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Author Topic: Radiator Mister  (Read 3710 times)
garhawk
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« on: April 21, 2012, 10:26:45 AM »

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Hey folks,

Just thought you might like to know how my new mister works on the DD Series 60 in my Eagle 20.

During this past summer, the big engine rose to 217 degrees while climbing a 2,000 ft hill here in Middle Tennessee.  The ambient temperature was @ 100 deg.  Although no alarms sounded, nor did the DDEC threaten to shut down the engine, that high temperature number is my self imposed limit so, we pulled to the side and allowed the engine to cool.  With our summer travel plans including some western states with much higher hills and temperatures plus, reading other Board Members experiences with overheating, I decided to install a mister.

Here's how I did it with what was available to me and the layout of the coach. 

1)  Plumbed 1/2" pvc from house water system to a 1/2" copper pipe with 100mm holes drilled approximately 2" apart and mounted across the top of the radiator.

2)  Installed a 12vdc solenoid in the water line at the entrance to the radiator compartment with two switches - one on the driver's instrument panel and the second at the radiator.  The second switch is for testing the mister without a helper located at the driver's panel.

It was a fairly simple, straightforward installation taking the better part of a day.  The first try was disappointing as the solenoid would not shut off.  After some consultation with the manufacturer, it was determined that since I had mounted the solenoid at the highest point in the plumbing, air was being trapped and the unit could not build sufficient pressure to shut itself off.  Once the air was worked out, the solenoid worked perfectly and water flooded the radiator. 

Sitting still, the mister dumps what appears to be a large amount of water.  I may have drilled the holes a might on the big size.  When the water squirts out it is more than a mist.  However, my mind envisions what could be a mist when at speed and a 50 mph wind is blowing across it.

Here's the only test result I can report to you because the weather
has been on the cool side.  With the outside temperature at between 70 and 75 degrees, on the highway driving 55 mph and, the engine temperature reading 187 degrees, two 3 second squirts (with about a 3 second interval) brought the engine temperature to 185 degrees.  Subsequent squirts had no further effect on the engine temperature.

Scienfic minds will no doubt boggle at all this highly technical engineering and testing but I'm more interested in what ya'll think.  Does 2 degrees of engine temperature drop, from 187 degrees at 70 to 75 degrees of ambient air temperature, equate to 10 degrees of engine temperature drop from 215 degrees when the air temperature is at 100 degrees?
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gary t'berry
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2012, 10:54:48 AM »

""1)  Plumbed 1/2" pvc from house water system to a 1/2" copper pipe with 100mm holes drilled approximately 2" apart and mounted across the top of the radiator.

Sitting still, the mister dumps what appears to be a large amount of water.  I may have drilled the holes a might on the big size.  When the water squirts out it is more than a mist.  However, my mind envisions what could be a mist when at speed and a 50 mph wind is blowing across it. ""

Well, given that a 100mm hole is a tad under 4", and drilled at 2" centers in a half inch pipe, you may have chosen too large a hole size at that!   Grin

You meant to say 1.00 mm, no doubt...

Brian
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« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2012, 11:36:27 AM »

Gary, your 60 Series should have shut down at 217 at 210 a warning buzzer better have that checked they disable the shut down on fire trucks and other emergency vehicles could be what someone has done that to your engine 

A 60 series will run fine at 200 degrees water temp, not so good with hi temps on air intake at the inter cooler that is the only thing I have saw misters used for a 60 series,if your 60 series is running hot up the turbo boost that is a great thing about a 60 series more boost will cool one down were extra boost will not help the older 2 strokes me I am not a fan of band aids like the misting systems they are ok for patios in AZ lol

good luck
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2012, 12:28:37 PM »

Brian,

You are absolutely correct, I left out the decimal.  Thanks for the correction.

Clifford,

I really appreciate the heads up on the Series 60 running temperature.

