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Van
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« Reply #30 on: November 01, 2012, 10:18:55 AM » |
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Hi Steve, had the same issue with the starter in our 15, couldn't understand it, cables all nice and clean (terminals) still a no go. It wasn't till I started rechecking the +/- cables by Physically twisting them near the terminals that I heard a crunchy sound, that I discovered and over heated chassis ground, after cutting open the cable most of the wire fell out like powder. Luckily for me, there was plenty of cable left after cutting the bad stuff off. Made new terminal ends for it out of 1" copper pipe, and Viola! back in buisness! Best of luck to ya and hope you guys make it out here for the 10th. Be safe out there   Van |
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If you are not living on the edge, then you're takin' up too much space!!!
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luvrbus
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« Reply #31 on: November 01, 2012, 10:28:15 AM » |
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Glad you are up and running Steve fwiw I never thought you had a starter problem most of the time a starter will give a tell tale warning in advance before giving up
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Life is short "Drink the good wine first"
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fortyniner
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« Reply #32 on: November 01, 2012, 06:45:53 PM » |
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Hey Steve, now that you can move the bus you might want to back up on ramps and swap out and loosen that nut or even replace it with a 12 point bolt. Someday you may have to pull that thing out from the top in the middle of nowhere.
-Tom P.
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Tom Phillips
PD4106-453
PD4106-2864
87 Alfa Milano
93 Range Rover
87 190e-16 Mercedes
92 Jeep Comanche
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bobofthenorth
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« Reply #33 on: November 01, 2012, 07:13:30 PM » |
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Hey Steve, now that you can move the bus you might want to back up on ramps and swap out and loosen that nut or even replace it with a 12 point bolt. Someday you may have to pull that thing out from the top in the middle of nowhere.
What he said X 2 |
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R.J.(Bob) Evans 1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd My websiteOur weblogSimply growing older is not the same as living. |
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eagle19952
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« Reply #34 on: November 01, 2012, 08:43:57 PM » |
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« Last Edit: November 01, 2012, 08:50:03 PM by eagle19952 »
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buswarrior
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« Reply #35 on: November 01, 2012, 08:50:03 PM » |
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yes, what they said X 3.
the evil bus spirits will track you down.
Trouble you know about always comes back to get you.
There is no stress to working on a tricky fastener on a working part at home or in friendly waters.
Quite the opposite when you are stuck someplace with an overly zealous enforcement officer demanding you move now or else...!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
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travlinman
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« Reply #36 on: November 01, 2012, 09:09:33 PM » |
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Hey Guys that for the feedback,
Considering that we spend most of our time camped in the middle of nowhere it is my plan to pull that nut off as soon as I can. Right now I'm not quite sure how I will get off short of cutting it. That I am very reluctant to do while we are on the road. So, it works now and I also have a few other more pressing maintenance needs. So the starter will have to wait, I am lining up some shop time for December so hopefully I can do it inside. That would be much more pleasant for sure.
I know you guys have some ideas on how to get that thing off so post up. Remember that I have tried standard sockets and wrenches and that is not happening for sure!
Hope to see a few of you in Vegas!
TM
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Steve & Kristen Full time nomads since '06 - PD4106-674 8V71/V730
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Boomer
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« Reply #37 on: November 01, 2012, 09:52:09 PM » |
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Steve, didn't we talk about taking the solinoid apart first, lol? If you get around to taking the nut off eventually (either by chisiling, cutting, or whatever) you could replace the stud with a good quality allen head bolt. Tighten and lock tight the hell out of it. Should have plenty of clearance then. Good luck.
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'81 Eagle 15/45
'47 GM PD3751-438
'65 Crown Atomic
Vancouver, WA USA
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luvrbus
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« Reply #38 on: November 02, 2012, 05:23:44 AM » |
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If he removes that stud and replaces it with a bolt he will have oil leaks as that is a wet flywheel on 8v71 and v730,his rear motor mounts maybe causing his clearance problems
Me I just open the ac door on the drivers side and use a long extension and 15/16th his problem may also be someone has rotated the solenoid to much to clear the manifold that nut is not hard to remove somebody tighten it lol so it will come back off
good luck
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« Last Edit: November 02, 2012, 05:49:54 AM by luvrbus »
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Life is short "Drink the good wine first"
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06 Bill
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« Reply #39 on: November 02, 2012, 05:50:18 AM » |
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As Luvrbus says studs only, btdt had leaks with bolts. Sealed and replace studs all OK. 06 Bill
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bevans6
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« Reply #40 on: November 02, 2012, 05:56:08 AM » |
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If reduced head diameter and 12 point for wrench clocking is an issue, you can get 12 point head reduced diameter nuts to go onto studs. Self-locking or not, with large diameter base so you don't need a washer under.
Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C converted
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
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luvrbus
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« Reply #41 on: November 02, 2012, 06:13:10 AM » |
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They will leak I have seen and replace the bolts with studs where people have changed over to the DD star flanged starter bolts covered in gasket sealant or cooper washers trying to stop the leak but let him change it makes no difference to me
good luck
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Life is short "Drink the good wine first"
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Rick 74 MC-8
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« Reply #42 on: November 02, 2012, 08:44:55 AM » |
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Put in a longer stud use a spacer before the nut
Rick 74 MC 8
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About 20 Miles West Of Chicago
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luvrbus
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« Reply #43 on: November 02, 2012, 08:59:42 AM » |
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You don't want longer studs for sure lol I am a big fan of the GM but the guys at the factory knew what they were doing 95% of the time
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Life is short "Drink the good wine first"
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eagle19952
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« Reply #44 on: November 02, 2012, 11:28:38 AM » |
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Well I had no idea about the wet sump....making a socket similar to a fuel tube wrench might work....I still wonder if the starter is clocked proper or red loctite is in play here ?
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