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Author Topic: Driver A/C  (Read 2661 times)
Kwajdiver
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« on: January 17, 2013, 03:17:32 PM »

Long ago I removed the "over the road" A/C from the bus .

Now I'm interested in installing a driver A/C.  Has anyone done this?  What did you use? How did you go about it?

Thanks for the input.

Bill W.
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Auburndale, Florida
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Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
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« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2013, 06:11:17 PM »

How about a mini-spilt above your entrance doorway?
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Dr. Steve, San Juan del Río, Querétaro, Mexico, North America, Planet Earth, Milky Way.
1981 Dina Olímpico (Flxible Flxliner clone), 6V92TA Detroit Diesel
Rockwell model RM135A 9-speed manual tranny.
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2013, 06:32:23 PM »

Not bad,,,, can you give me more information, model type?

Thanks,

Bill W
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Auburndale, Florida
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« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2013, 07:43:40 PM »

You need to decide if you want something engine powered or electrically powered by your generator running going down the road.  A mini split will require electrical power.

You can add an automotive type compressor to your engine along with a condenser and evaporator for driver's A/C, but you will have spent a fair bit of money for something that only works when the main engine is running.  Dan Hard and Red Dot are two sources for the parts.  The hardest part of the install might be running the hoses front to back.
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« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2013, 09:14:38 PM »

I had no where to mount an air conditioning compressor on my engine (Vdrive). That's why I have a third roof top near the front aimed at me going down the road. Granted you have to run the generator while driving, but with a 12v dash fan, I'm a happy cool camper. Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2013, 11:44:19 PM »

Bill -

Does the coach still have the OEM defroster equipment under the dash, as well as the feed/return lines to the engine compartment?

If so, relatively easy to hook up a small automotive compressor off the engine, along with a condensor, and simply re-use the OEM HVAC unit under the dash.  That will give you a nice OTR dash air setup.

If not, then you've got more of a challenge.  Welch Industries outside Atlanta GA is really good at this type of thing.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
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« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2013, 05:48:41 AM »

Not bad,,,, can you give me more information, model type?

Thanks,

Bill W

Mr. Bill:

My bus build thread has all the details of our two a/c mini-splits. Ours also have heating strips installed. They peak at 980 watts maximum, so can easily be run off of the house battery bank through the inverter, when running down the road. See here:

http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=22081.0

I do believe it would be a lot cheaper for you, than an engine-powered unit, plus it will also work when you are parked. There are quite a few of us on these awesome boards that have used mini-splits of various brands.

I wish you success, my friend!
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Dr. Steve, San Juan del Río, Querétaro, Mexico, North America, Planet Earth, Milky Way.
1981 Dina Olímpico (Flxible Flxliner clone), 6V92TA Detroit Diesel
Rockwell model RM135A 9-speed manual tranny.
Jake brakes
100 miles North West of Mexico City, Mexico. 6,800 feet altitude.
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« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2013, 07:18:23 AM »

For a driver-area only system, we have been installing a self powered (2 cylinder diesel) heat/cool system like they use in sleepers on truck-tractors.

The unit we install most has a 6500 watt generator also, which powers the basic needs of the vehicle while traveling down the road. (not roof-top units)

This system can be used when driving solo, when the rest of the vehicle does not need to be cooled, saving fuel by not running the larger, main generator.

It uses about one gallon of fuel in about 3 - 4 hours, and can be left running when the vehicle is stopped. It is quiet, and efficient.

Easily fits in the corner of a bay, or can be adapted to fit under the entry steps with the addition of a 12 volt radiator fan to move the air while sitting.

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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2013, 02:52:52 PM »

Mex, thank you, going to look at your site.

PCC, is there a website I can look this over?

Thanks,

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2013, 04:37:55 PM »

Bill, I will get the details (am on the road) and PM you.
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Chas
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« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2013, 07:00:38 PM »

PCC - could you please send me the web site info. also? Thank You

Chas
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wg4t50
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« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2013, 07:28:02 PM »

All kinds of ways to work this out, for me, I just simply used the 2 roof A/C units, ran the diesel genset non stop 24/7, the fuel burn was simply .38 gal per hour year round average, with air or heat, house refrig or what ever, 10 gal a day at max. Know figuring 5 days on a 55 gal tank was very safe. I used seperate systems for everything, coach, genset and house, nothing interconnected, that wayif the main engine failed, I could stay comfy, if the genset died, I could run for motel/repair.
 For me not worth playing a second unit or even trying to use a belt driven compressor on engine.
Just do what makes you the happiest.
Dave M
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« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2013, 08:14:28 PM »

The unit we recommend is at the following web page:
http://www.rigmasterpower.com/downloads/RigMaster_MTS-T4-6_Generator-Model.pdf

It provides 20,000 BTU (almost 2 ton) of cooling and 13,500 BTU of heat.
The generator produces 40 AMP of power, completely separate from the heat/cool.

