"This unit has 2 legs at 120V." That, and presence of the jumper, tells me that your generator is not putting out 240V. It takes more than removing a jumper to change a generator from 120V to 240V output. Have you checked the voltage between L1 and L2? If you have no reading between L1 and L2, your generator is not producing 240V. If your generator was putting out 240V, adding a jumper will cause a dead short. If you are lucky, you will trip a breaker before you do any damage. I had an Onan 7.5 KW Quiet Diesel generator, with inverter technology, that had 2 legs of 120V, but it would not put out 240V.
I need more information.
Good luck, Sam
Good catch Sam. I was wrong about the jumper wire. I could swear that I got this idea from the manufacturer but maybe not. I did thas about a year ago. I did put my meter on the leads and found 120v to neutral on both sides and 0 between them just like you said. I'm beginning to think that I can't get 240V from this unit which is a real disappointment. I need 240V to run the pump on my water well. I have a Power Tech AKA PTS genset in my rig made in 2000. Model CD7000, volts 120. Class F...... I have done a little Googleing and see the name plate on similar units is marked 120V/240V. Looks like I'm out of luck on the 240V part.
I also checked inside of the transfer switch to make sure that all of the wires were secure. The switch is a Magnetek Model ATS, 50A, 240VAC. I did start the generator up while I had it open and saw the switch energize to send voltage into the coach. I also saw the button which needs to be pushed in if it fails to work in the future.