Normal gauge reading when in cruise is 190.  It is only on a considerable uphill pull that the temperature begins to climb and, the arbitrary limit of 215 that I had set was from others who had advised me.  I value your opinion and will act accordingly.

How would you go about checking for the absolute correct temperature?  I have a Silverleaf system tied to the ECU, is that sufficiently accurate?  The Silverleaf and the original Eagle panel gauge agree.  That is, as close as you can read the original panel gauge.

While you are correct in that a mister is somewhat of a 'bandaid', if it will keep my engine within the safe temperature zone using little effort
and money, at my age and financial status I just might have to live with it. 
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gary t'berry
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« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2012, 12:47:20 PM »

I think that you will have to wait for a hot day to get an idea of how well the system works.  If you have 185 degree thermostats, they will not let the engine temp drop anymore.  Therefore, you can only guess at this point.
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2012, 02:02:19 PM »

Gary, if your 20 still has the piece of crap hydraulic fan drive do away that and convert over to the belt fan drive one from a Prevost works like a charm without a lot of fab work and the whole setup will cost you less than a fluid loss from a broke hose JMW
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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2012, 05:21:20 PM »

My bus has a Series 60 from the factory.  It runs right at about 195 degrees once warmed.  It will get as high as 200 degrees on a steep grade, but it usually sits right at 195.

The radiator was shot when I got the bus and the bus shut down due to high temp once on my trip home when I drove the bus home from the dealer.  I watched the temp gauge closer after that.  I took the radiator to a radiator shop and they found that stop leak had been used to close up pinhole leaks.  They offered me a new core or they could close up the bad tubes.  I choose to get a new core and the bus has never overheated since.  (I also replaced the water pump at the same time since it was easy to replace with the radiator out.)
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2012, 05:59:05 PM »

Gary, you want your "misters" to put out a "mist".  You do not want to flood the radiator core with a stream.  The cooling will work if the water (the mist) will evaporate.  The evaporation is what accomplishes the cooling effect.  Hope this helps.

GaryD
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Gary D

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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2012, 06:43:56 PM »

We used Patio Misters from Chinamart. They produce a fine mist. We fastened it to the intake grille with wire ties. The mister emitters can get clogged so a fine inline filter is advised. It did the trick on our series 60 going up the grapevine on a hot summer day.
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2012, 07:01:46 PM »

  Gary, you want your "misters" to put out a "mist".  You do not want to flood the radiator core with a stream.  The cooling will work if the water (the mist) will evaporate.  The evaporation is what accomplishes the cooling effect.  Hope this helps.
GaryD 

     Yeah, Gordon Jennings once printed an article (take that for what it's worth) that said that for the equivalent (I'm assuming mass) air and water for the cooling of a subject item, water is about 80 times more efficient at removing heat than air.  Water going through a phase change (i.e.. evaporation) removes about 400 times as much heat.  So Gary D is exactly right here - the effect you're looking for is evaporation.  Water that just splashes through the radiator isn't going to do you much good. 

     If you wanna keep up the Thomas Edison work there, you could run your bus until your way over thermostat opening with no water, then try it again with the system you have now (1.00 mm is about 40 thou -- I dunno why them Cannaydjins can't use feet and inches and speak English like Jesus did in the Bible -- so that a pretty big hole).  You could go back and do your test a third time with misters with a tiny spray hole to maximize evaporation.   I'm gonna guess that once you're a good bit above thermostat opening, any water will make a good difference but a fine spray will be notably better.  To be a really effective comparison, you'd need enough misters to move as much water as you're moving with the 40 thou holes, but I'm gonna guess that you'll get all the cooling you need with less than that.
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« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2012, 07:33:00 PM »

Ditto on mist vs. water. 
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« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2012, 07:46:46 PM »

