Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
August 21, 2014, 04:57:47 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an E-Mag Subscription: The dog will not eat it.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: 1 2 3 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Best engine/trans choice for my Silversides  (Read 3968 times)
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« on: November 11, 2006, 02:49:01 PM »

I am in the process of converting a 1947 GMC PD3751 Silversides. My current engine/trans combo is the old 6-71 and four speed. Although I love manuals, this one has gotta go so my wife can drive it. What would be the best choice for my application. Also, my motor is tired, and although I may rebuild it, I want more power. Should I stick with the 6-71 and maybe convert it to a turbo, or swap in something like a 6v92t (which one is availble locally for a fair price along with the auto trans and everything else nessesary to to the swap). I would appreciate any and all opinions. I am new to the bus game, so any info would help.
Logged
RJ
Former Giant Greenbrier Owner
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2792





Ignore
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2006, 03:19:44 PM »

Keith -

The least expensive option would be to teach mama how to drive the OEM powertrain.  Not that difficult, she might even do it better than you!   Shocked

Not sure if a 6V92TA can be stuffed in a Silverside's engine compartment.  A 6V92TA / V-730 powertrain is the hot ticket for GMCs, but there are a lot of changes that must be made.  For example:

1. Driveline alignment:  On your coach, the bevel gears that change direction are located after the gearbox.  Starting with the later model PD4106, the bevel gears were located between the clutch and transmission.  This relocation also changed the offset of the rear axle pumpkin, from curbside to driver's side, IIRC.  If you try to use the 92/730 with your stock rear axle, you'll have terrible vibration problems as well as short-lived U-joints.  Throwing a 4106 or later axle under there may or may not work - those models all have air ride suspension, yours is steel spring.

2. Cooling:  A 6V92TA puts out a LOT of heat.  Moreso hooked to an automatic.  The small radiator opening currently on your Silversides probably wouldn't allow enough radiator to keep the beast cool.  Unless you want to carve up the sides to enlarge the opening (and destroy the classic lines of the coach in the process).

3. Weight:  A 6V92TA / V-730 is approximately 500 - 1000 lbs heavier than the OEM powertrain you currently have.  May or may not affect the handling of your coach.  But it will affect fuel mileage - it will be worse.

4. Fabrication:  May or may not be an issue for you, personally, but structurally modifying the engine compartment to stuff the bigger powertrain inside is not for the weak of heart.  The engine bulkhead is a major component of the chassis - any modifications require reinforcement to maintain structural integrity.


You mention a 6V92 available locally - be careful.  Is it a RH or LH engine?  If it's a RH engine, you could end up with only one forward gear and three/four in reverse.  There is insufficient room to stick a T-drive powertrain in a Silversides unless you lengthen the rear of the coach behind the axle.

Putting a turbocharger on the virtually unbreakable 6-71 would bump the HP up to 275, or about 40 more than a four-valve head stock unit.  That's about the maximum the bevel gears can take w/o breakage.

Finally, a Silversides is NOT a BMW!!  If you drive it like it's supposed to be driven, then you'll spend many an hour enjoying the journey.  If you try to drive it like a beemer, you'll spend many an hour frustrated.  It's a tortoise, not a hare (remember the kid's story?)  Grin

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink



Logged

RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
gus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3500





Ignore
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2006, 03:31:18 PM »

Keith,

I faced the same thing when I bought my 4104. I wanted my wife to be able to drive but it turned out that she loves the ride and is not unhappy not to be able to drive it, so all is well.

Being able to drive with an AT is good but it is very difficult for the average driver to get used to stopping a vehicle with this much weight.

The 6-71 may be one of the best engines ever made.

