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Author Topic: Losing Air Pressure. Need Your Advice  (Read 3635 times)
DKO
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« on: January 02, 2012, 09:07:44 AM »

1995 Prevost XL with series 60

I started losing air pressure when at a low idle in traffic while making my way from Ohio to Oklahoma. As long as I was accelerating or idling at 1000 RPMs the pressure was fine.

We came upon several lane closures and slowdowns due to accidents and construction. Each time I would have to pull out of the lane of traffic and allow the pressure to build up before continuing. When I arrived in Oklahoma and turned off the engine I could hear an air leak on the passenger side of the engine.

The leaks are in the two metal mesh type hoses in this picture. The small one going up is an oil hose the large one going side to side toward the right bottom corner is the main air hose coming out of the compressor. These are special high temperature hoses with Teflon lining. As you can see the small line is fastened too close to the air line allowing them to rub. Each of them has a hole. (Although I did not realize the larger hose was leaking until later) I was able to have the small hose spliced with a special coupling by Hose Specialties in Ardmore, Oklahoma.




The large hose isn't so easy. It is an air hose that feeds from the compressor toward the front of the bus and out of sight. It looks like it goes all the way in front of the drive axle without a junction. That means there is no way I can access it to remove it, replace it or splice it without a lift or pit.

It is also the special high temp hose with Teflon lining. Is it possible to have a coupling put on it? The small hose coupling was put in place by a press on a bench. There may be a more portable way to press the coupling in but I have no way of knowing. The hose specialty guy isn't open again until Tuesday. I didn't ask him on Friday because I didn't realize at the time that the air line also had a hole. Of course now I am 150 miles farther away from Ardmore than I was.

A friend that was helping me wrapped the air line with a rubber patch and put a hose clamp over it...  In this picture you can see that temporary fix and the coupling in the small hose.



Both of us were dubious about the effort to stop the leak but believe it or not... It worked!  I needed to go about 150 miles yesterday and it held pressure until I arrived. While I was parking I began to lose pressure again and when I turned off the bus I could hear air escaping again.

It occurred to me this morning that there is a possibility that the hose leak is not the major problem and that the system doesn't leak until it is good and warm. But then again it had been running over three hours yesterday before I started losing pressure. Any thoughts on that?

Any ideas on repairing the hose? Keep in mind that I cannot get the hose off without a pit or lift. I am wondering if this hose can be repaired without removing it. Any help would be appreciated. I am in Blair, Oklahoma and should be here about two weeks. My next route is through Oklahoma City and Tulsa to Neosho, Missouri.
Thank you in advance,

DKO
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« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2012, 10:19:03 AM »

The fittings on the hose are reusable, IIRC, though the ferrule sure isn't  Angry.

You should be able to buy a length of hose (and some new ferrules), cut the hose, and screw on the fittings. Easy to do, once you figure out how to make a clean cut on the hose.
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robertglines1
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« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2012, 10:44:44 AM »

That hose runs to your air dryer. located in the left rear wheel area.  Just splice it. Your dryer should be mounted on wall of rear bay--outside ahead of rear end. It would be a job to route a new one in with all the clamps involved.  It goes forward down the right side of bus (curb side) then crosses over  just behind last luggage bay at inside floor level then down to dryer.  Simpler to just reroute new hose if you decide to replace it. Steel braided to guard against wear. just a normal hose inside. 150 psi.    Could have been the plastic air line used in rest of air brake system except for it running in area of heat and possible strikes from rocks and rubbing something also more flexible.   Hope this helps.    Bob
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DKO
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« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2012, 11:55:48 AM »

That hose runs to your air dryer. located in the left rear wheel area.  Just splice it. Your dryer should be mounted on wall of rear bay--outside ahead of rear end. It would be a job to route a new one in with all the clamps involved.  It goes forward down the right side of bus (curb side) then crosses over  just behind last luggage bay at inside floor level then down to dryer.  Simpler to just reroute new hose if you decide to replace it. Steel braided to guard against wear. just a normal hose inside. 150 psi.    Could have been the plastic air line used in rest of air brake system except for it running in area of heat and possible strikes from rocks and rubbing something also more flexible.   Hope this helps.    Bob

That is very helpful. Thank you for the information.