Hi All, commuting in my MCI 5A with a 8V71 between LV&LA & vacationing in Az & Ca, I usually run into hill climbs in the heat. I bought a simple misting system from home depot, flex tubing, hard tubes wth brass mister ends assorted hose & connectors from irrigation isle, a 12v pump & RF on/off switch from Frys, the hose I was going to connect to the drain of fresh water tank, when I had thoughts about distilled water gallons or 2 1/2 gallon jugs that might keep sprayer nozzels from plugging up, definitly in need of auxillary cooling on hills, but how long would I use the sprayers? Before to after each hill? Just when it starts to heat up, or maybe just filter the water inline and use it liberally. tom...
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« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2012, 08:45:14 PM »

We had to build a misting system for the Blue Bird while sitting in the parking lot of a Lowe's (ambient temps were over 100F). We  were moving (NC to NM) and had a spare 30 gal Valterra tank, 12vDC water pump (too much gpm's), an on/off toggle switch, extra wiring (we salvaged all the wiring from the Eagle before we scrapped it) and a couple of drip irrigation garden kits packed in the bus (our moving van). A few extra parts (misters) were required but it made a pretty good system. The ladies in the garden dept were nice enough to let us fill the water tank with their hose (then gave us directions to take a primary road into NM instead of heading down the interstate in even higher temps than we had been experiencing). We were blowing the misters from the garden kit apart due to water pressure. Much ;later, we bought a small 1 gph Shurflo pump that will power the misters without blowing them to pieces. I do think a filter would be a good addition to any misting system. Nice thing about using the garden/drip irrigation parts is we can replace/repair at any Lowes, Home Depot, ACE hardware or True Value Hardware. I want to use filtered/softened water from our on board domestic water tank for the misting system (inline backflow valve will be used). The mineral build up was surprising for something that was only used for three days. I have two years to get it all done (in addition to finishing the bus conversion while living in a campground).

David simply watched the temp and when it started climbing, he flipped the pump switch on until the temp dropped at which point he turned the pump off.  It was a bandaid. We still have an engine that is running very hot for some reason. We do need to pull and possibly replace some of the radiator hoses. We suspect they are so old and weak, they may be collapsing. Or there may still be a couple of rocks stuck in a hose (bus was used to transport whitewater rafters in SC/NC/TN). But we don't know since we haven't moved the bus much except for the 1700 mile trip out here and the 150 mile trip in December to get to our current location (snow all over... no overheating). The radiator was flushed out (full of sand, rocks & a couple pounds of solder from a bad repair job someone did) re-soldered, new radiator cap and new fluids as we passed thru Texas (East Radiator Repair in Longview Tx... good place, nice people).
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« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2012, 08:21:29 AM »

There have been lots of thread on misters.  We had a pretty good one going on our Eagles International forum:

http://www.eaglesinternational.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2446

In that thread, I made the following post:

Quote
I stayed away from this thread for a while to see what would develop.

I do not have a problem with the radiator/water temperature, but many of you have followed my trials and tribulations with my charge air cooler. It is located on the side opposite the radiator (could not make it work on the radiator side and did not want to put am extra heat load on the radiator). I have worked very hard to get the air flow across the charge air cooler maxed out and have hit the limit. Under all but long climbs, the air inlet temperature is acceptable. However, on long pulls, the air temperature really starts to climb and the only way I can control it is with a mister system.

I have tried all kinds of nozzles including those intended for chicken coop cooling (neat nozzles).

From all of the various threads on the subject, I got ideas for different approaches. One theory is to point the nozzles away from the radiator to cool the air before it hits the fins. Never got that to work. Next, I tried fine spray heads (all kinds and numbers) and never really got much temperature reduction.

My last approach has been to use two of the nozzles that I furnish with my fire suppression system. They flow a bit over 1/2 gallon per minute with a large spray pattern. I am basically drenching the radiator. I use an electric switch and operate it for about 3-4 seconds on and 6-15 seconds off - depending on what my air temperature is. My SilverLeaf reads the air inlet temperature transducer and I can see an very fast response and major temperature reduction.

There are always huge debates on the forums about what kind of water to use. I use water straight out of the house supply tank (no filter, but it would be a good idea) and have not noted a calcium buildup. If I do, I will deal with that problem with vinegar or some variation of Lime Away type chemical.


