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Author Topic: Skinner Valve Source Needed  (Read 916 times)
Lin
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« on: April 01, 2013, 02:26:40 PM »

I am looking for a 24v, NC, 3/8", Skinner/solenoid valve rated for hydraulic 300 psi to use for my Jake lockup project.  Does anyone have one or have a good source?  Most all of what I have found fails in one or more of the specs.  Thanks
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tekebird
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2013, 02:50:36 PM »

ebay
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Lin
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2013, 02:56:27 PM »

Thanks, I have been checking on Ebay in the hope of finding a deal.  The problem is that the listings a generally incomplete and either leave off the port size, the pressure rating, or more.  I have email several sellers trying to get better info. 
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chessie4905
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2013, 03:18:20 PM »

here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-air-solenoid-valves/=m4xsfl
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luvrbus
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2013, 03:35:23 PM »

www.utxchange.com you are trying to do a converter lock up like the fire trucks ? if so Allison calls that a flow valve
« Last Edit: April 01, 2013, 03:40:53 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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Lin
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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2013, 05:05:36 PM »

I am guessing that it is similar to what firetrucks do.  I just want the transmission to stay in lockup while the Jakes are on.  We have come down some winding mountain roads that keep us in second or even first gear.  It would be nice if the Jakes could help out, which they don't if the transmission drops out of lockup.
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Dave5Cs
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1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71 HT-740 Allison, Roseville, CA




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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2013, 05:27:45 PM »

Clifford;
Electromagnetic Brake Retarder? Read how it works, but where is it installed and whats the aprox. cost of this retarder. Will it work on my 5C and are they effective. I don't have Jakes.

Dave5Cs
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Lin
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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2013, 07:11:25 PM »

If you are referring to something like a Telma unit, they are mounted on the drive shaft.  I don't think the shaft on an MC5 would be long enough.  I haven't really checked it though and there may be other variations.
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Lin
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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2013, 04:43:18 PM »

Well the project is finally complete, and it only took around three months.  The first problem was finding the right valve, which is why I started the thread.  It was more difficult than expected since the valve had to be rated for 300 psi at 250 degrees.  I could not find one that equaled those specs on the cheap.  I'm sure that it could be done, but I ended up having one put together by Versa for close to $300. once shipping was added.  There was a valve that Allison recommended for this use.  It was made by Parker but it did not have an exhaust, which is really necessary.  Actually, when I contacted Parker directly about that valve, they said that it was not really rated high enough.  It is certainly surprising that Allison would have the recommendation wrong.

When I got the valve from Versa, I called them with a question about it, and found that their rep had ignored the heat requirements.  Hence, the valve would have to be upgraded to Viton seals and a higher temp coil.  This should have just been a little delay of sending it back to them, but someone there got the bright idea to offer to send me the parts and have me do it myself.  I told them that if it was simple, that would be okay.  Well, changing the coil was easy.  However, they sent me a seal kit with over 3 dozen seals in it.  Just taking off the end caps of the valve convinced me that the guy that suggested me changing the seals had no idea how much was involved.  I contacted them and told them I could not do it.  Their next solution was for me to send the valve and seal kit to their local distributor for them to do it.  I did that, got the valve back, installed it, and started up the bus. When I went back to look for any possible leaks, the valve was pumping oil out of the housing at such a rate that it must have dumped 2 gallons by the time I shut down the engine! 

The valve went back to the distributor who tried and failed to fix it, and then back to Versa, who took a couple of weeks to do it.  There is no clear info on what went wrong and whose fault it was (certainly not mine though), but they did change out parts.  Anyway, the valve was delivered here when I was away, so it did not get installed and tested until yesterday, and the good news is that there are no leaks and everything worked as hoped for on our test run.  The transmission now stays in lockup in low gears if the Jakes are on.  If it continues to do its job, it will have been worth the frustration.

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usbusin
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« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2013, 05:23:19 PM »

Lin, it looks like you did a nice installation.  Glad you persevered.  Having Jakes that work all the time is nice.
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Dave5Cs
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« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2013, 06:32:19 PM »

Lin does it go in and out of lockup automatically or do you have to flip a switch. Nice job by the way.

Dave5Cs
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Lin
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« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2013, 08:43:10 PM »

Dave, if the Jakes are on, it stays in lockup.  This is generally the case in 3rd gear and higher, but not in 1st and 2nd.  Of course, it does go through the buffer switch, so the Jakes go off when you give it pedal.  They also go off at low rpm, I did not observe where, but it is somewhere around idle.  While the standard lockup arrangement is generally fine for Interstates where the curves will not be dramatic enough to force you to go below third gear, since we have been doing some winding mountain roads, I found that the Jakes were cutting out when I really needed them.  In theory, this will solve that problem.

I must point out the scary side to this arrangement though.  Had the valve not failed the first time it was installed, I probably would have overlooked it.  Were a hose to burst, or the valve develop a huge leak, you could pump out all of your transmission fluid really fast.  Therefore, I think this is not an install it and forget it project.  It will at least need to be checked closely before any trip.  Also, it will be necessary to keep the transmission port plugs on hand so the system can be bypassed if need be.  There are only two of them, so it would be a quick field fix.
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