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Author Topic: another gen problem  (Read 1123 times)
chart1
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« on: June 30, 2013, 11:43:11 PM »

Anyone know of anyplace in midwest (Ohio, Indiana,Illinois) that can service Yanmar rv genset. I have tried calling Yanmar all they send me to is tractor places that dont want to have anything to do with it. Problem I am having is I was able to start it and it would run 6-8 hours no problem then die( Run Out of fuel). Try to restart, it would crank but not start, hold the prime switch and it will start. Now it will not start at all unless you hold prime switch. screw on fuel filter is new. Is there maybe a a 2 nd fuel filter at the injection pump? If anyone has any info on Yanmar please help!!
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1976 MCI 8
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« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2013, 03:34:48 AM »

Email sent regarding bleeding a Yanmar. Might not be the answer, but certainly won't hurt to try.
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1981 MCI MC9
Detroit 8V-71N
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wg4t50
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« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2013, 03:45:58 AM »

Sad, Also sounds like Honda, they are quick to sell a generator, but not a clue for repairing it, we get many calls for repair for them, ya just gotta laugh as Honda seems only to sell you a new unit.
Dave M
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MCI7 20+ Yrs
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WG4T CW for over 50 wpm for ever.
Central Virginia
dickegler
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« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2013, 04:14:22 AM »

Hi,
 No yanmar experience, but sure sounds like a fuel restriction.  If it's a separate fuel tank, pull the pickup tube/hose and
remove strainer on the end.  I have no idea why they put those in there. 

Try scabbing a temporary fuel line and tank directly to the prime pump.  If it runs ok you have narrowed the problem to the tank/line portion of the system.

Check vent on fuel tank.

Hope you get it going again.

Dick
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dick egler  atlanta, in  92 prevost/beaver conversion
chart1
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« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2013, 04:22:52 PM »

Ok it is not a fuel problem it is a throttle control problem. when I push the start button the solinoid pulls the throttle back to start but upon releasing the start button the solinoid releases the throttle. If i hold the throttle by hand it runs perfect and smooth. Need to figure out what controls the solinoid after the start button is released.
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1976 MCI 8
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8" roof raise
bobofthenorth
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« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2013, 04:45:39 PM »

FWIW I got fed up with the control circuitry on my Jurassic model Onan and rejigged it entirely.  If it turns into an ordeal figuring out why your Yanmar run solenoid isn't staying in you may want to consider the same.  I figure that a diesel engine is about the simplest piece of machinery known and it shouldn't take complex electronics to keep a 30 year old mechanical diesel running safely.  So I did the following:

First I ripped out all the Onan $#!%.  Then I installed one "ford" cube relay to hold the run solenoid in.  That relay is NO.  The coil takes its ground through a 10 cent temperature switch that is NC and opens around 250 degrees.  I mounted that on top of the head so if the engine gets hot the run solenoid drops out.  Note that my engine is air cooled.  For a water jacket you would want a lower setpoint on this switch.  The hot side of the coil comes through a NO oil pressure switch that closes on relatively low pressure (can't remember if its 8 or 12 psi but it doesn't much matter).

Now when I engage the starter the engine turns over until oil pressure comes up to whatever that oil pressure switch setpoint is.  At that point the circuit closes to send power to the relay.  As long as the engine isn't overhot the relay coil sees ground through the temp switch and it pulls the run solenoid in.  The engine starts.  When you drop the run power to the NO oil pressure switch it all reverses and the engine stops.  Dead simple.  Fool proof.  Hell its even idiot proof.  Note that if the engine ever loses oil pressure for any reason it will also stop because the NO oil pressure switch will break the circuit to the run relay.
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R.J.(Bob) Evans
1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
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chart1
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« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2013, 05:04:09 PM »

anyway to put that into non electrician english..Confused Huh Huh Huh
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1976 MCI 8
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bobofthenorth
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« Reply #7 on: July 03, 2013, 06:42:46 PM »

OK - drawing is attached.  Its not pretty.  I'm an agrologist, not a draftsman.
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R.J.(Bob) Evans
1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
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hargreaves
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« Reply #8 on: July 03, 2013, 06:56:56 PM »

I would say that you have a hold in relay problem  There should be some small black relays with 5 terminals on the control board  .replace them 1 by 1 until it runs.  Cheers Gerry
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now as of Feb 2012 series 50 B400  . Sunshine Coast British Columbia
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« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2013, 07:03:50 PM »

Dont  Grin, but sounds like a fuel issue, have seen dumb things like a gas cap that
Did not breathe, as tank went down, a vacuum built up and the gas stopped flowing.
Yes I know it is too stupid, but give it a try, then laugh.
DaveM
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MCI7 20+ Yrs
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niles500
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« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2013, 07:41:55 PM »

There probably is a low coolant shut down - don't laugh, you should have a small in line surge tank and even though the overflow tank is full the surge tank may be low due to a bad cap etc. - FWIW
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eagle19952
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« Reply #11 on: July 03, 2013, 08:31:52 PM »

many times a low oil pressure sending unit Or A LOW OIL LEVEL SENDER HAS FINAL  control over whether or not the motor will remain running...
Same can hold true for low water or high temp.
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Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 NA, DDAllison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.
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« Reply #12 on: July 04, 2013, 05:04:39 AM »

Try posting your problem on the WOG (Wanderlodge Forum)

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/

Many Wanderlodges have the Yanmar powered Kohler gens.

So far, I have been lucky.  Others there have had problems similiar to yours.
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Jim Keefauver/1985 Wanderlodge PT36/6V92TA/MT654CR/East Tn.
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