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Author Topic: Bus skin  (Read 3053 times)
chazwood
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« on: November 15, 2012, 06:06:09 PM »

Is there a contact for getting a piece of side skin steel that's 35 ft long? My non-bus suppliers are all scratching their heads.
Thanks!
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1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
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Thekempters.com
robertglines1
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2012, 06:28:54 PM »

CK  IBP    in Appoka Fla
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Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
superiormotors
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2012, 06:47:35 PM »

Check with your local heating and cooling store and ask who their sheetmetal supplier is. Contact the supplier and see if they will sell you a coil of sheetmetal the length, width and gauge you want. That's what I did, got mine from Ryerson Steel.
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robertglines1
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« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2012, 06:52:16 PM »

If your skinning over windows 18 ga is lowest I would go. 16 ga is better.  For wrinkles in sun.  Experience here.   If you want stainless with ribs IBP.   Bob
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Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
buswarrior
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« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2012, 06:58:57 PM »

IBP Industries in Florida:

http://www.ibpindustries.com/

They will match the fluting on pretty much any coach made.

They have worked with many busnuts on custom work, large and small.

Give 'em a call and see if they can help with your idea, or give you some new ones to chew on.

Has anyone heard anything from Rich in awhile? He used to be with this company, and then moved on to something else that escapes me at the moment...

happy coaching!
buswarrior


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Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
chazwood
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« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2012, 07:32:22 PM »

thanks for the info, I'll call in the morning. for now anyone know how much a steel skin for one side should run price wise? ball park would be fine.
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Thekempters.com
TomC
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« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2012, 10:26:17 PM »

No bus from the factory used a single continuous piece of sheet metal. You too should match the lower panels as to length-the bus manufacturers usually had many more engineers figuring these things out.  Good Luck, TomC
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Tom & Donna Christman. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.
robertglines1
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« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2012, 05:33:41 AM »

5 stainless  panels with correct pattern for banner area aprox 40 inches high $$2000.  Cold roll 18ga in 4 by 10ft  sheets about $160 each.  I like the cold roll just seams to hold paint better and sun wrinkle less;old lesson from hot rod days-still prefer 16 ga. The weight differance in the big picture is in?   I just bought the stainless for my damaged sideing on Prevost.   Bob
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Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
Jeremy
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« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2012, 06:07:39 AM »

No bus from the factory used a single continuous piece of sheet metal.

Not wishing to be argumentative, but my bus certainly has full-length skins - one piece of galvanized sheet from front to back, held on with nothing other than polyurethene adhesive (ie Sikiflex or equivalent). I don't know how thick it is in 'gauge' terms, but it's at least 1mm thick I would say - I know that it's fairly heavy stuff to cart around beacuse I've had to cut large pieces out as part of installing the slideouts.

Jeremy
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chazwood
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« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2012, 06:13:53 AM »

Mine is a continuous piece also.
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1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
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Thekempters.com
chazwood
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« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2012, 09:04:46 AM »

I guess if I bought a 1000ft roll I could get a continuous piece.
 I'm going to settle for tack welding on a 7 inch strip along the bottom and be done with it. I plan to bus-wrap our logo along that area anyway, so, as long as it's relatively smooth it should look fine.
Found a piece of 5x10' steel for $40 locally. Or better yet, a 20g piece of galvalume steel (which is what's on the bus now) for $70.
Looks like I will be tacking until Christmas.
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1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
6V92
Thekempters.com
robertglines1
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« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2012, 09:44:09 AM »

Do it your way! with the gal make sure to rough (sp) the surface good to get good paint adhesion. You got to remember there is no rite or wrong for sure.  Just what works for you.!!Let me know how the adhesive works. I've been chicken so far with all the problems Prevost had with the XLII and have spent millions re-doing coaches ..  Bob
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Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana
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« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2012, 07:15:32 PM »

That worked better than I expected. I just clamped the new piece over the rusty area and used a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut thru both pieces. This left me a perfect cut out with a 1/16 gap. Next I tack welded the new piece in with a spot weld every 4 inches on the first past then every past thereafter I just devided what was left until I had a solid weld.
Grind that down and put a thin layer of primer and bondo. Ride by on a fast horse and it looks pretty good!
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1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
6V92
Thekempters.com
Scott Bennett
Scott & Heather MCI-9
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« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2012, 10:50:25 PM »

I know some of you say aluminum waves, but we used 1/8" thick stuff. No waves. Come see ours. Looks amazing. Just our way.


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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zukmancdr
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« Reply #14 on: November 18, 2012, 05:12:28 AM »

When you install the metal, it needs to be on a hot day. If you put it on during a cold day, the metal is shrunk and during a warm day the metal expands to give you waves.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
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