I wanted a 3751 or 4151 because they are so neat looking and lightweight, and that column shift is so great. Keep it the way it is.
Logged

PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
DrivingMissLazy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2634




Ignore
« Reply #3 on: November 11, 2006, 04:41:58 PM »

I really can not understand why anyone would want their wife to drive their coach. To me that is the fun of it, even if I have to drive 12 hours a day. No way would I want to turn that fun over to her.
Richard
Logged

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: November 11, 2006, 04:54:35 PM »

I drove the coach from San Diego to Detroit and the only time I wanted to dump the manual trans was in heavy traffic. My favorite Idea so far has been to turbo the motor, but I'm not sure where to start. Seems I am getting conflicting information about the turbo motors. I've heard some say that I can simply retrofit a turbo on my existing 4 valve motor, others say I cannot and need to start with a turbo motor in the first place.

The turbo motors I  have been able to view pics of all have the supercharger on the pass side of the motor, wheras I need the supercharger and turbo on the drivers side of the motor. Anybody know if this combo has ever been built, or do I have to piece it together.

Also, is there an auto I can use with my existing 6-71? I am not afraid to swap out the rear axle, I've done this on many cars and trucks, and have the knowhow to do this.

Lastly, part of my concern about horsepower is the fact that any slight uphill climb means downshifting to first or second in my bus, and doing less than 30 miles an hour. In all honesty, this can be a danger in any area, and illlegal in michigan (45mph minimum speed limit on freeways). I am not looking for a hotrod, but only to be able to keep a safe 40-60mph speed in most conditions. Considering my coach is gutted now, another several thousasnd pounds of conversion weight will not help the situation.
Logged
TomC
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6720





Ignore
« Reply #5 on: November 11, 2006, 11:38:53 PM »

I see two easy choices.  One is that you could turbo your engine.  If you install an air to air intercooler, upgrade your blower seals, and stay with no larger than the 7G75, you can turbo your engine.  Course, personally, I'd have it completely overhauled since you said it is tired.  By going to the air to air intercooler (mounted on the right side door) with the turbo above the trans, 7G80 injectors, bypass blower, you could easily have an engine that puts out 300hp with 900lb/ft of torque, compared to your 210hp and 600lb/ft.  50% more hill climbing power that would maintain the power up to 10,000ft with the turbo (I know the 4104 trans was rated at 1200lb/ft-don't know if it is the same).
But- I think the 6V-92TA and V730 would be the trick.  Little more power and good reliability.  With this setup, I'd use an air to air intercooler, or install an extra radiator in the right engine door.  Good Luck, TomC
Logged

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
4104bigred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 84




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2006, 06:01:28 AM »

hey keith this is chris in cadillac::::

how was the trip???  maybe you can share the ups and downs with all of us

on the low power problem my advice is to rebuild the 6-71 as you say it is tired.my 4104 has a new rebuilt 6-71 and has plenty of power for our michigan hills. go see david bryson at the harsens island ferry, ask him if he will help you rebuild the DD for more power I know he did the engine in johns silverside and he is really good with DD 6-71 BECAUSE THAT IS WHAT HE RUNS IN ALL THE FERRIES

chris
Logged
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2006, 07:19:38 AM »

When I talked to John, he said Bryson wrapped up more than $10,000 in his rebuild, and I cannot afford that any time soon. I have the knowledge and means to rebuild it myself (if it even really needs rebuilding). You are probably right about the michigan hills, but my wife and I fully plan to travel much of north america in this bus, so I want it to be very versatile.

As for the 6v92t swap, I'm not ruling it out yet. When I have time, I am going to take alot of measurements and see if I belive it to be feasable.

Lastly, on my trip from california, it was actually fairly uneventfull with exception to a few things. First was the fact that I had to add more water every 100 miles because compression is leaking into my cooling system. It heated up and the mototell shut the engine off right in the middle of a border patrol check station. Since it seemed to run better at night, I drove through the night, and even most of the day, so I made the 2500 mile trip in 3 days. Another thing is that at some time, someone wired the turn signals wrong, which I only figured out when I got home. Whenever I turned them on the front was flashing a different direction from the rear. Also, I had never driven anything this big, or with air brakes before, so my drive home was also my learning experiance. I managed only to clip one streetlight on the sidewalk in front of a cracker barrel on my way home. I figured out real quick I needed to make wide sweeping turns with the bus!
Logged
4104bigred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 84




Ignore
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2006, 07:28:36 AM »

