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Author Topic: Looking for Mini-Splits  (Read 7202 times)
luvrbus
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« Reply #30 on: November 01, 2012, 11:32:09 AM »

I have been doing a little research on the splits today the same btu output applies to those as any ac or heat pump the 12,000 btu is only achieved with the fan on high speed @ max hp the btu's drop with different setting on fan speed a 12,000 btu unit drops to around 9,000 or less on some on low fan speed

I still don't see why the low amp draw would benefit a rv using a generator anyone care to enlightened on that one
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Oonrahnjay
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« Reply #31 on: November 01, 2012, 11:42:53 AM »

I have been doing a little research on the splits today the same btu output applies to those as any ac or heat pump the 12,000 btu is only achieved with the fan on high speed @ max hp the btu's drop with different setting on fan speed a 12,000 btu unit drops to around 9,000 or less on some on low fan speed

I still don't see why the low amp draw would benefit a rv using a generator anyone care to enlightened on that one

    If someone has a 15 kW generator, low current draw on two or three units makes not a hill of beans.  I've chosen a much smaller gennie (for a number of reasons -- initial cost, physical size, noise level, fuel consumption, etc.) and three 15 Amp units, in addition other loads, would probably mean that I couldn't run all three units without severe "load reduction".  Or maybe I couldn't run all three at the same time.  The same principle applies to shore power -- we all think "I've got a 50 Amp plug" but many times were restricted by power supply design to 30 Amp or even less.  (And, of course, you can't really pull a constant 30 Amp from a 30 Amp supply socket without being in great danger of blowing fuses or breakers, etc.)

    For some people, the low amp draw doesn't matter; some other people might be able to live with a higher steady draw but blow breakers with startup current; other's might find that their families would rebel at not being able to use electric appliances when the air conditioners are running.  But with my "keep it simple, keep it appropriately sized, keep it small enough to fit in the vehicle" approach, the low amp draw does apply.

    Just my way.    BH  NC   USA
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Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
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luvrbus
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« Reply #32 on: November 01, 2012, 12:10:41 PM »

Now you made my point why have 3 and you can only run 1 a generator is sized to run everything in a RV as most of the time you can run only run 2 roof tops if you are careful on a 50 amp plug but a generator will run all 3 at one time amps should not make a difference when on a generator jmo

It is fashion to have a breaker 2 times the amps draw I read the the 12,000 btu split requires a 20 amp breaker why if you only use 9 amps ?

I also see as Sean posted 220v is the way to go 3 of those would create a problem in most RV parks
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Zeroclearance
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« Reply #33 on: November 01, 2012, 12:33:42 PM »

It's interesting that most folks are buying the cheap splits..   For a few hundred dollars more you can get a Sanyo which is now Panasonic or a Mitsubishi.   I think that it was Mitsubishi who really started the mini splits.   I have purchased two 1 ton Sanyo's on clearance.   I have seen a Soleous up close and the Sanyo spanks it for construction and materials.   The condensors are thicker and look more heavy duty vs the Soleous unit.   Time will tell.   

Interesting enough the lower priced units are mentioning the Sanyo components.   They don't look the same when you pull the covers off.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #34 on: November 01, 2012, 12:41:33 PM »

To much of a price difference in the units to be the same to me  IMO
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sledhead
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« Reply #35 on: November 01, 2012, 02:57:32 PM »

I have a rooftop low profile rv ac in the bedroom that we almost never use too much noise,too much air flow.we use a small fan to move the air from the front split unit to cool the whole bus when camping. I have a 30 amp 120 volt plug,prosine 2000 watt inverter charger ,3500 watt inverter gene that we hardly use.Almost all the state and provincial parks we stay in only have 30 amp plug- ins . When we started the conversion way back in 2006 I tried to build as efficiently as possible .Lots of insulation ,low power draw,simple heating and cooling . How things have changed, original appraisal in 2006 on the rv was   $ 210,000 for insurance. Ha! sold sold sold! In today's world at the price of used bus/rvs I have decided to lower my standards so I have too much invested in it now.But as a hobby I love it                         dave
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belfert
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« Reply #36 on: November 01, 2012, 05:01:58 PM »

