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Author Topic: Pipe wrap on 4106 - Asbestos?  (Read 1640 times)
Darkspeed
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« on: January 01, 2013, 09:14:39 AM »

Anyone know if the white woven insulation on the 4106 water lines is asbestos?
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Todd
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« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2013, 09:33:49 AM »

 That stuff was applied in the 60s,, so probably is.>>>Dan (Its ok as long as you don't disturb it)
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Utahclaimjumper 
 EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
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5B Steve
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« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2013, 10:47:27 AM »

Anyone know if the white woven insulation on the 4106 water lines is asbestos?


  You have ask a good question, I'm wondering myself if there would be any health issues in the future if indeed

  that is the case. Might be something to look at.

  Steve 5B......
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Dave5Cs
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« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2013, 11:28:26 AM »

If you are worried about it which is under the floor anyway and is not very much, you can cover it with some latex paint brush it on a couple of coats and that will seal it in. If you cut it out wet it down before cutting it wear an appropriate air mask and gloves, etc. and cover it after you cut it with plastic sheeting and then take it out and dispose of it properly for your country or state.
If moved or cut it will become friable as in float in the air as particulate. That's why you wet it and cover it.

Dave5Cs
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RJ
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« Reply #4 on: January 01, 2013, 12:17:30 PM »

Todd -

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 Grin
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
chessie4905
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« Reply #5 on: January 01, 2013, 01:00:25 PM »

Don't get too excited by it. The brake lining and clutch discs have asbestos in them also. New material is changed.
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GMC h8h 649#028
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« Reply #6 on: January 01, 2013, 03:55:24 PM »

I hope I never have to cut my floor out. What happened to cause you to go in from the top? How do you replace the floor when done?
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L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
Blue Ridge Mountains, S.W. Virginia
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Have fun, be great, that way you have Great Fun!
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« Reply #7 on: January 01, 2013, 05:15:13 PM »

I hope I never have to cut my floor out. What happened to cause you to go in from the top? How do you replace the floor when done?

I had some bad spots + the PO had cut some big holes + PO did a bad patch job and I wanted to get rid of the seat tracks and residual old plywood smell, so I have removed all the plywood and replacing it with T&G 3/4 plywood, full sheet street to curb, with routed edges (5/8)

Think im am going to soak it down with soapy water , suit up , and remove the wrap just for peace of mind.

Just for refrence.. i did a laser square / level / twist measurement before and after plywood removal and there was no movement / twist of the shell.

Notice the 5" hole in the structural member the PO did to run the pluming ;P its getting repaired too..
« Last Edit: January 01, 2013, 05:26:43 PM by Darkspeed » Logged

Todd
4106-1070 6V92T + V730
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« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2013, 07:59:37 PM »

Obviously now is a great time to run anything from tip to tale. High pressure pipe for power steering comes to mind. I am told by an experienced GM mechanic that the stock copper pipe is not rated for the higher pressures of the Shepard steering conversion and that some have experienced pipe failure. He said it doesn't happen immediately, but the pressure cycles cause some type of work hardening that will over time weaken the pipe. Anyone else heard of this? For what it is worth mine is holding up so far. Also cables and power for a back-up camera, etc. are other things that might be easily run if that was in the plans. At least you have every option available with it opened up like that. Thanks for posting photos. Not often we get to see this type of rebuild.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2013, 08:13:03 PM by Barn Owl » Logged

L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
Blue Ridge Mountains, S.W. Virginia
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« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2013, 08:34:24 PM »

Good to know - Barn Owl

Had not thought of upgrade on the PS lines??

I am removing the cables for the shifter, clutch, hand brake, accelerator ( new air accelerator )
and also all of the unused plumbing for factor AC, etc...

I am running all new brake lines from the dry tank on with a spring brake valve for the rear and an isolated circuit to activate a third spring brake can on the "hand brake" drum.

I may also run new ac lines from the engine bay to a Vintage Air Universal kit that i am planning to install in the dash.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-61005-vuz-a/overview/
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Todd
4106-1070 6V92T + V730
RJ
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« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2013, 09:36:53 PM »

Todd -

A few thoughts come to mind. . .

The hole in the vertical bulkhead of the baggage bin shouldn't be a structural issue, you might find it handy for something later on.