YOUR PROPOSED 6V92 SWAP IS GOING TO BE VERY COSTLY sorry

the guys i have talked with that have done that swap have between 20 and 40 thousand dollars into it when done
also you can have dave and john help with advice and such and rebuild what you have for around 5 grand total

chris
Logged
4104bigred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 84




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2006, 07:31:43 AM »

FWIW   I feel that our rebuilt 6-71 has a enough power ,not a hot rod by any means and when we go through tn and ky we never go below 3rd gear

chris
Logged
lostagain
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1524


MC5C




Ignore
« Reply #10 on: November 12, 2006, 07:55:25 AM »

My '57 Courier 96 with 4-71 DD is slow up the hills like yours. I have researched and humd and hawd the last several month about an engine swap, and have settled on installing a turbo on my 4-71. I am going to leave the engine as is: N 65s, 4 valve head, trunk type pistons. The only thing is I am taking the blower to a DD dealer to install the better oil seals to withstand the added boost. The rad will stay the same. I have a Airesearch turbo on order that will give me 12 to 14 psi of boost max. I will mount it on the drivers side. That's the side the blower and exhaust manifold is. I'm mounting it onto the existing manifold. I'll have to build an adaptor, and plumbing for intake and exhaust. I'll keep the whole assembly below the level of the valve cover because I don't want to raise the dog house. I'll use the existing oil bath air filter I hope. That's my winter project. Fun, fun. I'll let you know how it goes.
Logged

JC
Invermere, BC
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740
TomC
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6720





Ignore
« Reply #11 on: November 12, 2006, 08:59:25 AM »

Lostagain- I highly recommend you change the pistons from trunk (one piece aluminum?) to the two piece with iron tops.  Your aluminum pistons won't withstand the pressure, and more the heat of turbo.  You should also install an air to air intercooler for better results.  I am doing the same with a 8V-71N, but it already has the two piece pistons that are high compression, so we're keeping the boost around 10-12psi.  Good Luck, TomC
Logged

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
lostagain
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1524


MC5C




Ignore
« Reply #12 on: November 12, 2006, 09:32:16 AM »

Tom, I have talked to 3 different DD dealer mechanics who tell me that my pistons shoud be fine. I will ask again though, since you have me wondering now. The only difference between a regular trunk type piston and a turbo-charged one is the one peace oil ring on the latter. The crown is the same.This is also partly the reason we are staying with the N65 injectors, so we dont create much more heat. (For the rad too). They're saying N70 might be OK too. I'll look into the intercooler idea as well. Is that for cooling the air between the turbo compressor and the blower? How does it work? Is it like a little rad? I see the one discribed in the DD service manual is a water cooled unit.
Logged

JC
Invermere, BC
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #13 on: November 12, 2006, 03:00:22 PM »

I'm not sure where the numbers came in for the engine swap, but I can have anything I want from the drivetrain of the bus with the 6v92t for $1,500. Being that welding and fabrication doesn't scare me, I'm not sure how I could possibly reach those number. All in all, I'm willing to bet that if I do the whole swap myself, I could keep it under four grand.
Logged
tekebird
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2263





Ignore
« Reply #14 on: November 12, 2006, 05:49:56 PM »

I think you will find yourself SOL.

You won't find anything that will fit trans wise without alot of cutting same goes for any V engine

Turbo is an option but there is not enough radiator room for the biggrer rad your gonna need.

Rebuild what you have, it will push it nicely when fresh
Logged
gus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3500





Ignore
« Reply #15 on: November 12, 2006, 07:23:02 PM »

Keith,

Did you get this bus from HB Industries in El Cajon? Bob there had one for sale. I tried to find a 3751 for a long time but couldn't find a decent one, lots of junk out there. If you drove from SD to MI in three days it can't be too bad!!

Please do yourself a favor and drive this powertrain for a while before you change anything. I've driven my 4104 from VA to AR to NV and back and AR to Seattle via AZ and CA and back, a total of  14,000 miles in less than a year.

If the engine is shot you can get a good used one for a decent price. This is a very good engine and your bus is light compared to most monster buses.

