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Author Topic: What do u mean wen u say house batterys? inverter or engine start batterys  (Read 1403 times)
belfert
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« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2012, 08:54:48 AM »

Hmm.  Before anyone else speaks for me, I'll speak for myself:


I apologize.  I should have just linked to your original post.  Your post was only in the past month or less if memory serves me.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
rip
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« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2012, 11:24:33 AM »

No,they are rated as commercial,but not deep cycle.I do not dry camp a lot,but I have no problems with the batteries lasting overnight.I went to a Summit electric frig about four years ago and the batteries have no problems going overnight.I never let the batteries go under 50% and have my gen-set to come on if they do.
  Don
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johnjem
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« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2012, 04:37:25 PM »

OK i have to all sorted it out,many of u are using 8d batt  for ur house system, i get it know!!! i assmed that u only use them for the chassie batterys, i was wrong, for the house i use 8 6 volt batterys,
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Sean
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« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2012, 06:37:58 PM »

So if you went to a single bank of Batt's would you run every thing to a bus bar and then feed the inverter and start circuit or would you run thru a relay to start the road engine ( and remove the isolator I take it). If you run to a bus bar would you place the 300amp fuse that is now in the system after the bus bar?


Don, you don't want any fuses in the alternator/starter/battery pathway.  With a single bank, no bridge relay or isolator is required.

The way I would wire this is that the single battery bank would be wired to the alternator and starter exactly the way the OEM chassis batteries were, with a large switch to disconnect the alternator and starter from the batteries.  The "house" system would connect to the batteries through a fuse of the appropriate size, just as if they were house-only batteries.  So the inverter/charger and all house loads would be on the other side of that fuse from the batteries.

In this scheme, there are really only two connections to battery positive (one for the chassis disconnect and one for the house fuse) and two connections to the load side of the house fuse (inverter/charger and main DC panel) so there is not really a need for a buss bar.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
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Don Fairchild
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« Reply #19 on: August 02, 2012, 07:12:31 PM »

 Sean, thank you for your reply. I have 6 L16's that I am making a box for so I can install them in the coach, so given the single bank of batt set up I would move my cables from the start batts to the center tap of the L16's then I would also run the cables from the current house batt's to the center of the L61's. I would then keep the original wiring that is in the coach.This thing does not have batt disconnect on the start batt, it has a shut of switch that disables the start circut but does not shut of the battries. I could write a dissertation on the way this thing is wired but it may put several people to sleep.

Are you going to Bk's the 24th - 26th of this month. Would like to meet you and your wife.

Thanks again

Don
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rip
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« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2012, 04:46:44 AM »

Sean;
    That is how I have my wiring and it works.I  have a 400 amp breaker before going into my 4024 Trace inverter.
      Don
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white-eagle
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« Reply #21 on: August 03, 2012, 06:40:13 AM »

I always seam to have one bad 8D in the group every time I get ready to go on a trip. I replaced them all at the same time three years ago and have had to replace two of them one each year (They have a bad cell) and now have another one with a bad cell. I keep a batt tender on them when not in use and still will lose one a year. whats up with that.

Don

bad cells can be caused by all the material in the plates being shaken down to the bottom where it shorts out the cell, or because the batteries were defectively made, as in improper cure on the plate paste.  If it happens as often as you say, either change the manufacturer you buy from as they are not quality, or secure your batteries better so they don't vibrate.
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Len Silva
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« Reply #22 on: August 03, 2012, 09:40:46 AM »

I agree with a single bank IF you are knowledgeable about battery management, have and use a SOC meter, have a low voltage alarm and/or cutout, and your name is Sean Smiley.

One only has to look at many of the posts on this forum to see that many of our fellow busnuts are lacking in understanding of things electrical.

For those folks, a dual battery system with an isolator or solenoid is the way to go.

There is absolutely no disrespect intended here.  We cannot all know everything.
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