i.d. were slipped onto the line, and secured with three or 4 HD high quality hose clamps, the repair would likely out live you.
This does not sound right to me. These systems run in excess of 2000psi -- no way a hose clamp against smooth steel can stand up to that kind of pressure. I would estimate the size of the hole in my system to be perhaps 1/16" by 1/8", and three gallons of fluid emptied out in less than a minute once the hole burst through.
The Bus can drive without hydraulic assist, the big issue is damage to the pump. That is easily taken care of by either removing the belt (if its belt driven) or bypassing the line back to the pump.
Sure, it can be driven without the assist -- by a gorilla twice as big as me. I weigh 145 soaking wet, and all my weight on one side of the wheel was not enough to crank me into this parking space. I had to back and fill four times to do what would normally take a single shot.
That said, please say more about bypassing the line. My pump is bolted to the engine gear train, so disconnecting it is not in the cards. The break appears to be in the return line to the reservoir from the steering box. Do I simply couple the supply line from the pump directly to the reservoir return and then top off the system?
You could also clamp a piece of hose against the "wound" with a HD hose clamp. As long as you don't crank the wheel aggressively or hang on the stops making the relief valve scream, its never going to reach max psi and blow a ton of fluid out. Its almost zero psi not doing anything and likely only a 100 psi or so in light applications. That kind of temporary fix may leak, but you could manage it.
Well, this is my plan, as noted above. But I am guessing it is going to leak like a sieve when maneuvering at low speed -- I'm pretty sure the pressures are in the 2000psi range, not 100 as you suggest.
It's pouring rain here now, so I am going to wait until the morning to try to patch the line. I'll top up the reservoir and we'll see if I get any assist backing out of the space without the clamp letting go. If I can make the turn onto the main road, it should be no problem making it to the shop.
Again, I am still open to further suggestions, especially as regards a temporary repair. I am wondering, for example, if completely encasing the pipe in a 1/4" thick layer of JB Weld for an inch on either side of the break would hold pressure long enough to make it 20 miles.