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Author Topic: tires, batteries and now sewer lines  (Read 1906 times)
lvmci
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« on: July 13, 2013, 09:30:11 PM »

Hi All, driving from san bernadino to van nuys ca. to get nearer to work, on the I-210 fwy, an 18 wheeler which just pulled in front of me, blew at least two of the right back tires, at 70mph I could hear it in the bus with radio and air going, I saw the whole occurance shrapnel, pieces flying, and an entire carcass of one tire, in one piece, flying at me, fortunately went under bus, felt it hit the tires, and saw the jeep jump twice in the rear camera. Of course all of this in just seconds. I pulled over as soon as safe, and saw a big ruccuss behind me. jeep looked ok and didnt hear or see anything on the bus. When I arrived at the RV park, no brakes on the jeep, $1200 later jeep is repaired, I began to look closer at the MCI, saw some dripping underneath, upon very close inspection I discovered the black water sleeve and valve unit had been snapped off and was holding by a thin piece of glue. When I went to inspect it closer, it came right off, and the hole is rough on the plastic, holding tank. Has anyone repaired the drain hole, are they fixable? the female receptical seemed to have been glued on to the tank, and the 3" black hard sewer line to the valve that screwed into it are all glued together, I'll take a pic tommorrow, I put an Oakey temporary plug in the hole, thanks, lvmci...
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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2013, 05:06:02 AM »

Sorry to hear about this. Expensive accident. Wish the trucking company could pay for it. Anyway, are you absolutely sure the female fitting is glued into the tank? It might be spun weld but usually a threaded fitting is spun weld into the tank and you can unthread your pipe from that. Unless you're saying the fitting is broken which is annoying cause that will be harder to fix. Any pics?


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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lvmci
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« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2013, 06:26:59 AM »

Here's a pick of the outlet, 3 3/4" hole, 4 1/2" imprint of the threaded female piece that broke off, tom, lvmci...
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Mci 102C3 8V92, Allison 4 speed 740
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lvmci
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« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2013, 06:31:03 AM »

here's the inlet, a duplicate of the outlet from the top of the tank, a wider view and a pick of the oakley stopper, from hd, to plug the hotel, lvmci...
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lvmci
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« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2013, 07:07:18 AM »

The bus's original conversion was done in 1986 by Designer Coach of Salmon Arm BC Canada, out of business now, a remarkable job, to last 27 years, lvmci...
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« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2013, 07:10:19 AM »

Tom, I rotated the picture for ya  Wink
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chessie4905
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« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2013, 07:59:34 AM »

  Sorry about your luck, that sucks..I hope the tank was mostly empty at the time, as, even though it wasn't your fault and if the tank was full, Calif. would have declared the spill as a major environmental disaster with mega fines. How about a threaded flanged outlet, inserted from top of tank and installing nut and gasket to seal and go from there? (after cleaning up and smoothing surface of bottom side of tank so gasket will seal properly). If outlet is too close to corner, is it practical to shift tank out a little for clearance?
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« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2013, 08:09:11 AM »

Buy the plastic welder from H/F for 50 bucks with the correct rod material for the type plastic and weld the sucker it's a fairly good little welder for the money the 14 dollar one is junk
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lvmci
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« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2013, 08:13:40 AM »

Hi Chessie, good suggestion, I wil pursue that idea, here's my idea to fully empty the black tank before leaving the park, the lip of the flexible coupler may be enough to seal the drain hole to wash out the tank,  lvmci...
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« Reply #9 on: July 14, 2013, 08:21:13 AM »

Hi Cliff, plastic welder, good idea, I've always welded plastic with a a butter knife heated on the stove, I guess that won't work here, tom, lvmci...
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« Reply #10 on: July 14, 2013, 09:55:09 AM »

Hi All, a successful black tank drain, with temporary 3" coupler, very little seepage while draining, thanks to Tom C also for the recommendation as to a shop, lvmci...
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« Reply #11 on: July 14, 2013, 07:50:39 PM »