As noted in my post, I have tried a lot of different systems and found a lot of neat nozzles.  One of the neatest nozzles were intended for use in large chicken raising facilities. 

One of the problems I found in the misting approach was the rather small distance between the inlet screen on the side of the bus and the radiator/air to air.  That really makes it difficult to get a good spray pattern on the radiator.

As noted, I have not found the misting approach to do much good.  My "flooding" approach works well for me and the delivery of the water is not nearly as critical.

Jim
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Jim Shepherd
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« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2012, 05:54:28 PM »

I made a 2 head mister system for each rad in our MC 5A. Each head flowed @ 2GPH. It sprayed slightly more than evaporated.  @ approx. 8" from the rads each head has a 8" "pattern"
I tried a 4 head 3/4 GPH each that wasn't as effective.
I ran out of our fresh water tank with a Shureflo 2.8 with an inline fuel filter on 1/4" lines. I used "all thread" rods for mounting the "heads. The biggest drawback was the "deposits" left behind. After awhile CLR wouldn't touch it, or anything else, for that matter. I had to remove them and have them "boiled". 
I've since added 2 additional rads and my heating issues are almost gone.

Don & Sheila
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« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2012, 10:20:45 PM »

Gary -

One of the major reasons busnuts have to install mister systems on their coach's radiators is because it's easier than taking all the excess weight out of their right shoe.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
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« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2012, 09:30:00 AM »

One of the major reasons busnuts have to install mister systems on their coach's radiators is because it's easier than taking all the excess weight out of their right shoe.

Could these coaches when new be able to be driven at full throttle up a steep grade without overheating?  It seems to me that on some grades you're going to need just about every bit you can get out of the engine just to stay moving at above a walking pace.
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« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2012, 01:27:41 PM »

The secret is to select a gear where you are not using "full throttle".  This may not be as fast as you want to climb the hill, but you must be at "partial throttle".  Selecting a lower gear will give you the torque you need to climb the grade. 

It is torque not horsepower that will get you up the hill.  Your transmission is a "torque multiplier".  Running the engine on a partial throttle will keep the engine from overheating. 

Try it sometime.  It worked on my 4104.  You could climb almost any hill in 2nd gear at 28MPH and she loved it!  Did I want to go faster, yes.  But, I wanted to get to the top of the hill!!

GaryD
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« Reply #18 on: April 23, 2012, 02:04:30 PM »

Everyone pretty much agrees that misters are a Band-Aid approach, and with a cooling system in good condition and good driving techniques, you should not need them.

If, however, you do use a mister system, I would caution you to use a dedicated water supply filled with distilled or de-ionized water.

I tried a mister on my home air conditioner with dramatic savings, it dropped the run amps by 40% but destroyed the condenser in about 5 months with calcium build up.
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« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2012, 04:35:29 PM »

FWIW, I just removed my misters on the 4106. I live and operate pretty much in the mountainous West or the desert in the Las Vegas area so heating can be a problem. I second the suggestions that are posted here. Last summer I made two trips to Yellowstone NP. and over to Cody and back to southern Utah. I had a friend running along with me who drove a 4106 for 15 years and he coached me through the very thing talked about here. High RPM  is truly the key. We went through a lot of work putting in the dedicated water lines and a separate pump only to find that I never used it. I did find out however that my Temp gauge was telling me fibs. A new dash unit AND new wire took care of that problem.
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« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2012, 02:34:25 PM »

I created a 15 head mister from Home Depot patio misting system connected to my water system through a 12v solenoid.  It worked OK, but wanted more.  I drilled out the bottom two misters with 1/16th" drill and aimed them up.  Now we're talking enough water that cools the engine in a matter of a couple of minutes.

One other thing that makes a difference, make sure your radiator is sealed well against the hot air recirculated back through.  I use Gorilla duct tape to seal the edges.  It makes a noticeable difference.