Sure you go slow up hills and mountains, but that is half the fun, you see things you never see at 70mph! Nobody will ever give you a ticket in a heavy vehicle for driving slow. On multi-lane hwys just get into your lane and breeze along as best you can.

There is nothing unsafe about a slow moving large vehicle, drivers just go around you and most hills and mountains have slow-moving vehicle lanes, you just join them and sometimes you can even pass a truck uphill with the 6-71! Sometimes!

In heavy traffic give yourself plenty of space to the next vehicle-this is no hotrod-so you don't have to shift so often also put the trans in neutral and coast along when level or going downhill, this saves the clutch leg. The clutch can be adjusted to tolerable pressure if it is done properly and all the loose pins and forks are repaired or replaced. Done that.
Logged

PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #16 on: November 12, 2006, 07:43:52 PM »

Yes, I bought bobs bus. It was (and still is) the cleanest silversides body I've ever seen. It does need a few small things to be perfect externally, such as one cab light, and at least one cargo bay door. Otherwise, the rest is very presentable and restorable. I probably already have more into this bus than it's worth, but hey, isn't that part of the game? I'm not really sure I need a complete rebuild, here is my motor 1. Leaks compression into the cooling system (and did the entire trip home from cali-but I don't think bob knew anything about this-might have happened shortly into my trip). 2. Does belch black smoke at lower speeds, but don't they all? 3. Runs pretty much smoke free when warmed up. 4. Tends to run between 190-220, this might be part compression leak, part inaccurate gauge? 5. Doesn't start if it's under 60 degrees outside without ether (I hope to purchase a water heating system soon). 6. Leaks oil, but not horribly, All together I went through 6 gallons of oil in the 2500 mile trip home, however the first 4 were all in the first 200 miles and the bus had been sitting for a long time. So, how about it guys, how does my engine sound? Also, any thoughts as to what my compression problem is? I have been told by several it probably is a cracked head, or bad cylinder 0-ring (I do have a 4 valve motor). Could this be repaired without removing the entire engine, or am I looking at a complete overhaul?
Logged
tekebird
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2263





Ignore
« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2006, 08:16:54 PM »

if you are leaking compression into the cooling system you will have coolant in your oil...get an oil annalysis done....it will also tell you if you have other wear issues.

it should not belch black smoke at any speed, only if you are luggin it....6-71 like to be run

temp, hard to say whats going on there....220 is time to shut down

I am guessing it is just tired...and if bob couln't tell you when it was overhauled last then assume it needs it.


when they took apart the 6-71 we took out of my 04 when we put the crate new one in....they were supprised it was still running it was so worn out...LOL

just goes to show you how well the 2 strokes are built.....no series 50/60 is ever going to run when worn out
Logged
RJ
Former Giant Greenbrier Owner
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2792





Ignore
« Reply #18 on: November 12, 2006, 08:39:38 PM »

Keith - 

1.  Compression in the cooling system:  Most likely a cracked head. Start searching for either another head, or a shop that can repair yours.  Probably coolant in the oil, too.  Get an oil analysis kit from any local diesel dealer and send it in.  Around $25 or so.

2.  Belching black smoke:  First, check the air filter and make sure it's clean.  Second - DON'T LUG the engine!  Detroits belch a lot of black smoke if put under too much load at too low rpm.  Black smoke is too much fuel and too little air.  Gotta drive it like you just slammed your finger in a door!  Wind it up, keep it wound up!

3.  Runs pretty smoke-free when warmed up:  That's good!

4.  Temp of 190 - 220:  Put a mechanical gauge in the engine compartment to compare to dash.  Higher temp can also be related to the compression in coolant.

5.  Doesn't start under 60o outside:  Call Luke for the correct engine block heater, 1-888-262-2434.  Also a function of lower compression from leak.

6.  Leaks oil:  Detroit two-strokes are like male dogs - they have to mark their territory everywhere they go.  Seriously, 400 miles/gallon of oil is excessive.  Should be up in the 1500 - 2000 miles/gallon range.