For more information, please talk with PCC@ServingProject.org.
Proceeds benefit Serving Project, Inc. - Serving those who have served.
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Thank God - He is always patient.
RJ
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« Reply #13 on: January 19, 2013, 01:24:19 AM »

Hey, whaddayaknow. . . RigMaster's HQ is in Buswarrior's neck of the woods - Etobicoke, ON!

A proper report should be forthcoming from the Frozen North!

Eh?

 Wink
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RJ Long
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« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2013, 02:45:17 AM »

Over the years, there have been many outfits that have built these units, I hope the RigMaster is here to stay.  Onan was an early mfgr, no longer making them. See quite a few on tractors with the Thermo King name plate these days.
AS long as the Perkins/Cat engine hold up, that should be a good unit.  My fear is the little diesel could be running at a very high RPM, meaning a much shorter life, be best if it runs at the 1800 rpm area, but would guess it is closer to 3,000 RPM or lil more.
FWIW
Dave M
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MCI7 20+ Yrs
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Gordie Allen
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« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2013, 06:41:02 AM »

I've purchased, but not yet installed two 110v mini splits.  One in the bedroom (back) and one over the driver.  My goal is to have the exterior of the bus look stock original (nothing on the roof).  I added a second 300 amp alternator to charge house batteries which should be enough to run the front if not both while on the road.  They draw 9 amps AC or 90 amps DC.  Planning on a 1000 ah house battery pack.
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Kwajdiver
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« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2013, 01:21:05 PM »

Gordie,

Would love to see a photo of the added alternator.

Thanks,

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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Kwajalein Atoll, RMI
Kwajdiver
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« Reply #17 on: January 23, 2013, 03:18:08 PM »

Thanks for all the inputs.

My bus is going over to John Silver at Central Florida Bus.  Plan to look at a couple options that have been suggest.
The first, if we can use part of the old over the road air.  I did remove the motor and compressor, but the lines and condessor in the front may still be in tack.

I like the mini splits.  However, they would require more power.

Thanks,

Bill
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Auburndale, Florida
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robertglines1
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« Reply #18 on: January 23, 2013, 07:33:48 PM »

Bill;look at drivers aux air on prevost like Ace. Use Ford type techumpsy (sp) ac compressor driven off cam shaft. Mount (facing engine)lower right. Compressor should be under $200 new. Evaporator would go in your defroster box and use those fans. You should check and see if  there was a original evap there someone disconnected . Good luck  should give you 25 to 30,000 btu    Bob      Example 75 ford pickup .   
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« Reply #19 on: January 23, 2013, 08:30:39 PM »

You should check and see if  there was a original evap there someone disconnected.

Bob -

Bill's MC-9 came from the factory with dashboard A/C.  Unless somebody removed it, it's integrated into the defroster (evaporator, expansion valve, etc.)  Had to have the main coach HVAC on for it to work, but that can be easily overcome with some wiring changes.

This would be the simplest way to have OTR A/C for the driver, by adding a small automotive compressor, a condenser, and utilizing the existing OEM HVAC plumbing.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 Wink
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RJ Long
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« Reply #20 on: January 23, 2013, 09:02:00 PM »

Yup, Rigmaster carries on...

For the busnut, I'm not sure that one of the truck type APU's is the best bang for the buck.

You have to add up all that you get for the dollars, and compare to a good diesel generator from someone like Wrico or Powertech, and adding generic HVAC to that.

The truck APU's may meet the needs for the driver's area for air conditioning capacity, but not for the whole coach.

A sleeper cab is a lot smaller inside than our bus conversions.

That being said, do your math, a Rigmaster has lots of generator for powering other AC units besides its own built in one.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
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« Reply #21 on: January 24, 2013, 08:49:08 AM »

When we install an APU with heat/cool, we drop a drape behind the driver, so it is just for the driver, preventing the need to run the entire coach system.

It can also be used in conjunction with a whole vehicle system, to keep the driver more comfortable. I was not suggesting it would cool the entire, or even a major portion of the, vehicle, but it does save a lot of money, when traveling alone, or with only one person sitting beside the driver.

Add to that, it also powers the fridge, computers, battery chargers, other basic 110/220 stuff, it is a serious consideration for the vehicles we work on.
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For some, patience is a virtue.
Dealing with me, it is required.
Thank God - He is always patient.
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