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Author Topic: URGENT Technomadia - Overheated and stranded in SE Montana LOCKED DOWN 4 REVIEW!  (Read 24121 times)
B_K
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« Reply #45 on: June 16, 2013, 02:21:39 PM »

The 4106 has a 4.5 gallon overflow tank mounted above the highest point of the engine, keeping this tank full assures that the top head will always have enough coolant and the water "tower" (the location of the water temp sender) is below the water line.. The tank is fabricated of brass and SOFT SOLDERED at the seams,, the seems will often split and the system will not hold pressure to raise the boiling temp. At each check of the water level a test of remaining pressure should be looked for from the last run of the engine. A system in good condition will hold this pressure for a long time.>>>Dan

Sounds to me that maybe it should also have a low water sensor in it and have it where it will activate the shut down solenoid as well as the temp sensors.
Grin  BK  Grin
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Boomer
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« Reply #46 on: June 16, 2013, 07:44:42 PM »

After reading over your list of things that happened, there is something that no one has mentioned that could, I say could, cause them.  I say that because it happened to one of our 8-71's years ago.  A broken camshaft on the water pump side.  Will make instant heating, rough running, no power, puking air box drain. The engine will run, but very rough.  Just a five minute job to diagnose, pull the water pump plate and turn the engine over.  Run it by your mechanic and see what he says.  You are looking at some dough but I know you are prepared for that.  Good luck.

Mark
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Lee Bradley
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« Reply #47 on: June 17, 2013, 12:10:29 AM »

Everyone has a theory. Mine is that you had a thermostat stick closed on the head that doesn't have the temp sender. That side of the engine got hot and holed or melted one or more pistons and the water on that side turned to steam and pushed the water out of the cooling system. 
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Majikal-Joe
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« Reply #48 on: June 17, 2013, 06:50:22 AM »

Well I just hope Cheri and Chris can get it taken care of quickly and maybe do some of the break down work them-self nothing like working on your own stuff to know it in and out....Good luck guys.
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Utahclaimjumper
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« Reply #49 on: June 17, 2013, 09:31:48 AM »

 Lee,, you obviously don,t have experience with the 06 cross wise engine. The T stats on these engines are together , mounted in the water "tower" and not on each head, this tower is above the uppermost head (front) and an overflow tank above that, this arrangement provides for any air to be expelled above the heads. It works well unless the coolant gets low or a leak occurs in the system.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
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technomadia
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« Reply #50 on: June 17, 2013, 10:29:27 AM »

It is a tough call Bob but like you I think he lost the whole top bank the GM does not like no water on top I just hope he is good on the bottom end excess heat will break the webs on the main journals then it spins a bearing plus he may have the old style 71 and they are not worth rebuilding IMO I just hope he has the later style 71 series .


It seems like it is the bottom bank that is dead, actually.

But...  What do you mean "old style 71", how can we tell them apart?  And how should we decide whether to rebuild this engine or try and find a new one?

Advice appreciated.

I am thinking worse case as always then something simple is a blessing I know a guy in Idaho that had 2 rebuilt 8v71 with rebuilt 730's from the City of Phoenix I just hope he has 1 left in case they need it  

I should have bought the 2 he was only asking 2500 ea with the transmission attached,it breaks one heart to see peoples dream go up in smoke and repairs cost more than the price of the bus it's a catch 22 game.


Any contact info you can give us for anyone with an engine for sale would be appreciated.

What should we be looking for to make sure that we buy a good engine, if we go that route?  Is a 6V92 an option?  Does the engine have to be a takeout from a GM?

Thanks Clifford!

   - Chris // www.technomadia.com
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Cherie and Chris / www.technomadia.com
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« Reply #51 on: June 17, 2013, 10:57:01 AM »

 Your coach is a 1961, so being IF it still has the original engine it would be "early version" and not all that desirable.
  Red Ryder and I just switched out an early 62 engine for a 75 version,, big difference. The easiest(cheapest) switch would be another 8V71, a 6V92 if available at the right price would be an excellent swap but more labor, and you would be adding a turbocharger which would be a major step up in power especially in the mountains.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
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technomadia
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« Reply #52 on: June 17, 2013, 11:01:54 AM »

Your coach is a 1961, so being IF it still has the original engine it would be "early version" and not all that desirable.