Yesterday climbing west bound I-40 from Needles in 90 degree weather, I took it easy at 43 mph (second gear [V730] at 2100rpm) and ended up at the top (which is the steepest part) at 195 degrees without the misters. Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #21 on: April 24, 2012, 03:02:48 PM »

90 degrees Tom you had to do it early was 108 at 4 pm lol

good luck
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« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2012, 07:40:40 AM »

Hey Tom:

Glad you brought up the point of sealing around the radiator to stop recirculating hot air.  That very suggestion was made to me by Ron at Eagle's Nest in Nashville only a few days before I installed the mister.

First off, here is the layout and dimensions of my radiator and intercooler.  The radiator measures 42" wide X 18" high. The intercooler measures 40" wide X 13" high and is mounted directly on top of the radiator.  The radiator also cools the generator so, a 17" diameter fan is mounted in front of the radiator on the left half to blow air through the fins.  This setup keeps the generator within it's temperature comfort zone when the bus engine is not running.  However, the small fan also runs any time the big engine is fired.

The mister tube (described in my original post) is mounted across the width of the radiator at it's top and sprays downward.  It would be a simple job to drill holes 180 degrees from the existing spray openings to 'mist' the intercooler - what you think?  Of course, that is a might premature until the present setup is tested.

Before installing the mister, I closed up all the openings surrounding both the engine and intercooler radiators.  Previously, (using all my Thomas Edison scientific skills - thanks Ooronjay) I had hung a towel out front of the radiator screen and, with the engine running at fast idle, the fans had pulled the bottom of the towel up against the door screen.  Once the closure pieces were installed, the same circumstances yanked the towel off it's holder and flat against the screen!  The openings surrounding the radiators had been approximately 6" on the left, 2 1/2" on top and, 4" to the right - they made a marked difference in the airflow!

Of course, the fan shroud is circular and on the engine side of the radiator which omits the pulling of air through the corner areas of the radiator.  In my mind, now that the surrounding openings are sealed off, the spillover effect from the big fan pulling more efficiently should cover the corner realestate to a greater extent.

With all this said (and it probably should have been mentioned before my original post) my point is that closing up the openings certainly made an obvious difference in the airflow.  So, without removing the closure pieces and testing the mister on it's own, my report to you later will be somewhat tainted.  It just could be that the additional cool air flow will suffice but, if not, I plan to turn on the squirter!



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gary t'berry
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« Reply #23 on: April 25, 2012, 08:00:33 AM »

Hi All, when I was a kid, driving to LA or back to LV, my Dad (along with most other desert drivers) would hang this canvas water bag in front of one side of the radiator filled with water, it worked like an evaporative cooler on the radiator. That was in the 50's and into the 60's when radiators started to get bigger and better. Maybe it should be looked at as augmenting the built in cooling system. Yankee inginuity, post WW2 also gave us thewindow hanging swamp coolers here in the southwest. Short term fixes, that lead to a longer engine life and more comfortable ride, lvmci...
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« Reply #24 on: April 25, 2012, 01:13:31 PM »

Hi All, when I was a kid, driving to LA or back to LV, my Dad (along with most other desert drivers) would hang this canvas water bag in front of one side of the radiator filled with water, it worked like an evaporative cooler on the radiator.


Hmm, makes me think of modern commercial evaporative cooling systems (as did the initial comment about using a stream of water and thus soaking the radiator).  Perhaps a holding membrane in front of the radiator/intercooler like one offered by Evapco (no stake/relationship with them).  It's likely that if mineral laden water was sprayed onto a holding membrane, any build-up should end up on the membrane, and not eat the radiator core.

Makes me want to put my money where my bus is for another cooling experiment...  Grin

-Tim
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« Reply #25 on: April 25, 2012, 02:37:20 PM »

I suppose, for that matter, one could use the same medium as is used on swamp coolers.
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« Reply #26 on: April 25, 2012, 03:52:32 PM »

Hi All, when I was a kid, driving to LA or back to LV, my Dad (along with most other desert drivers) would hang this canvas water bag in front of one side of the radiator filled with water, it worked like an evaporative cooler on the radiator.


