Bus Conversions dot Com Bulletin Board
October 01, 2014, 03:12:00 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: If you had an E-Mag Subscription: It can be read on any computer, iPad, smart phone, or compatible device.
   Home   Help Forum Rules Search Calendar Login Register BCM Home Page Contact BCM  
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Bus skin  (Read 2968 times)
chazwood
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 430



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2012, 07:16:38 AM »

I would have preferred aluminum skin but it does not come in 35 ft lengths. My old 82' had rivets all over the sides but the 92 has smooth sides. Kind of wanted to stay with that look.

On a different note. When I bought the bus a month ago I noticed the skins were bulging out noticeably. I thought the steel frames under the windows were rotted at the bottom and the skin was the only thing holding up the roof. When I looked under there everything looked great. ( partially due to the fact that the bottom sill is made of stainless steel). So what was causing the buldge you say? This year bus has sections of ridgid foam insulation in between the frame work. The foam was sticking out proud of the metal by 1/2 inch. It had to be built that way. Crazy. When you rivet the skin to the metal, at top and bottom, the foam pushes out the middle causing this slightly bloated look. I was happy to know the frame was fine.
What caused the skin rust?
The black rubber trim and channel covering the top row of rivets catches water. Eventually the water rusts out the center part of the steel rivets inside the channel  and water leaks down the back of the skin and gets caught in the plastic wrap glued to the skin. There it sits and does it's evil work. I think I will just eliminate the channel and rubber trim and just paint over the rivets.
Logged

1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
6V92
Thekempters.com
Slow Rider
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 669




« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2012, 07:46:32 AM »

Hi Chaz,

Glad you found something that works for you.  It would help a lot if you would put your general area ( country, state, province, etc. ) and the type of bus you have in your signature.  You might find a bus nut lives close by and at least it help folks recommend places if they knew your general location.

Frank
Logged

The MCI has landed..... We are home.
Dale City Va.  Just a southern suburb of DC
Yes I am a BUSNUT
1976 MCI MC8
chazwood
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 430



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #17 on: November 18, 2012, 07:05:17 PM »

Good idea, Frank. I actually went into the profile earlier today to try and update the picture and info and leave a link to a website but couldn't get it to gel. Must call in the experts. (my kids)
 I drive a 1992 MCI 102c3 with a L10 cummins and a push button ht740 or hd740 Allison. With a little rust under the belly but a flawless interior and good looking outside. And what's more...every single little button on the whole bus actually still works. Amazing.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2012, 07:10:31 PM by chazwood » Logged

1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
6V92
Thekempters.com
Jeremy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1889


1987 Bedford Plaxton


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2012, 01:49:16 AM »

This year bus has sections of ridgid foam insulation in between the frame work. The foam was sticking out proud of the metal by 1/2 inch. It had to be built that way. Crazy. When you rivet the skin to the metal, at top and bottom, the foam pushes out the middle causing this slightly bloated look.

Chances are that the skin was installed first, and then expanding foam injected between the outer skin and inner panels (assuming there are inner panels). The expansion force of the foam is considerable, and will easily distort sheet metal

Jeremy
Logged

A shameless plug for my business - visit www.magazineexchange.co.uk for back issue magazines - thousands of titles covering cars, motorbikes, aircraft, railways, boats, modelling etc. You'll find lots of interest, although not much covering American buses sadly.
Oonrahnjay
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1447





Ignore
« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2012, 06:28:36 AM »

Chances are that the skin was installed first, and then expanding foam injected between the outer skin and inner panels (assuming there are inner panels). The expansion force of the foam is considerable, and will easily distort sheet metal

Jeremy

    That's what I was thinking, too.  Because of this, there are now different "expansion" grades for spray foam installation (at least, they're available in the US -- I'm assuming that they are in the UK, too, Jeremy).  Usually "door grade" spray foam has less expansion force so if someone's spraying into an area that's covered by a large flat piece of otherwise unsupported sheet metal, it might be good to use that.

     FWIW,  BH    NC   USA
Logged

Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
6-cyl, 4-stroke, Leyland O-680 engine

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)
chazwood
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 430



WWW

Ignore
« Reply #20 on: November 19, 2012, 06:50:41 AM »

Nope. This foam is cut to fit foam. Individual pieces inside the frame openings. Nice smooth beveled edges.  Loose from the framing.
 I sprayed in the foam on my 82 and this stuff is different. It's thicker than the frame material and therefore stands the skin off a bit.
Maybe the skin on the inside has bowed in and is pushing out the foam, but I seriously doubt it (having removed inner skins before.) These inserts just look too thick for the job.
« Last Edit: November 19, 2012, 06:53:57 AM by chazwood » Logged

1983 Eagle Bus Model 10
6V92
Thekempters.com
Oonrahnjay
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1447





Ignore
« Reply #21 on: November 19, 2012, 06:18:04 PM »

Nope. This foam is cut to fit foam. Individual pieces inside the frame openings. Nice smooth beveled edges.  Loose from the framing.
 I sprayed in the foam on my 82 and this stuff is different. It's thicker than the frame material and therefore stands the skin off a bit.
Maybe the skin on the inside has bowed in and is pushing out the foam, but I seriously doubt it (having removed inner skins before.) These inserts just look too thick for the job.

    Interesting.  I'm stumped at that.
Logged

Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
6-cyl, 4-stroke, Leyland O-680 engine

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)
ChrisP
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 7




Ignore
« Reply #22 on: November 28, 2012, 03:27:08 PM »

http://busconversion101.com/one_piece_blank_out.htm
Logged

ChrisP
1981 MCI 9
Nashville, TN
busguy01
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 163




Ignore
« Reply #23 on: November 28, 2012, 03:38:58 PM »

I replaced the roof skin on my MCI EL3 - one piece nearly 40' long and 8.5' wide. got it from MCI - Just a thought.  It is glued down and we streched it as it was installed - good time to have several good friends!
JimH
Logged

Started with nothing - still have most of it left!
1963 Eagle 01 with Detroit 60 series done (Gone-sold!)
MCI EL3 in progress. raised roof & Slides
2009 Revolution 42 Sticks and staple
Summer - Yankton, South Dakota
Winter- Port St Lucie, Florida
Scott Bennett
Scott & Heather MCI-9
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1286


Scott & Heather


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #24 on: November 29, 2012, 07:43:56 AM »

Jim, that piece you got from MCI, was it aluminum? And how thick was it


Sent from iPhone via Tapatalk
Logged

Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!