I'd be more concerned about the hole next to the wheelwell, good source of splash water penetration.

The asbestos is for insulating the hot water line to the heater, think seriously about not removing it - and if you do, what are you going to replace it with so that the water going to the defroster is hot enough?  Maybe some of that engine exhaust pipe blanketing?

Speaking of defroster, the 4905s have dash a/c in addition to heat.  Evaporator, expansion valve, heater core, blowers, all together in one unit.  And the under dash area on that model is identical to your 4106.  So if you put out the word, somebody's scrapping a 4905 somewhere, salvage the dash HVAC and you've solved part of your dash a/c challenge.  You'll have to swap the blower motors for some 12V models, but almost any GM auto's HVAC blower motor should fit.  May have to change the expansion valve, too, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem.  You can drive the new A/C compressor off the original PTO on the engine, and utilize the original freon lines, too.  Just hang a condenser on the outside of the radiator and you'll be good.  Welch Industries outside Atlanta, GA, is really good at this type of custom A/C installations, btw.

I take from your comments about removing the clutch & shifter stuff that you've got or are installing an automatic?  Either way, use the tunnel to run the air line or cable to the shifter mechanism on the transmission.

Since you're running new brake air lines, I highly recommend that you install an air dryer (Bendix AD9 or equivalent), since your coach never came with one.  Make sure you get a model with a heater, so it doesn't freeze in cold weather.  Go to the Bendix website for great schematics of brake systems to determine it's location.  On MCIs, I believe it's mounted on the rear front axle bulkhead.  Perhaps a 4108/4905 owner could let you know where GM installed them on their model coach, since their undercarriage is similar.

Are you planning on running a diesel genset?  If so, PM me for a great solution for it's fuel tank.

One last thing - since you've got the floor out, check very carefully around the area where the upper radius rods coming off the differential attach to the chassis.  I found 1.5" and 2" cracks where they mounted on my coach, the cost of repair is what made the decision to donate the coach to a bus museum. 

Thanks for posting the pics, very informative!

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
Darkspeed
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« Reply #11 on: January 02, 2013, 07:32:39 AM »

THanks RJ..

That hole is a little worse in person, it is in a spot that will lead to a crack in the member.

Yes wheel wells are getting new skirts before plywood.

The asbestos will be replaced with standard fiberglass/foil pipe jacket and will be much more efficient.

Good to know about the 4905 heat / ac!

Yes it is getting a 6v92 / v730  - has a VH at the moment

I was just looking at dryers - good catch - i was wondering what the life span of the wet tank was, i know there is a lot of oil in the air but the wet tank still has to see a rust condition.

Yes I plan to run a diesel genset, i will pm you.

I have found a number of places where cracks have been welded, but i have not found any new cracks. There is about a 1.5 degree slope down from the axle pivot point, but i cant find any structural problem.

THanks..


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Todd
4106-1070 6V92T + V730
chessie4905
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« Reply #12 on: January 02, 2013, 06:15:04 PM »

  My 4905 has the air drier located in the space at the end of the fuel tank on driver's side. The main air line in my h8h649 there is made to remove about a 3 foot section to install one. Just disconnect the fittings and plumb in the drier. Unfortunately, I installed the larger tank in it and no room now for air drier in that spot.( larger tank runs side to side totally now)
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GMC h8h 649#028
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RJ
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« Reply #13 on: January 02, 2013, 11:21:20 PM »

Yes I plan to run a diesel genset, i will pm you.
Todd -

Was going to PM you with info on the genset fuel tank, but you don't have your profile set up to receive them!

Editing time!    Grin


BTW, are you aware that there are a LOT of busnuts relatively close to you?   Lakeland and Winter Haven for starters. . .
 
« Last Edit: January 02, 2013, 11:26:46 PM by RJ » Logged

RJ Long
PD4106-2784 No More
Fresno CA
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« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2013, 06:42:30 AM »

Highly recommend installing HD flexible plastic conduit front to rear, and put a pull wire in it.  You will need it for pulling through various unthought of wires.  Both of my conversions got 3" conduit, and both wound up full of wires.
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'47 GM PD3751-438
'65 Crown Atomic
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