I can't see your Pics...but cliff was
Right on as always. I welded my
Tank with the harbor freight welder.
Works like a charm


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
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« Reply #12 on: July 14, 2013, 07:55:56 PM »

After seeing the pictures-it looks like you could have a new fitting spin welded back into place. I would suggest you call at Ronco-plastics in Irvine and send those pictures to see if they are willing to spin weld a new fitting in. The web site is www.ronco-plastics.com  Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2013, 08:04:10 PM »

Spin,fusion and rod welding are about the same with plastics it's all done with heat spin welding is heat caused by the spinning of the fitting then if fuses together I doubt a spin weld would hold on a tank that old the chemical make up has changed over the years
« Last Edit: July 14, 2013, 08:08:07 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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lvmci
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« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2013, 07:08:39 AM »

Hi All, thanks to Cliff and Tom and all others who have advised, Friday done with this job and will update as to what I'm able to accomplish, tom, lvmci...
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« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2013, 07:28:41 AM »

Spin,fusion and rod welding are about the same with plastics it's all done with heat spin welding is heat caused by the spinning of the fitting then if fuses together I doubt a spin weld would hold on a tank that old the chemical make up has changed over the years

So true. When I had my fittings spun on, they were very picky about the type of material and matching it up. Only certain ones hold up and if they don't have the right type of plastic, they won't do it. How old is that tank anyway?


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
˙ǝɯoɔlǝʍ suoıʇɐuop ˙snq ʍǝu ɐ pǝǝu ʎlqɐqoɹd ll,ǝʍ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
chessie4905
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« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2013, 09:30:17 AM »

I'd be leery to weld at the bottom of an old or not holding tank...If that sucker leaks or fails...wrong type of mess to have to deal with; just like cleaning up the mess from those axle seals that eventually leak. Wink Especially so with someone without plastic welding experience.
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« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2013, 12:28:26 PM »

I would be a bit leery of that myself.  If it were mine and I didn't want to spend the money to replace it (which I wouldn't), I would consider removing the tank, plugging all the existing holes, then turn it around 180 and spin new fittings in.
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luvrbus
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« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2013, 03:42:34 PM »

Treat the tank like you were welding steel a little v grove remove the crust on the tank weld it, with the development of these new plastic welder your major bus converters and Rv manufactures are welding now or using a rubber gourmet  

I have saw rv's 20+ years old with only the rubber gourmet for connections to the tank and no problems with the connections leaking fwiw

He can spin weld his own fitting if he choose to go that route all it takes is a router and some type home made adapter for the fitting to spin it with it's not a brain surgery   
« Last Edit: July 15, 2013, 03:53:19 PM by luvrbus » Logged

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lvmci
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« Reply #19 on: July 15, 2013, 08:55:58 PM »

Hi All, if the polyurethane or whatever the tank is made out of, drys or age changes it in some way that would make it unsuitable to be repaired by welding, I think is what the issue is. So I have made an appointment with Astec tank manufacturing co, in ontario, ca, to take a look at the tank to tell me just that info. I'm hoping it is repairable if not by spin or plastic welding, then by traditional screw and gluing abs sewer pipe, I will let you know as friday is the appointment, thanks so much for the advice and comments, tom, lvmci...
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« Reply #20 on: July 19, 2013, 04:40:45 PM »

Hi All, just got to a park for the nite, traffic on I15 to LV from LA on Friday nite is nuts, will wait till the cool of the morning for the drive home, but good news, went to Astec tank company on the recomendation of someone the vacationing Tom C recomended, after an inspection by Bill and Romeo and within minutes, they spin welded the fitting on to the broken tank, and I was on my way, yes, they said, an aging tank can get brittle or unsuitable for repairs, but apparently not my tank from 1986, for $50 the repair was done with some good advice, thanks to all of you for your advice, and information, tom...
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« Reply #21 on: July 20, 2013, 03:26:02 AM »

  I'm impressed that they were willing to fool with it. Most mfgs couldn't be bothered.
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