If you're going to pull the head to repair it, it's not that much more difficult to do what's called an "in-frame" overhaul.  Would probably solve 90% of your problems, and give you the majority of your power back, too.

Besides the fabrication issues previously noted, the major problem with stuffing a 6V92TA in the tail would be trying to cool the beast w/o cutting up the classic lines of the coach.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
Logged

RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
gus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3500





Ignore
« Reply #19 on: November 12, 2006, 08:45:45 PM »

Bob is a great guy. i go by and have him do some work when I go out there every Spring. I tried to buy a consigned 3751 from him two years ago but while I was haggling with the owner a guy from TX bought it sight unseen!!

1 This is your biggest problem as I see it Checking the head bolts torque might help but I doubt it.
2.Normal, keep it revved, no lugging. Also smokes on hard pulls if you use too much throttle. Black smoke is the signal to back off or down shift.
3.Yes
4.Should run around 175-180 except on long pulls in hot weather. 220 is probably too high.
5.Normal. I use ether in cool weather. There should be a small cup on the right upper side of the air box intake for inserting ether. Just spray a small amount into the cup, close the lid, walk around to the front and hit the starter. Works every time.
6.Normal. Don't fill it to the top, I run one-half to one gallon below full. You probably are throwing most of it out, probably around the rear main seal-mine does this.  However, there are many places for oil to leak. Check around the vent line from the crankcase to the governor. This is a common leak spot.

Your rings were probably stuck. That bus had been there a long time. I didn't buy it because I wanted one mostly converted. I'm too old to start a complete conversion. You were extremely lucky to drive that bus that far with no major problems.

I'm no DD mechanic go I won't give you any technical advice, I'm going by my experience with mine in the past year and a half.

Heads can usually be repaired on any engine without removing the engine. I think pistons, rings and liners can also-not certain of that. Find a good DD old timer-Repeat that!
7.
Logged

PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR
DrivingMissLazy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2634




Ignore
« Reply #20 on: November 12, 2006, 09:14:49 PM »

One thing that the guru's did not ask was what motor oil are you using? If it is anything other than DElO 100 40 wt or its equivalent, then that could be the cause of excessive oil consumption. When I finally found out that I was using the wrong oil (15/40), and changed to the correct oil  my consumption dropped 50%.
Richard
Logged

Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming:  WOO HOO, what a ride
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #21 on: November 13, 2006, 05:38:18 AM »

Well, thank you all for the help. Let me touch on a few things. Yes, I orignally was running 15/40 (at bob's reccomendation) but was told by several to go to a straight weight oil. I have not done a complete oil change yet, but since I started using straight 40, oil consumption has decreased greatly. The bus does not leak alot. A few drips here and there, but no real puddles. The oil analysis is a good idea. I just assumed that if there was coolant in the oil, I would see the typical "mayonasse" that you see in a gas engine. I see none of this, however my coolant has turned black with diesel smoke.

I think you guys have sold me on keeping the engine, and eventually turboing it, so I'll ask more questions in the future about that. I probably will overhaul my own unit, however what should I excpect to pay for a crate 6-71 on exhange?
Logged
gg04
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 86


Full throttle 'til you see God




Ignore
« Reply #22 on: November 13, 2006, 08:06:22 AM »

The easiest swap is a 671ta ddec from a 89 to 96 transit...same left hand engine with a control box from a ford or gmc with the same motor adjustable from 220 to 350 hp.....Have over 50,000 on mine with really no problems...drives like a late model... Best other engine swap I have ever looked at was RW's with a series 50 and a auto....really clean swap into a Silversides....all doable at home..gg04
Logged

If you personally have not done it  , or saw it done.. do not say it cannot be done...1960 4104 6L71ta ddec Falfurrias Tx
tekebird
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2263





Ignore
« Reply #23 on: November 13, 2006, 08:55:49 AM »

you might want to check barnhart Bus in PA, they have some nice pics of a repower on a 37/4151

as for your cold starting......it should start on it's own well below 60 without heat or either.

if it is not it's because it can't produce enough compression (heat) to ignite fuel

you should easily be able to start down to around freezing without heat or either with batteries that are in good shape.

