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Author Topic: Anyone use a RotoZip? I need some advice on one.  (Read 2085 times)
Scott Bennett
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« on: April 03, 2013, 12:06:50 PM »

I have 3/4" knotty pine interior walls and 1/8" outside aluminum sheet panel with about 1 3/4" pink foam insulation in between. Can I use a RotoZip to cut out a hole in the side of my bus? I need a fairly nice hole...I can draw lines and follow them. I need a 3" radius on the corners.
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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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John316
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« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2013, 12:20:56 PM »

We use one quite a bit. 3/4 pine would be a serious stretch for it, but maybe possible. If you are trying to cut through all three layers, I would say probably not going to happen (assuming we are talking about window installation...finally!). You would definately need a track to run it on, because you cannot freehand it on a straight line. Just not happening.

Through all of those layers, I would say very doubtful. One at a time. Possible.

FWIW

John
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Melbo
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« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2013, 12:25:07 PM »

Scott

Use an angle grinder or jig saw to get close to what you want then use a router to clean it up.

At least that is what I did through the inside panel -- aluminum skin and fiberglass skin.

Slow and steady and some good practice will help.

HTH

Melbo
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Hobie
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« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2013, 12:25:44 PM »

I would think it would wind up all your insulation around the bit.  

I'm thinking that this needs to be done with a sabre saw.  First drill pilot holes in the corners through the exterior and interior.  Pull off the insulation around the bit and hit all corners.  Then make a block to raise your saw blade up so it cuts only the pine.  Or, cut the outside metal first.  then razor blade the insulation out and make the cuts on the other side.   A little too much for a rotozip tool, me thinks.  
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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2013, 12:45:41 PM »

Excellent advice from you guys. Exactly why I post my questions here. Ok, so I'm very good with a cutting wheel because I built this bus (those of you who did your own conversion know exactly what I mean), so should I draw the lines and use the cutting wheel after drilling the holes in all four corners so that the outside hole lines up with the inside?  Oh, and yes...windows...finally :-) Thanks to Bontragers. They are an awesome place. Going back there when the weather warms up. Amazing place...

Hey, what about a sawzall? Bad idea?
« Last Edit: April 03, 2013, 12:48:33 PM by Scott Bennett » Logged

Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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Seangie
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« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2013, 01:03:12 PM »

Scott,

I'd buy a 3" hole saw with fine teeth for cutting metal for the corners.  You won't get the holes any more perfect than that.  Just make sure your pilot holes are measured exactly on center.  Even if you don't push the hole saw all the way through it will give you a perfect score on the aluminum.   I'd buy a long drill bit to do the pilot holes so it goes all the way through the pine on the inside.  Just make sure your drill is plumb when you drill the pilot holes.  Then just connect the dots Wink

-Sean

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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2013, 01:32:33 PM »

Scott,

I'd buy a 3" hole saw with fine teeth for cutting metal for the corners.  You won't get the holes any more perfect than that.  Just make sure your pilot holes are measured exactly on center.  Even if you don't push the hole saw all the way through it will give you a perfect score on the aluminum.   I'd buy a long drill bit to do the pilot holes so it goes all the way through the pine on the inside.  Just make sure your drill is plumb when you drill the pilot holes.  Then just connect the dots Wink

-Sean

[url=http://www.herdofturtles.org]www.herdofturtles.org[/url]
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That's exactly what I'm going to do...3" hole saw is equal to a 1.5" radius right? So technically if I have 3" radius corners, I'd need a 6 inch hole saw?!  Shocked
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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
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« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2013, 01:47:20 PM »

That's exactly what I'm going to do...3" hole saw is equal to a 1.5" radius right? So technically if I have 3" radius corners, I'd need a 6 inch hole saw?!  Shocked
Shocked A 6 IN Dia hole saw by hand will not be fun at all, or safe

I would look at a body saw they are small air powered with very fine teeth, body shops use them and that big of a radius would be easy to cut with one

you would have to do the wood and the outside seperate tho'(i think)
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Doug
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« Reply #8 on: April 03, 2013, 02:53:46 PM »

Scott, your putting in windows,,,,,,?Huh?   Huh Huh
GREAT....

Bill
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« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2013, 04:19:02 PM »

A real carpenter can use a jig saw with a fine tooth 6" blade like a surgeon with a scalpel . Just don't let it bounce.                        dave
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Seangie
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« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2013, 05:39:25 PM »

That's exactly what I'm going to do...3" hole saw is equal to a 1.5" radius right? So technically if I have 3" radius corners, I'd need a 6 inch hole saw?!  Shocked

Scott - I meant to say 6" holesaw.  That's about the biggest they make I think.  Make sure you have a solid scaffold to stand on and comfortably drill the hole without having to bend over or reach up.  Use a good powered drill (not battery) don't rush it, take your time, be safe and let the saw do the work.  If the 1/8" is aluminum a bi-metal saw will go through it.  The saw should last through the 4 windows cutting both inside and out with it.  And it will cost you about 60 bucks Smiley

For the straight cuts through the metal I would use a 68tooth steel cutting blade on a circular saw.  Set the depth to a 1/4" and connect your circular cuts.  That's my way.  Use gloves, goggles (not glasses-metal bounces everywhere) and don't let anyone stand under you looking up while you are cutting. 

I would also keep a jigsaw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade and the rotozip around to trim where you need to.  Cut the sheet out in pieces so you are not trying to hold up a 52" x 28" piece of metal with one hand while cutting with the other and start from the top and work your way down. And leave a good inch around the edge to cut out for the final trim.  That will give you time to work with the circular saw or jigsaw or body saw...whichever you choose and get used to how it feels and cuts as you move along before you cut out that last bit around the edge.

Praying for you!  Be safe and let us know how you make out.  You know we love pictures. 

 -Sean

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« Reply #11 on: April 03, 2013, 06:32:29 PM »

How about that putty they use in the movies. You just put it around the hole area and WA-La it right through and instant hole?
Ok maybe not.LOL

Dave5Cs Grin
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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #12 on: April 03, 2013, 07:06:45 PM »

I've considered blowing up a hole through it. C4 seems a little extreme though. One down, 4 to go:



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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
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« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2013, 07:15:45 PM »

Cool Scott


Looking good -- keep up the good work

Melbo
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« Reply #14 on: April 03, 2013, 08:25:03 PM »

Looks like a good job.  Is the picture sideways or is the window installed with long side horozontal?
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