The small hose that I had fixed was definitely Teflon inside and I have been told this one is too because of the hot air the compressor puts out. I know it is hot because I can start the bus for a minute and the clamp is too hot to touch. The engine hasn't even had a chance to warm up yet.

DKO
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« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2012, 01:26:58 PM »

The smaller hoses steel braided are you control and unloader circuits for the air compressor.  Good luck Bob.     
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« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2012, 02:50:27 PM »

DKO, Use a abrasive cutoff wheel to cut in place. Then splice a new piece in, or is there enough slack to just cut on each side of the hole? Goodluck
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2012, 03:05:38 PM »


I've made up lots of teflon hoses with the braided SS jacket. If your hose is teflon, as you said, I don't think you can "splice" it. You can cut it it, and place fittings in it to couple the hoses. The braided jacket on the hose is what resists the pressure inside the hose.
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robertglines1
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« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2012, 03:48:23 PM »

There are clamps you really can't access without major headache. I am redoing a 98 that I had to replace all the hoses from the rear bay back and had the floor out of the bus. I know for a fact.  If you can do a fitting repair you are money and aggravation ahead.  If you decide to go the other way there is rerouting to accomplish same results that I can suggest..Many rusted clamps that will have to be cut out  and tie wraps that bundle other air lines that are just about impossible to access from bottom.  I probably have 40 to 50 hrs repairing air system in the rear differential area that was damaged by brake fire.  I do understand it now.  wish I could have skipped that class!  Best wishes   Was your coach a Entertainer? Does it have leveling system?   Bob
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« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2012, 07:34:26 PM »

I would never splice a line anywhere unless it was a temporary, very temporary fix to move a disabled vehicle from a dangerous spot to a safer location for a perminant repair.


Your temp fix was very good you did what you had to to get in.Now fix it right.
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« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2012, 10:45:43 PM »

There are clamps you really can't access without major headache. I am redoing a 98 that I had to replace all the hoses from the rear bay back and had the floor out of the bus. I know for a fact.  If you can do a fitting repair you are money and aggravation ahead.  If you decide to go the other way there is rerouting to accomplish same results that I can suggest..Many rusted clamps that will have to be cut out  and tie wraps that bundle other air lines that are just about impossible to access from bottom.  I probably have 40 to 50 hrs repairing air system in the rear differential area that was damaged by brake fire.  I do understand it now.  wish I could have skipped that class!  Best wishes   Was your coach a Entertainer? Does it have leveling system?   Bob

Thanks for everything, Bob. No, mine was never an entertainer. It was ordered and built at a MH two owners back. We looked at a lot of entertainer before buying this one nearly four years ago. Most the entertainers in my price range had 500-800,000 miles on them. I was thrilled to find this one in that price range with less than 180,000.

DKO
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« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2012, 03:34:52 AM »

Prevo puts MANY MANY hose and tubing clamps right up to both ends of what seems like every line on the chassis and in addition to the clamps ,as far as the plastic air lines go (these are the most fun) they are cut "exactly to the right length.  That makes "there aint noplaying with it" its got to go back exact if the ferral or the end of the line is bad you gotta pull it, or splice it.

When problems occur on your XLS don't think your going to just in and out of there it is going to take some time if you want it to be correct.

Expect each and every clamp fastening screw to be froze they are Phillips heads and usually not easy to get at. They are tight you might cut the old out but forget about pushing the new thru them either.

The clamps are soft so some can be wiggled till broken loose others I cut with side cutters. Then the screws are either hacksawed or ground flush and the plug knocked in with a small punch.

This explanation is what I have learned and now expect any time I know I have to do this. Sometimes you get lucky usually you don't.

