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Author Topic: Lots of smoke  (Read 4072 times)
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« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2012, 05:49:41 AM »

Jim  I had my 6v92ta rebuilt 2 years ago ,the temp never got up to 180 f after rebuild ? I replaced therm,gaskets ($120.00) now the new ones work as they should (170 f ) On my front gage 180 f and on the lazer at eng about the same . The old (or new at rebuild ? ) therm. looked good but could have been stuck? For the money and little time it took to replace, the temp. now is right . Oh ya maybe my fuel millage will be better. Ha ha.   dave

dave , karen
1990 mci 102c  6v92 ta ht740  kit,living room slide .
2000 featherlite vogue vantare 550 hp cat
 home base huntsville ontario canada
Tony LEE
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« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2012, 01:13:18 PM »

How would I know if I'm overcooking the CCA?

or even what that means.

My AGM Deep cycle batteries do have a CCA rating from the manufacturers data even though it isn't shown on the battery label.

The system off cranking for 10 or 15 seconds and then letting it sit for 20 seconds and then repeating it a couple of times can get you started in cold weather when continuous cranking doesn't work.
Supposedly works because compressing the air heats it up and this soaks into the cylinder walls thus slightly warming the combustion chamber to the point where the fuel will ignite. Possible works even better with the fuel shutoff held in so that there is no cooling effect from the fuel vapourising. It also gives the cold batteries a chance to recover slightly in between rather than rapidly dying from long continuous operation. Perhaps the plates also heat up a fraction as well and that makes a slight difference when every little bit extra helps

Also works on my Onan diesel generator that has faulty preheat system


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« Reply #17 on: November 18, 2012, 02:05:26 PM »

Lifeline AGM marine deep cycle do have CCA but the RV deep cycle has cranking amps only (CA) I don't know how the other brands  are rated, so many peel and stick labels on batteries it's hard to tell what you have 1 manufacture under 10 different names is not uncommon for batteries 

Life is short drink the good wine first
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« Reply #18 on: November 18, 2012, 02:21:40 PM »


I see no reason for your battery connect switch to be a momentary ON?

I use my connect switch to charge the house batts from the engine alt while driving so a mom sw makes no sense to me, however, your setup is probably different.

My 4104 w/671 used to smoke like that when the temp was anything below 40 so I just used the original ether cup, worked well every time.

Lots of folks dislike ether and it may not be a good idea on a 92. On my 4107 w/8V71 I prefer to use the block heater but have used ether in a pinch.

As someone, engines seem to differ a great deal in cold starting.

The long cranking ideas are good if you have strong batts.

Ash Flat, AR
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« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2012, 08:34:54 AM »

Thanks to all,

My house battery switch has 3 positions: off, on and MON. If the engine is running and the alt. is charging, the On position activates a solenoid to bridge that batt banks after a 30 second delay. The MON position activates the solenoid - whether the engine is running or not. I could change the switch to on off on, I suppose. The Mon is a 'fail-safe' or 'idiot proofing' so that I don't bridge the banks accidentally. Under most circumstances, the only time I want them connected is when the engine is running and charging.

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