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Author Topic: Toilet Install  (Read 2105 times)
Tikvah
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« on: August 06, 2012, 11:05:15 AM »

I'm installing my new Thetford Aria Deluxe II.  The instructions show how to "replace" a toilet, but no information about the installation of the floor flange.

Do I go to the local hardware store and get a residential floor flange?  I will have 3" PVC going straight down into my tank.  What do I need?

The package came with a toilet "seal".  A residential toilet has a "wax ring"  This seal seems smaller than a wax ring.  Ideas?

Dave
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belfert
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« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2012, 11:44:39 AM »

I used a standard toilet flange like you can get at any home improvement or hardware store.  The foam gasket kinda fits more towards the center of the flange, but it works fine.  I'm not sure anything you buy at an RV dealer for a flange would be any different.

The instructions probably assume replacing a toilet on an existing flange.  It would be pretty rare to replace the flange in an RV unless the floor rotted out or something.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Tikvah
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« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2012, 11:58:08 AM »

That was my guess.

On a separate but related question.   What type of fitting do I get for the exit of my black tank?
Is this standard PVC schedule 40 or 30? 
Does it accept a male fitting, or the pipe?

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
wal1809
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« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2012, 12:15:52 PM »

I used a way ring from Home Depot.

On another note I saw your going to shoot a straight vertical pipe from toilet to black.  I wouldn't do that.  Mine is set up that way and there is no driving down the road with stuff in that tank.  The stank finds its way to the inside of the bus.  Not good.  I usually don't drive with anything in there.  I will no longer turn the key until I have that issue resolved.
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TomC
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« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2012, 12:44:07 PM »

Wal-sounds like your toilet ball valve is not sealing well.  When driving you should have about an inch of water above the ball valve to keep the stank from the tank.  If the water doesn't stay in the toilet-time to rebuild the ball valve.  Also, make sure your vent is building back pressure when driving.  I found that leaving the Fantastic vent in the bathroom cracked at all times makes a big difference. Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2012, 12:47:06 PM »

Tikvah-as to your tank drain-not sure if a PVC or ABS pipe will glue to that pipe flange.  I had the same kind of tank on my bus.  I simply took a female 3" ABS, cut a slit on either side, then used silicone to seal it and a U bolt to clamp it.  It works well-doesn't leak-but then you still have the advantage of being able to take the pipe off the tank if the need arises.  Good Luck, TomC
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wal1809
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« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2012, 12:48:47 PM »

Wal-sounds like your toilet ball valve is not sealing well.  When driving you should have about an inch of water above the ball valve to keep the stank from the tank.  If the water doesn't stay in the toilet-time to rebuild the ball valve.  Also, make sure your vent is building back pressure when driving.  I found that leaving the Fantastic vent in the bathroom cracked at all times makes a big difference. Good Luck, TomC

There is no ball valve.  There is the flapper in the bottom of the toilet and that is all.  Luvrbus was talking about a flapper but I think it was lower that the comode in the pipe.  Oh the tak is not vented either.
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Tenor
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« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2012, 12:59:21 PM »

Dave,
I also just used the standard residential plastic flange for my toilet.  No issues.  It was a snap to put in.  My toilet drops straight into the tank, and I have a some odor issue, but it is due to the blade that slides sideways not quite sealing properly.  The water does not stand in my bowl. 

Glenn Williams
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Glenn Williams
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Tikvah
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« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2012, 01:04:46 PM »

That's what I'll do then, I'll get a residential toilet flange and get that part of the job done.  I'm not worried about odor.  I will have a good vent and this toilet has a nice seal on the flapper.  Should hold water just fine.

I'm still wondering about the black tank exit.  The O.D. of the port in the picture above is 3-3/4".  I have a slide gate valve that is 3-1/2" I.D.  I don't know what to use.

Dave
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1989 MCI-102 A3
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« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2012, 01:24:05 PM »

Straight drop to tank is best.  If odor comes up, there is definitely a seal problem and maybe a vent problem too.
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« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2012, 01:30:55 PM »

I recently had to replace my dump valves, I had to cut the short piece of pipe glued between the tank and the valve not leaving much room to glue to so I purchased a Fernco flexible coupling which clamped over the socket end of the tank and over the socket end of the valve, it works real well and is not too rigid, the rubber also dampens the vibration, just an idea? remember to get a socket to socket coupling. and check O.D first. This also makes a great union when you need to service, or replace valves.
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Tikvah
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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2012, 01:32:37 PM »

Yup, I have a straight drop.  

I contacted the tank company.  This is their comment: "The 3 opening on that tank is like a slip fitting.  You put your pipe into it and clamp it down."

The inside diameter of the blank tank fitting is about 3-3/8" and the same for the dump valve.  So, I need to go to the hardware and find what type of 3" pipe has 3-3/8 O.D.  When I figure that out I'll post so it might help somebody in the future.  I can't image I'm the only person who doesn't already know Smiley   (or, maybe I am  Tongue)

Dave
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
Tikvah
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« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2012, 01:34:04 PM »

I recently had to replace my dump valves, I had to cut the short piece of pipe glued between the tank and the valve not leaving much room to glue to so I purchased a Fernco flexible coupling which clamped over the socket end of the tank and over the socket end of the valve, it works real well and is not too rigid, the rubber also dampens the vibration, just an idea? remember to get a socket to socket coupling. and check O.D first. This also makes a great union when you need to service, or replace valves.

Great Idea - Thanks!
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
John316
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« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2012, 07:37:10 PM »

Dave,

We have learned a few things. First off, a straight drop into your tank is essential (sorry Wal, gonna disagree with you here). If you put elbows in there, whee. Try plunging that thing. Yuk. Drop it straight down. Then your toilet should have a good seal and no fumes will come up. Make sure you have a vent on it and we have been hunky dor.

Also, I would suggest something a little heavier on the flange. Our first go around was the standard plastic house flange. A year later we were parked and wondering where that really bad smell was coming from. Then we find sewage leaking in our wet bay. Turns out the flange had cracked and was allowing liquid to leak out. We installed a metal flange with a SCH 80 (not SCH 40) drop pipe in there. Then Fernco onto the tank.

Just what we have learned.

John
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Dave5Cs
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« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2012, 08:10:02 PM »

Dave measure 3 inch ABS on the outside should fit inside.

We have 1.5 foot angled 3 inch ABS drain from toilet to tank center to center with 45 degree fernco fitting on the bottom and 45 degree same fitting at top which makes it easy to get the tank out if needed and never plugs up, no odor.

We also used a Schedule 80 flange only way to go. Run a bead of clear silicone under flange and then your rubber seal on top then your toilet and bolt it down with brass flange bolts. put a bead on color match silicone around base of toilet also.

I won't do the straight down shot because of the proverbial pile of poo which can block off the end of the pipe if not emptied in time. Just a thought.

Dave5Cs Cool Roll Eyes Grin
« Last Edit: August 06, 2012, 08:31:48 PM by Dave5Cs » Logged

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