Hope this helps Tongue

« Last Edit: January 03, 2012, 03:36:38 AM by Joe Camper » Logged

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« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2012, 04:32:37 AM »

I know the hose in question and how it runs. If you decide not to splice: to define put mechanical ends on two hose ends after you cut out of short one or two inch damaged area: and use connector. Make sure your new run to the dryer has no sags(place to collect moisture) and is secured well.  Joe is in the repair business and charges $125 per hr I believe and knowing where the original clamps are and routing I would hate to estimate hrs $$$$$$$. If you feel uncomfortable about hose repair; do replace it.. I don't---- I repair hoses that run up to 2500 psi on a regular basis.  Would never repair a line I could get to both end of.    Just for your information. the power steering lines that go to the front are in two pieces. They have a splice at rear baggage bay wall  from differential area. I am replacing them while I have the floor out. There is a mechanical splice there that would be a bugger to get at,  The air hose in question runs above them.  I do not compromise safety and feel confident in repair of any line I would if not I would replace if in doubt. Talk to your local hose guy.   No more from me.   I agree to dis agree.   Bob
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« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2012, 04:50:56 AM »

Might be an opportunity to add a ping tank - make a new hose that is short, to a ping tank in the engine compartment, and cut the old hose at the leak point and attach the old hose to the ping tank with a new termination fitting.  A ping tank is just a vertical 1.5" pipe about 8" long, in and out fittings, and a drain at the bottom.  It catches a lot of the initial moisture and oil from the compressor and lets you drain it out.  All the |MCI's came with one.  Another idea - cut the existing hose section that goes to the air dryer to a length that lets you install a hose end that would be connected to a bulkhead fitting that was installed in a bracket.  That gives you a solid termination point for that line, then make a new hose section that goes from the bulkhead fitting to the air compressor.  Now you have a permanent upgrade that gives you an easily serviceable section of hose to connect the air compressor to the hose to the air dryer.  Supporting the hose with a bulkhead fitting secured to a solid bracket is good practice.

I use this hose for brake lines in my race cars, although in a smaller size.  I run up to 1,000 psi in it, and I have never had a fitting failure, in fact the hose will usually fail in testing before the fitting attachments fail.  The teflon liner takes all of the pressure, and the stainless braid is just for protection.  It's a good system.

Brian
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« Reply #13 on: January 03, 2012, 04:53:14 AM »

Call Jefferson in OKC Ed will tell where to get hose made and give you a name of a shop,there are 5 shops in Tulsa that do bus and one in Wagoner all good shops and that hose is Teflon

good luck
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« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2012, 09:03:06 AM »

I know the hose in question and how it runs. If you decide not to splice: to define put mechanical ends on two hose ends after you cut out of short one or two inch damaged area: and use connector. Make sure your new run to the dryer has no sags(place to collect moisture) and is secured well.  Joe is in the repair business and charges $125 per hr I believe and knowing where the original clamps are and routing I would hate to estimate hrs $$$$$$$. If you feel uncomfortable about hose repair; do replace it.. I don't---- I repair hoses that run up to 2500 psi on a regular basis.  Would never repair a line I could get to both end of.    Just for your information. the power steering lines that go to the front are in two pieces. They have a splice at rear baggage bay wall  from differential area. I am replacing them while I have the floor out. There is a mechanical splice there that would be a bugger to get at,  The air hose in question runs above them.  I do not compromise safety and feel confident in repair of any line I would if not I would replace if in doubt. Talk to your local hose guy.   No more from me.   I agree to dis agree.   Bob

You are right on the labor. Called Prevost this morning and they said 4-6 hours labor to remove and replace plus the cost of the hose itself. Described the routing as you did clamps and all. It would be nearly $1000 to replace it there.

"Might be an opportunity to add a ping tank - make a new hose that is short, to a ping tank in the engine compartment, and cut the old hose at the leak point and attach the old hose to the ping tank with a new termination fitting."

They recommend replacement but told me customers often install a ping tank ore couplings themselve. He said some Prevosts come with them..

Now I need to find somebody in Southwest Oklahoma that can either install a coupling or a ping tank and do it right. Once that hose is cut I am dead in the water. I may be able to limp it to OKC or Tulsa but I sure do not want to press my luck if I don't have to.

Sorry for my ignorance luvrbus but is Jefferson a bus place?

Thanks guys,

DKO
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« Reply #15 on: January 03, 2012, 10:02:05 AM »

If all else fails and your dead in the water. A heavy equipment dealer like cat should have the fittings and labor to do the job. In my area allot of coal mine work goes on so we have access to their support people to make up hoses.   Inquire about aero-quip fittings.    Bob
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« Reply #16 on: January 03, 2012, 11:02:04 AM »

Thanks, Bill from Hose Specialty in Ardmore mentioned Aeroquip reusable fittings this morning. He even gave me some part numbers but he didn't know the exact size of my hose.