We assume it is the original engine, but is there a way we can tell if it has been swapped at some point in the past?

A turbocharger in the mountains sure would be nice.  Does the 6V92 introduce more cooling issues?

Thanks!

  - Chris
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Cherie and Chris / www.technomadia.com
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eagle19952
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« Reply #53 on: June 17, 2013, 11:13:40 AM »

Ponderings to ponder....

once they sort out the serial number all that regarding original block vs. up-dated block, will become apparent...which must be done anyways...
and you will be way ahead to not do it as an in-frame.. imho.
and if the money pile allows an upgrade swap, it's coming out anyways.

We assume it is the original engine, but is there a way we can tell if it has been swapped at some point in the past?

A turbocharger in the mountains sure would be nice.  Does the 6V92 introduce more cooling issues?

Thanks!

  - Chris
« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 11:28:08 AM by eagle19952 » Logged

Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 NA, DDAllison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.
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« Reply #54 on: June 17, 2013, 11:22:36 AM »


Look for Don Fairchild and get a waste gated turboed 8/71 set up right.  If you plan on keeping the coach it will be well worth if.  And I don't think you could get a better engine any where .

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« Reply #55 on: June 17, 2013, 06:11:19 PM »

Talking with you today I would get a second opinion there is no way the shop can say you need another engine or a in-frame by shooting it with a infra/red and not looking inside drain box covers or pulling the heads

 If the number you gave me today and they were correct it was only a 100 degrees different between the top head and the bottom head a 8v71 if the rack is out of adjustment or a bad injector will be show more than that most of the time have the them pull the heads or run a compression check none of this makes any sense to me what they are saying basing it on infra red gun reading solely it is just not going to happen

 It's your money and from the sound of it I would tighten my belt so they could not pull your pants downs,check temp yourself it should read around 850 degrees @2100 rpm
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eagle19952
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« Reply #56 on: June 17, 2013, 06:18:53 PM »

there is no test procedure in a DD manual that uses a temp gun to determine engine condition....
Listen to Clifford.
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Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 NA, DDAllison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.
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technomadia
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« Reply #57 on: June 17, 2013, 06:36:47 PM »

Talking with you today I would get a second opinion there is no way the shop can say you need another engine or a in-frame by shooting it with a infra/red and not looking inside drain box covers or pulling the heads

 If the number you gave me today and they were correct it was only a 100 degrees different between the top head and the bottom head a 8v71 if the rack is out of adjustment or a bad injector will be show more than that most of the time have the them pull the heads or run a compression check none of this makes any sense to me what they are saying basing it on infra red gun reading solely it is just not going to happen

The IR gun temperature difference wasn't the "smoking gun" (that was used more to isolate which side was damaged) - when they found oil flowing into the exhaust as well as free flowing out the blower drain that is when they told us we for sure needed a rebuild.

I can insist tomorrow that they take diagnostics to the next level if you think there is another potential theory for what is broken and how it might be fixed.

Any ideas? Any recommendations for other 2-stroke / bus folks in the area who can come give us an in person opinion?

Thanks!

   - Chris
« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 06:40:50 PM by technomadia » Logged

Cherie and Chris / www.technomadia.com
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« Reply #58 on: June 17, 2013, 06:46:07 PM »

If you decide to go with a reman engine I highly recommend Diesel Exchange.  They have a great reputation.  www.dieselexchange.com  Wouldn't hurt to get a quote.

There is a big difference between "rebuild" and remanufactured.  JMO
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luvrbus
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« Reply #59 on: June 17, 2013, 06:52:04 PM »

That could 1 bad piston and liner set like the seals came loose or broken oil rings take it to next level, they have not done anything for you as far as locating the problem they are just after dollars IMO,

I told Chris that today Boomer when he told me where he was checking on a rebuilt engine but wasn't as kind with the words like you lol
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