Logged
tekebird
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2263





Ignore
« Reply #24 on: November 13, 2006, 08:56:49 AM »

http://www.bernhardbus.com/1947_silverside.htm
Logged
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2006, 05:30:56 PM »

The easiest swap is a 671ta ddec from a 89 to 96 transit...same left hand engine with a control box from a ford or gmc with the same motor adjustable from 220 to 350 hp.....Have over 50,000 on mine with really no problems...drives like a late model... Best other engine swap I have ever looked at was RW's with a series 50 and a auto....really clean swap into a Silversides....all doable at home..gg04

Do you have any pics of this swap? Where are you located, is there any chance I could see it in person. That kind of horsepower should handle an auto fine, if there is one that will bolt up.
Logged
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #26 on: November 13, 2006, 05:35:45 PM »

I googled that engine and came up with nothing. What brand of bus did it come in?
Logged
gg04
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 86


Full throttle 'til you see God




Ignore
« Reply #27 on: November 14, 2006, 06:50:10 AM »

671ta ddec's are from flex metros and redone gmc rts's ....series 50 and cummins from the same models with reversers and 730's or voith transmissions....the 671ta ddec is a direct bolt in replacement..you can keep your original trans...or use the auto...enough power for either...same power and torque as a 6v92 but in alot tougher package...everyone told me when I started this conversion it would destroy the trans and driveline if I turned up the HP and torque...didn't happen..best To buy a complete donner bus ..that way you have all the parts to do auto trans if you want to..plus upgrade brakes and steering if wanted...gg04
Logged

If you personally have not done it  , or saw it done.. do not say it cannot be done...1960 4104 6L71ta ddec Falfurrias Tx
TomC
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6720





Ignore
« Reply #28 on: November 15, 2006, 03:00:42 PM »

Keith- in my opinion-it is time for a overhaul.  2 stroke engines should start unaided down to the high 30's.  I was in Grand Canyon for two days in late April.  Down to 38 at night. I started the bus on the second morning from the rear in case of needing starting fluid.  It rotated about to revolutions and fired up a bit rough with white smoke, but within a minute was smoke free running smooth-and this at over 6,000ft elevation.  Also, I get about 2,500 miles on a gallon of oil (8V-71N).
If I were you, I'd overhaul the engine to turbo specs, install an air to air intercooler on the right transmission door, install the turbocharger above the transmission, and run 7G75 injectors.  This will give a comfortable 300hp @ 2,300rpm, with 840lb/ft of torque-or about the power output of the 8V-71N.  Because of the air to air intercooler on the other side of the bus from the radiator with electric fans, you probably won't have to increase the size of the radiator, althgough it would be a good idea to have a row or two of tubes added.  I have seen this setup on a 4104.  The 4104 owner said made for a hot rod, and with the turbocharging, will not smoke at high altitude.  Would be neat to see a turbo on the 3751.  Good Luck, TomC
Logged

Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #29 on: November 15, 2006, 04:14:51 PM »

Thanks, that is along the lines of what I was thinking. My radiator is brand new, so I'll probably try using it first, but if the temp rises, make it bigger. I've also thought of adding an additional radiator where the factory a/c used to be.
Logged
gg04
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 86


Full throttle 'til you see God




Ignore
« Reply #30 on: November 16, 2006, 09:53:19 AM »

If you want to build your own check out all of the DD marine dealers around you...they are the best places to find nos DD parts...nearly all the new parts are Made In China...a couple of the aftermarket parts suppliers claim to still sell made in the USA parts..the over the trans turbo manifold is either right side 12v71 or one of three marine manifolds..just goes by how you want to route the exhaust...and how far back you want the turbo..good luck  gg04
Logged

If you personally have not done it  , or saw it done.. do not say it cannot be done...1960 4104 6L71ta ddec Falfurrias Tx
keithshotrodshop
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 52




Ignore
« Reply #31 on: November 16, 2006, 03:13:47 PM »

Thanks. I am still weighing back and forth my options, but that is very helpfull.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!