DKO
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« Reply #17 on: January 03, 2012, 11:48:02 AM »

hose size: very thin wall      5/8 inside diameter    3/4 outside diameter including stainless braiding actual Teflon/plastic like : less than 1/16Th.  Couldn't find my digital calip to ck so measurements were a close as I could get  with tape.
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« Reply #18 on: January 03, 2012, 01:18:50 PM »

Wow! Thanks! That helps a lot. The Aeroquip # he gave me for example was 63-190600-10. This is for a female fitting. I could put one on each end of the cut and a male coupling in between. That was an option he thought of... It looked promising to me.

DKO
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« Reply #19 on: January 04, 2012, 01:36:25 PM »

  Wow! Thanks! That helps a lot. The Aeroquip # he gave me for example was 63-190600-10. This is for a female fitting. I could put one on each end of the cut and a male coupling in between. That was an option he thought of... It looked promising to me.  DKO

    Yes, that will work (although some may argue that the best way is to completely replace the entire air line) and it offers an advantage in that if you ever decide to put in another component (like the "ping" tank) or a "T" for any reason, you've got a conmvenient place to open up and put in matching fittings to take air pressure/flow off of it.
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« Reply #20 on: January 04, 2012, 02:04:52 PM »

When, and if, you cut the hose make sure you make a clean cut through the braid. You slip part of a fitting over it, & it's a close fit.

I've used a thin abrasive wheel, as Tom Y posted, and put a tight wrap of masking tape around the hose, and cut in the center of the tape.

A length of hose would probably be cheaper than the fittings needed, assuming your hose is made up with those reusable Aeroquip fittings.
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« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2012, 02:43:10 PM »

  When, and if, you cut the hose make sure you make a clean cut through the braid. You slip part of a fitting over it, & it's a close fit.

I've used a thin abrasive wheel, as Tom Y posted, and put a tight wrap of masking tape around the hose, and cut in the center of the tape.

      I like using hose clamps, too, on the outside of the masking tape.  Wrap the tape as tight as you can, then screw the clamps down but don't deform the hose.  Make the gap between the two clamps as thin as you can reasonably can -- it should be even all the way around, too  -- considering the thickness of the abrasive wheel.  But the important thing is to get a good, solid clamp on the hose so that the wheel cuts cleanly and doesn't leave ratty and ravelled edges.  You'll be *really* glad to have a smooth, even cut when you begin to put the ends of the hose into the matching areas in the fittings.
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Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
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« Reply #22 on: January 05, 2012, 05:25:49 AM »

Bob in the future when making comments that are referring to me I would appreciate if you get your facts straight and refrain to not making any assumptions when you do.

Furthermore who I am what I do and what I charge people is my business and none of yours.

I find the comment you made lacking in facts and a bit offensive to say I suggested the longer harder CORRECT way to make that repair only because I overcharge people and that way was the longer way also suggesting I'm all about the money.  Very rude I would have never posted that about someone here even if I thought it. You dont even know who I am other than this forum.

I an an enthusiast here. I spend a great deal of time trying to pass on what I know in an attempt to help people save money not flease them .

I saw a bunch of suggestions I disagreed with (splice) and decided to give him another point of view. It is also the way I would make that repair on my own bus. I also thought I was passing on all of the little idiosyncrasies about the fix he would encounter so he could do it himself if he wanted and save him the cost of paying someone like me. I also was thinking of all the other Prevo owners reading this so that they may view the advice as well.

And another thing I don't get 125 per hr. Other than a couple very generous people most folks pay me 55 per hr. That is what keeps me so busy and allows me to learn as much as I do in any given period of time. Got it. Thank you.
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« Reply #23 on: January 05, 2012, 06:52:55 AM »

Your welcome. Was quoted that figure from one of your customers! The hole is 4 inches from the compressor did you bother to find that out?  Good way to make a grand for a new end. Seems I am budget and you are prevost proud--- I still own one or make that two and don't think they are a waste of money as per your previous post states. Correct?  ModeraTORS PLEASE excuse me I do believe the facts I write are correct and actually come from reliable sources,  I will not say any more. If D was close I would have removed end and repaired with krimped on sleeve/fitting as factory==cost dinner for two. Trying to save busnut $950.    My bad.                Ps  I do make mistakes and do not in any way claim to know it all.I am willing to share what little I do.     Busnut
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« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2012, 07:03:59 AM »

I do not even know how to respond to that.

