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Author Topic: Alcoas  (Read 1794 times)
christopher
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« on: October 04, 2012, 07:25:58 PM »

Where is a good reasonable place to buy Alcoas?
Thanks
Chris
mci5c
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Scott Bennett
Scott & Heather MCI-9
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« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2012, 07:49:41 AM »

I personally am looking for a set too. But....there's a small chance I am getting a set given to me in the next month... crossing fingers...but I'll be watching this thread too. Used is better than new right?
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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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belfert
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« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2012, 08:50:01 AM »

Used is not necessarily better than new for aluminum wheels.  Aluminum wheels can have cracks in them.  Also, aluminum wheels can wear at the mounting holes.  You just have to know what to check to be sure you are getting a good set of wheels.

There are companies like Fleetwheel that restore aluminum wheels by polishing them and machining them, but you only save maybe 30% over new.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
flynbanjo
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« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2012, 09:39:23 AM »

I bought mine from Youngstown Kenworth in Hubbard Ohio.  I spoke to them this morning and a current price is $300.00 each for the steering and tag and $317.00 each for the drive.  I had them ship two wheels to my home in Florida for about $50.00 each wheel. 

I attempted to go the used route at first and found that the price difference was less than $50.00 each and the used wheels didn't match and were really beat up. 

I should mention the wheels I asked them about were 22.5 X 8.25 stud pilotted
Phone number 800-321-2056
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Steven
81 MCI MC9
Hudson, Florida
wagwar
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« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2012, 04:28:29 PM »

Most likely, if your bus had steel wheels on it, you will also have to replace much of the hardware that holds the wheels on: studs, inner studs, etc. My research tells me this can add $1000 to the cost of switching to aluminum. Just FYI.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2012, 08:14:41 PM »

More too it that just buying wheels so many people buy wheels and never know what inset or offset their bus takes then it drives like crap fwiw
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BJ
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« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2012, 11:44:06 PM »

hey guys there is no need to spend all that money for aluminum wheels, just go to your local truck salvage I paid $75.00 @ for my polished wheels. Freight liner wheels and they look great.
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Scott Bennett
Scott & Heather MCI-9
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« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2012, 05:37:21 AM »

Bj pics? Would love to see :-) cliff, I've heard you mention that before.
What is the inset/offset?


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
TomC
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« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2012, 09:26:49 AM »

If changing from steel to aluminum, the studs usually have to be changed.  On the rear you can sometimes get by with the normal studs by using an offset inner wheel nut (if it is a stud positioned wheel [2 nuts per stud]).  If it is a hub piloted wheel (one nut per stud) then your wheel stud has to be the right length.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
BJ
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« Reply #9 on: October 07, 2012, 11:09:55 AM »

you do have to replace the studs due to improper length. Do Not Attempt to use the Old Studs. they are to short and pose a very big safety hazard.. I ordered mine through MCI and the local charter garage installed them when I had my bus serviced. The price was not all bad for the parts and installation...far from $1000, closer to several hundred, maybe three..lol
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luvrbus
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« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2012, 11:24:34 AM »

You can not buy the studs for all 3 axles from MCI for 300 dollars that must have been front axle only  


Scott inset is the depth of the wheel inboard from the mounting surface, outset the outboard distance from the mounting surface

 Makes a huge different if your bus was setup for a 1-1/2 inch inset and you do a 3 inch inset it severs3 purposes 1 is the caster setting which buses don't have much of , it keeps the wheels off the brake drums and away from the heat then the driving it really affects the turning radius but the guys here don't worry about it as long as they have nice shiny wheels lol

good luck
« Last Edit: October 07, 2012, 11:48:14 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Scott Bennett
Scott & Heather MCI-9
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2012, 02:27:58 PM »

Mucho thanks Cliff.
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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
BJ
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« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2012, 10:24:39 PM »

I did not say I purchased the longer stubs yesterday or even last month. It was around 4 years ago. For the stubs and installation I spent somewhere around $300.  I have no idea how much they are today but I think I will inquire for my own satisfaction.
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trucktramp
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« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2012, 10:05:24 AM »

I replaced my steer axle studs a couple years ago along with the seals and it was around $300 for everything.  I think the studs were about $10 each.  Not terrible but if you're doing all 3 axles, it will add up.
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Dennis Watson
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Scotts, Michigan
1966 MCI MC5A
8V71
Spicer 4 Speed Manual
flynbanjo
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« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2012, 10:23:15 AM »

Last year MCI charged $16.00 each for the studs.
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Steven
81 MCI MC9
Hudson, Florida
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