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Author Topic: 4106 floor replacement  (Read 600 times)
Darkspeed
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« on: November 07, 2012, 08:08:57 AM »

I am down to the plywood floor and I know i have to replace the sheet under the drivers seat and possibly the sheet at the rear.

Should I just replace all of it? is there any advantage to a full replacement? Im guessing that patching is not a good idea.

I think it would be nice to delete the aluminum seat tracks in the floor while i am at it.

Can i remove the floor all at once without twisting, shifting, distorting the mono.

Thanks
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Todd
4106-1070 6V92T + V730
RJ
Former Giant Greenbrier Owner
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« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2012, 09:04:44 AM »

Todd -

The floor is a major component of keeping the chassis "square."  Thus, you must thoroughly block the coach to prevent any type of movement before replacing the plywood.  (Note:  That access hole in the floor behind the rear wheel is to get to the OEM HVAC compressor.  Don't seal it with the new floor - send me a PM for the reason why.)

You'll need LOTS of bolts & nuts!

IIRC, the seat tracks are tack-welded to the bulkheads.

Since you've got the coach stripped to a shell, after you replace the floor, seriously consider spray foam insulation.  Best bang for the buck.  If you've got an 18-wheeler trailer repair facility nearby, talk to them about the guy who spray foams the reefer trailers after they're fixed.

Please don't put a fiberglass cap on the rear - it ruins the "classic" lines of the 4106.  Just paint those glass replacement panels gloss black so they look like smoked glass.  Ditto the front destination sign - matter of fact, if the mechanism is still there, you can get a new roll sign curtain for it and choose your own "destinations!"

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
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« Reply #2 on: November 07, 2012, 09:09:31 AM »

Others more knowledgeable may comment.  If it were me, and I was going to replace the entire floor, I would very carefully block up the bus, dead level at all four corners, before removing or replacing the floor.
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Darkspeed
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« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2012, 09:36:24 AM »

Thanks RJ, I dont like the fiberglass caps too - Im keeping it stock looking from outside including all windows -

When i do an airstream i waterproof the interior skin with a 'liquid roof' paint then 1/8" of ceramic spray on thermal block hsc-1000 from supeior coatings ( AWSOME stuff!!!! ) then spray in 3" of closed cell e85 foam.

So my plan is the same for the bus, im spacing out with furring strips from the steel ribs for the 3.125"

I would like to get OEM looking motion insulated windows as well.

Replacing one sheet at a time should be ok if its block well and level.

The OEM AC compressor is no longer there - empty compartment
« Last Edit: November 07, 2012, 09:43:08 AM by Darkspeed » Logged

Todd
4106-1070 6V92T + V730
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« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2012, 05:12:18 PM »

The OEM AC compressor is no longer there - empty compartment.

Todd -

Send me a PM regarding this.  Click on the little speech balloon icon under my avatar to do so.

RJ
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
akbusguy2000
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« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2012, 08:41:48 AM »

I took a different approach in my own 4106, although my floor was probably in somewhat better shape than shown in your pictures.

You may notice on examination that the floor extends under the sidewalls on both sides of the coach.  I don't know how it could be removed, but it could be cut off and a new piece butted up against the remaining part.  I chose to leave the original floor in place, but cut out a few bad areas which I replaced with new marine grade plywood cut and fit to each repair.  These were bolted in where applicable and the unsupported edges were attached with a backer piece of the same material, lots of glue and screws.

The seat rails on the wall are bolted to the ribs and can be removed easily.  As for those in the floor - don't even try to remove them.  I took a heavy duty router (a milling tool would work better) and shaved them down to the floor level.  I think it was only about a quarter to three eights of an inch that had to be removed - and it went well.

Finally, after sealing the old floor as needed I let it dry well, then covered it over with waterproof paper, followed by a new 1/2" marine plywood and a lot of 1-1/4" drywall screws.

This method may not work for you if you turn out to be a half inch too tall, but it worked for me, and saved me a heap of work.

tg
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