Have a nice day
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« Reply #25 on: January 05, 2012, 07:08:42 AM »

Back to the original question (hint hint).

The big issue is to find out why the hose leaks.  If if it from abrasion, then repairing it via reusable fittings is a good alternative.  If the failure is from heat (that is why the special hose is used), then you will need to be very careful about splicing the hose.  

Also be aware that reusable couplings are generally manufacturer specific.  If the hose is Aeroquip, you need their fittings, etc

We are only talking about 120 PSI, but we do not want a massive failure (complete separation of the hose).

If you choose to splice the hose, make the splice as far away as possible from the compressor (less heat damage to the hose) and then put a NEW hose from the compressor to the splice.

Jim
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« Reply #26 on: January 05, 2012, 07:24:45 AM »

The way I would do it buy and install a heat transfer tube about 18 inches long and be done with cost you around 70 bucks Prevost are bad about losing that hose they get too hot there

www.aircomparts.com or something like that

good luck
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« Reply #27 on: January 05, 2012, 07:42:35 AM »

Bob would you please forward this thread to the mystery customer who paid me that fee. I suspect he should be very upset when he sees what I posted. Have him call so I can refund any overcharges.

Thanks again.

Getting back to the original thread, a great replacement for all the hose fasteners and clamps is plastic zip-ties with eyelets in them they are a great replacement for the old pot metal dipped in rubber style that either corode away or are impossible to remove without destroying them.

Luvrbus that is also a good upgrade but the photo looks like it rubbed thru.
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« Reply #28 on: January 05, 2012, 07:47:02 AM »

They are not rubber Joe they will withstand the 400 degrees 

good luck
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« Reply #29 on: January 05, 2012, 07:49:27 AM »

The hole is about 4 inches from compressor outlet where hoses crossed and rubbed through.  enough slack in line to cut and add new end or as Clifford said just extend outlet from compressor and not have to worry about slack issue. I actually saw a picture/close up where you could determine problem.  Odd enough I had the same problem in differant area on the 89 where same two hoses crossed near the rear mounted air compressor on the 8V92 (above bellhousing) 5 yrs ago  removed floor and used aeroquip.  all still holding both lines.
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« Reply #30 on: January 05, 2012, 09:04:02 AM »

  The way I would do it buy and install a heat transfer tube about 18 inches long and be done with (snip)

      As an aside, my bus (many details very different from what you see on N American built buses) has a finned metal pipe from the compressor, looping around the engine, to a frame rail and then up to an "oil condenser".  That pipe is approximately 14 feet in total length.  It would be way overkill to graft something like that into one of your buses, but I'm glad that I have it. 
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« Reply #31 on: January 05, 2012, 01:04:51 PM »

Don't worry about it guys I just appreciate the fact that you all are willing to help with the information and expertise that you have. Joe if I were near you I would be glad to pay your rate for a repair and Bob if I were near you I would buy that dinner. Either way I would probably make a friend and have the bus fixed too. Good deal.

I am still working on this end to find somebody willing AND able to work on it. I am 220 miles from Prevost in Ft. Worth and much closer to OKC and then Tulsa is another 100 miles. If I can not get it repaired here I will be attempting another patch and going one of those directions. Either Prevost Ft. Worth for complete replacement or some where in OKC/Tulsa for repair. I need to go to Missouri on the 14th so I would naturally rather go that direction.

I know that some would rather me not move from this spot without completely replacing the hose but unfortunately that is not possible. I do understand the danger/cost/inconvenience of complete loss of air pressure on the road but I can't stay here forever.

I do appreciate all the help.