Hmm, makes me think of modern commercial evaporative cooling systems (as did the initial comment about using a stream of water and thus soaking the radiator).  Perhaps a holding membrane in front of the radiator/intercooler like one offered by Evapco (no stake/relationship with them).  It's likely that if mineral laden water was sprayed onto a holding membrane, any build-up should end up on the membrane, and not eat the radiator core.
In humid weather it simply doesn't work. Putting the water ON the radiator gets rid of way BTU'S than trying to cool the incoming air.

Don & Sheila

Makes me want to put my money where my bus is for another cooling experiment...  Grin

-Tim

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« Reply #27 on: April 25, 2012, 06:58:35 PM »

I installed a radiator water spray system in my bus for pulling hills with my toad or trailer, and it is the only way I can make it without overheating and having the bus temp shut -down system kill the engine.  I'm okay with the stock radiator if I'm not pulling anyting, but the trailer/toad is too much for my cooling system.  And, I have been doing this for the last 6 years and have no calcium build up in my radiator.

P.S.  I used adjustable garden sprayers, not patio misters, so I get lots of water on the radiator and it cools down very quickly with a few 5 second sprays.  Gearing down is not going work for me.
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« Reply #28 on: April 30, 2012, 01:28:21 PM »

Hello Mr. Long,

Thanks for your comments concerning the mister system I installed in the Eagle model #20.  Your determination that the system is a bandaid may or may not be correct.  Your thoughts are shared by some very well respected wrenches in the business.   We'll know more in about six weeks as my brother, sister-in-law, my wife and I are about to embark (in seperate buses) on a western adventure into the high mountains and hot plains.

I'll give my best effort to the correct driving procedures, including a light foot and the imigination that the throttle is an egg. 

I have sought and followed professional advice as to the maintenance of the cooling system.  That has included shrouding around both the engine and intercooler radiators,  along with the everyday attention to fluid levels, thermostat, cleanliness, etc.

Twenty five years in the bus industry without one heat related shut-down is an impecable record Mr. Long.  How many of those were in an Eagle estimated to weigh 45,000 pounds with a 525 hp engine shoehorned into an opening sized for a much lesser powerplant and transmission of which the origanl engineers had not even dreamed?

Perhaps before condemning us old, financially limited, Thomas Edison wannabes to the "...simple..." category, you should give us the opportunity to try our hands at homespun engineering. 

If I can believe some of my fellow busnut engineers (and I do, both downtown and backyard varieties) the misters work in the situations for which they were intended - that being temporary, potentially high heating circumstances, that are short lived or, the water runs out!
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gary t'berry
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GMC RTS 102"  40er (in progress)
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« Reply #29 on: April 30, 2012, 05:03:24 PM »

Bump.  I can't believe what I read when what I do WORKS!



I installed a radiator water spray system in my bus for pulling hills with my toad or trailer, and it is the only way I can make it without overheating and having the bus temp shut -down system kill the engine.  I'm okay with the stock radiator if I'm not pulling anyting, but the trailer/toad is too much for my cooling system.  And, I have been doing this for the last 6 years and have no calcium build up in my radiator.

P.S.  I used adjustable garden sprayers, not patio misters, so I get lots of water on the radiator and it cools down very quickly with a few 5 second sprays.  Gearing down is not going work for me.
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Geoff
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« Reply #30 on: April 30, 2012, 09:10:54 PM »

Gary -

Not condemming anyone, just pointing out simple things.  Butnuts are some of the most creative folk I've ever run into when it comes to solving problems, or should I say, overcoming various challenges - chassis & house both.