Now you made my point why have 3 and you can only run 1 a generator is sized to run everything in a RV as most of the time you can run only run 2 roof tops if you are careful on a 50 amp plug but a generator will run all 3 at one time amps should not make a difference when on a generator jmo

I ran two 15K BTU rooftops for at least a month this summer on just a 30 amp service.  Only tripped the breaker once when I tried to run too many things at once.  Granted, I didn't have the fridge (or anything else) running, but I did have the inverter running in charge mode.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
luvrbus
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« Reply #37 on: November 01, 2012, 05:17:28 PM »

Good breaker Belfert 2 will draw more than 30 amps running I have never saw a rv even setup to run 2 on 30 amps most have a switch of some type to change ac units
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jjrbus
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« Reply #38 on: November 01, 2012, 07:52:51 PM »

I had an electronic dohicky in my RV,  it would run 2 roof air on 30 amp by not allowing them to start at the same time. I gave it to Gerry Jenkinson, don't know what became of it?   JIm
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belfert
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« Reply #39 on: November 02, 2012, 05:29:20 AM »

Good breaker Belfert 2 will draw more than 30 amps running I have never saw a rv even setup to run 2 on 30 amps most have a switch of some type to change ac units

My bus is wired for 50 amp service.  I use a 50 amp to 30 amp converter at home as my home electric was installed for my previous 30 amp travel trailer.  The specs for the Carrier units show them using under 15 amp each, but we all know specs lie especially when the temps were in the 90s outside.  I don't know why it worked, but it did work.

I wouldn't mind having 50 amp service at home, but the cost and difficulty of running the wires stop me.  Since I can run both rooftops on 30 amps I just postpone the upgrade.
« Last Edit: November 02, 2012, 05:33:33 AM by belfert » Logged

Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
Mex-Busnut
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« Reply #40 on: November 02, 2012, 04:16:12 PM »

Tikvah:

So far nobody has said anything about how to install the outside units. Now mind you: I am no expert. Please go to my build thread, page 3, and look at the pictures.

http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=22081.30

I placed one on the driver's side, and one on the passenger side of the same bay. Of course, we had to cut square openings in the cargo bay doors, and protect them with expanded metal. We also built scoops to vent them through the floor. Floor openings were protected with expanded metal. If my pictures there don't help, let me know, and I will take a few million more.

These units we bought here in Mexico take a maximum of 8.5 amps, @ 127 volts. These are one ton (12,000 BTU) units, and also have heating strips. We have a 3 KW nominal (4 KW peak) inverter, which should run them O. K. running down the road.

Also (somebody else give your input) maybe a 9,000 BTU might be small for the driver's area going down the road in the sun. That windshield takes a lot of heat!

I wish you success!
« Last Edit: November 02, 2012, 04:29:55 PM by Mex-Busnut » Logged

Dr. Steve, San Juan del Río, Querétaro, Mexico, North America, Planet Earth, Milky Way.
1981 Dina Olímpico (Flxible Flxliner clone), 6V92TA Detroit Diesel
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100 miles North West of Mexico City, Mexico. 6,800 feet altitude.
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« Reply #41 on: November 02, 2012, 04:29:00 PM »

Dr. Steve,

Thank You.  Those are the first pictures I've seen of mini-split installation.  Pictures are worth so much to me.

You said in your post, "When traveling, there is higher air pressure on the side of the bus, than under the bus".  Is this true?  So, I should pull air from the side and vent down through the floor?  I would have done just the opposite. 

As far as the 9000 BTU size... first, our climate is much cooler than yours.  Second, my coach is heavily insulated with spray foam.  Third, I hope to have driver AC while the engine is running.

Dave
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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
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Midwilshire
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« Reply #42 on: November 17, 2012, 05:34:29 PM »

Dave, did you pull the trigger on a mini-split yet?  -Mike
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Michael & Gigi
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Tikvah
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« Reply #43 on: November 17, 2012, 05:36:58 PM »

Not yet, but soon
Probably two 9000btu inverter type
I think about $725 each


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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
Midwilshire
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« Reply #44 on: November 17, 2012, 05:47:29 PM »

Where you puttin the forward indoor unit?  Same place as Dr. Steve? 
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Michael & Gigi
1978 MCI-5C "Silverliner"
Full-timers in the DC area
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