God bless,

DKO
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« Reply #32 on: January 05, 2012, 02:22:25 PM »

would it help to have a 2ft piece of that hose? if so will cut and send UPS or your choice tomorrow. just click on my signature and send me a message.  Bob   ck message line above  blue line
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« Reply #33 on: January 05, 2012, 04:32:46 PM »

Wow! Been on the road since the 2nd! And had no idea all this was going on.
I can just say that what Clifford, Bob & others say about splicing work safely. And (as usual) Clifford is on the $ about these failing regularly from being too hot. (yes I know it was rubbing there too, but the heat helped it fail as well!)

About Jefferson in OKC. Yes DKO it is a bus place.
Jefferson Truck & Bus.
http://www.google.com/search?q=Jefferson%20Truck%20%26%20Bus%20Oklahoma%20City%2C%20OK&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&source=hp&channel=np

Grin  BK  Grin
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« Reply #34 on: January 06, 2012, 09:54:55 AM »

Wow! Been on the road since the 2nd! And had no idea all this was going on.
I can just say that what Clifford, Bob & others say about splicing work safely. And (as usual) Clifford is on the $ about these failing regularly from being too hot. (yes I know it was rubbing there too, but the heat helped it fail as well!)

About Jefferson in OKC. Yes DKO it is a bus place.
Jefferson Truck & Bus.
http://www.google.com/search?q=Jefferson%20Truck%20%26%20Bus%20Oklahoma%20City%2C%20OK&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&source=hp&channel=np

Grin  BK  Grin


Thank you very much.
 
DKO
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« Reply #35 on: January 06, 2012, 05:02:37 PM »

Not a thing wrong with a good air line splice, there are couplings made for just that purpose. I do it all the time.

After all, we aren't dealing with humongous pressures here - 150 psi at most.

However, splicing a braided hose might be a totally different animal, never done one of those.
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« Reply #36 on: January 06, 2012, 05:43:39 PM »

Mailed parts this am to Davy:::: Compression rated 3000psi for the stainless steel teflon hose that is rated at 1200 psi plus a #10 to 1/2 pipe in case he doesn't have enough slack---hole is only few inches from compressor.  Could use street elbow and short nipple if he needs a little extra length..Should hold 150lb  he is working with.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 06:25:01 AM by robertglines1 » Logged

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« Reply #37 on: January 07, 2012, 08:20:55 AM »

Mailed parts this am to Davy:::: Compression rated 3000psi for the stainless steel teflon hose that is rated at 1200 psi plus a #10 to 1/2 pipe in case he doesn't have enough slack---hole is only few inches from compressor.  Could use street elbow and short nipple if he needs a little extra length..Should hold 150lb  he is working with.

Thank you very much, Bob. May God bless you for your kindness and help. That goes for everybody that has posted. God bless you all.

I will bring everybody up to date when I make some progress. If there is anybody near Blair, Lawton, OKC, Tulsa, Joplin or Neosho that can physically guide me in this I would appreciate it. I called Jefferson in OKC and they are suppose to get back to me.

Thanks again,

DKO
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« Reply #38 on: January 13, 2012, 03:12:21 PM »

I took the BoggsMobile to Altus, Oklahoma (About 15 miles from where I am) today and had the air line fixed.



The plan was to use the reusable fitting that Bob sent and either use a union and another reusable fitting to couple where the hole was OR come out of the compressor with a longer pipe and connect to it. Turns out he did neither. The air line was previously was routed under and hard against two ground wires and moving it above them gave us plenty of slack as Bob and others thought it would.

By doing that and using an Aeroquip reusable fitting the mechanic was able to hook directily to the elbow coming out of the compressor. The female end on the Aeroquip fitting screwed directly on the to existing fitting. It was perfect.



The old fitting. The hole where the new fitting was installed is about 4-6 inches from this fitting.



New fitting hooked to the compressor...



The air line was routed under these two ground cables and you can see where it rubbed. The "stuff" you can see is actually from the plastic wrapping around the ground cables and the air line appears to be in good shape. I may wrap some of the air line with rubber heater hose in places where it comes any where near other lines and hoses.



While this fixed my air leak I believe I may have other leaks. Tomorrow is a travel day so next week if it is not too cold in Missouri I will investigate and perhaps be back with more questions.

Thank you all so much. robertglines1 (Bob) went way beyond the call of duty and to you sir I give double honor! Thank you very, very much.

God bless,

DKO
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