FYI, All of the coaches I drove over those years were stock, often fully loaded w/ passengers & luggage.  MCIs are the most notorious for overheating stock cooling systems in our hot SW deserts, stuff a "monster motor" in the tail w/o any other changes and it was a recipe for disaster.  And some charter bus operators tried just that - I even had to go out a couple of times to rescue their passengers.  Not a pretty sight when you've got 40 people stranded by the side of the road in the middle of the Mojave Desert.  The company I worked for had a strict policy that if you overheated and shut down due to driver negligence, you were headed to the unemployment office.  You learn quickly under those circumstances!

I think you'll agree that if you stuff a 454 big-block in a Chevette, you're going to have problems w/o a lot of modifications.  Extreme example, but you get the idea.  Even Geoff, whom I have tremendous respect for, admits that adding the additional load of his trailer/toad to his coach taxes the stock cooling system.  So solutions have to be sought, as has been done.

With the two-stroke Detroits, the sweet spot for pulling grades seems to be in the 1700 - 1900 rpm range on a partial throttle.  Running it on the governor with black smoke pouring out the tailpipe is guaranteed to overheat the beast.  The Series 60 has a sweet spot that's several hundred rpm lower - TomC probably knows the range and can chime in with the numbers.  The key?  "Partial throttle!"

I guess my major point is this:  Most busnuts overheat their coaches because they're pushing too hard for the conditions and not paying attention.  Otherwise known as my tongue-in-cheek comment about excessive weight in your right shoe.

Perhaps the above helps explain why I often talk about Aesop's Fable of the Tortoise and the Hare.  Buses are not hares, yet owners often try to drive them that way.  Those who do end up with various problems, asking for solutions.  Those who drive their coaches like a Tortoise, arrive unstressed, happy and ready to roll again next time.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink


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RJ Long
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« Reply #31 on: April 30, 2012, 10:12:24 PM »

Yes the Series 60 sweet spot is lower in the rpm band.  Even though the maximum torque on a Series 60 is at 1200rpm, you want to be a bit higher around 1400 when pulling with a bit of pedal off the floor (I'm talking a 6% grade of more then 5 miles like the Grapevine, or west bound coming into Butte, MT).

On my 8V-71, I like running it in 1st gear with the torque converter locked up at 2100rpm for maximum coolant and fan action.  At 2100rpm, I'm at about 36mph-which is about the same speed as big rigs will pull a 6% grade at.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
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« Reply #32 on: April 30, 2012, 11:40:09 PM »

Gee,the MCI7 barely has enough coolihg for a 8V-71 on a cool day, why I took all the  stock stuff out, both radiators, gear box fan assy, and installed a 4' X 6' stationary radiator that had recored with a girdle to keep the tubes inplace.
This was done for the 12V-71 setup, worked OK, until I did the twin turbo setup, that is when I found the home made mister system so beautiful for mountain games.
Best toy I ever had.
Dave
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« Reply #33 on: May 01, 2012, 01:55:50 AM »


geoff put a mister on my MCI7, 8v92 auto, like he put on his when he rebuilt our engine. It works great now we can go up hills pulling our trailer without it over heating. I also go slow and keep the RPMs up. Dont care how fast I go up the hill as long as I go and do not overheat. Yes I had new radiators put in all leaks sealed and also a aux radiator built which is 24 inches wide 36 inches tall and two inches thick, it helped but the misters Geoff put it worked.
I live in central AZ across the mountain from Geoff so no matter where we go we have to climb long grades.
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« Reply #34 on: May 01, 2012, 04:33:25 AM »

Just a quick side thought. It was mentioned to use reverse osmosis or distilled water for your mister system. Has anyone looked into the effects of this long term on aluminum radiator fins? RO or distilled water can at times be high acidity. So much so that I read an article that discussed ways to protect metal pipe against RO water corrosion in third world countries where water purification systems are being set up by troops. Just a thought. I personally want to install a mister and I have an on board RO system currently. Just want to be sure I'm not eating away at my fins. Something about removing all minerals from the water raises acidity and lowers pH.
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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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