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Author Topic: 4106 Starter Bolt Removal  (Read 4144 times)
eagle19952
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« Reply #15 on: October 28, 2012, 07:52:25 PM »

if it moved at all a 15/16 wobbly socket with 3/8 drive would get it out..
in my career the arctic makes lots of decisions for you...if you had 45 belly dumps at 25 below zero waiting on a starter....you might be looking for a new job. So you'd figger out any way to make that not happen twice.
having said that ive never touched a gm coach but i have named a lot of delco MT starters,which by my eyes, from the pics, that one may be clocked wrong.
if you have 3 studs you have something i have never dealt with.2 yes 3 no.
bought a lot of sneakers for my kids nursing these tho
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Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 NA, DDAllison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.
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travlinman
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« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2012, 07:57:29 PM »

Baker - I would be very interested to know what type of nut you have on yours. It does seem that it should not be this hard. I'm not kidding when I say the socket will not go on to the nut as the space between the engine and the nut is just to small. I've tried a 3/8 and 1/2 drive 12 point craftsman socket.

Clifford - Fortunately we are not on the side of the road, camped in a great spot really.

TM
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Steve & Kristen Full time nomads since '06 - PD4106-674  8V71/V730
Rick 74 MC-8
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« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2012, 08:15:46 PM »

With the other bolts loose could a starter have shifted a little putting it up against that nut
          u

            Rick 74 MC-8
« Last Edit: October 28, 2012, 08:43:29 PM by Rick 74 MC-8 » Logged

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fortyniner
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« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2012, 08:17:27 PM »

I guess your going in from top access hole. When I did mine I ground as much of  the shoulder off a 3/8 drive socket as possible. Then used a long extension.  12 point for reinstall.
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Tom Phillips
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eagle19952
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« Reply #19 on: October 28, 2012, 08:35:17 PM »

why a person would not correct a situation that caused all this grinding and wobbling and heartache is beyond me. Embarrassed
good luck.
see ya.
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Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 NA, DDAllison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.
Wants Paint Smiley
Previously owned by Wee Willie Ent.
eagle19952
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« Reply #20 on: October 28, 2012, 08:38:07 PM »

I guess your going in from top access hole. When I did mine I ground as much of  the shoulder off a 3/8 drive socket as possible. Then used a long extension.  12 point for reinstall.would that be a 12 point bolt....
why a person would not correct a situation that caused all this grinding and wobbling and heartache is beyond me. Embarrassed
good luck.
see ya.

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Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 NA, DDAllison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.
Wants Paint Smiley
Previously owned by Wee Willie Ent.
luvrbus
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« Reply #21 on: October 28, 2012, 08:51:21 PM »

It is not that big of deal with the right stuff the hard part is getting it out and back in it's not one of favorite jobs replacing a starter on a GM but even for this old guy 1 to 2 hrs tops you really appreciate changing starters on a Eagle,Prevost or MCI after a GM lol Steve will get it done

good lck
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Dave5Cs
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« Reply #22 on: October 28, 2012, 09:12:37 PM »

there is always a Torch  to heat the tool and bend it to work. done that many times, Ford distributor brings back memories. I also cut nuts with a dremel and cutting wheels when needed.

Dave5cs
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travlinman
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« Reply #23 on: October 28, 2012, 09:54:15 PM »

It is not that big of deal with the right stuff the hard part is getting it out and back in it's not one of favorite jobs replacing a starter on a GM but even for this old guy 1 to 2 hrs tops you really appreciate changing starters on a Eagle,Prevost or MCI after a GM lol Steve will get it done

good lck

Well when I eventually find my Eagle at least I won't have this to deal with!

Cheers

TM
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Steve & Kristen Full time nomads since '06 - PD4106-674  8V71/V730
Fred Mc
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« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2012, 09:16:01 PM »

I have a 4106 and have had the starter out a number of times over the years. I took a 15/16 box end and ground enough off so it would fit. I "suspect" a snap on wrench wouldn't need grinding but I generally can't afford  snap on so my tools aren't as "fine" as snap on. I have always replaced the starter from the top. Someone on here a while back suggested when removing and re-installing the starter on a 4106 , tie a rope around the starter. It helps a lot.

Good luck

Fred
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Len Silva
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« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2012, 05:17:44 AM »

It only took me about ten minutes to pull the starter on my 4104 Roll Eyes
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luvrbus
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« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2012, 05:09:56 PM »

Have we gotten the starter off yet Steve ?
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Lin
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« Reply #27 on: October 31, 2012, 05:20:59 PM »

When I had to remove my starter, it was quite difficult.  A Bakersfield mechanic that shall remain unnamed was a much stronger torquer than I was an untorquer.  One of the bolts seemed unmovable.  In desperation, I attached a cheating bar to my wrench, put as much pressure on it as I could, and locked it in place that way.  The hope was that the sustained pressure might loosen the bolt overnight.  The next day, I was able to remove the bolt with a hefty struggle.  I do not really know if the strategy worked, I was stronger the next day, or I just got lucky.  However, if ever in that situation again, I would give it another try.
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chessie4905
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« Reply #28 on: November 01, 2012, 08:47:23 AM »

you could try a 3/8 drive 6 point socket and grind some taper on the end of it so it will wedge in there further. Just figure some way to get it driven on far enough that it won't "spit off". A short wobble extension added might help to avoid side force on socket. If that fails, a dremel with a tiny carbide bit might help make more clearance. Grind on the nut only, as the starter looks to have a thin threaded boss in that area. Get a 12 point nut to replace it once it is off, or a 12 point bolt.
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travlinman
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« Reply #29 on: November 01, 2012, 09:48:35 AM »

Starter Update-

So after wrestling with that nut all day Saturday and Sunday I had to give up on Monday, so I started calling for some help. First I went to the local diesel shop "Britt's Diesel" And they were super cool. Britt let me borrow two different types of crows feet. Back up to the bus I went and we tried both tools to no avail. Next we called our mechanic in Eugene and he wanted to start from the beginning with diagnosis. Why not I said that thing is not coming off, this is where we get really lucky. We tested the exciter wire, that was good and then we bypassed the solenoid and and hooked the hot cable directly to the starter, using the disconnect as a switch. And, yes the starter did spin! When I was jumping it before I must have connected the cable to the wrong side, live and learn! So, Monday afternoon I went out in search of a new solenoid and exhaust manifold gaskets. Britt's computer showed no solenoid but he took the time to go through his parts inventory and I got lucky again. In the back of the room, on a top shelf was a 12 volt solenoid. Sweet ! Had gaskets as well so I was set. Well or so I thought, I had decided to replace one of my ground cables as it was a bit suspect. I went to NAPA got cable and ends and they can't find their crimper! After this I decided to go climbing till they could get a new one in. Yesterday they made up my cable and I bolted everything in place. The starter turns the motor, now I just need to secure wiring and air lines and hopefully it will fire up!

Thanks to everyone who posted here, Britt at Britts Diesel, and John at Midlane.

Cheers

TM

PS I think I am going to have a nut removal contest at the NRG!
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Steve & Kristen Full time nomads since '06 - PD4106-674  8V71/V730
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