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Author Topic: Rubber roof, or metal and paint?  (Read 1875 times)
Simy
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« on: August 04, 2013, 07:59:56 PM »

Ok so we are still mid progress in finishing the roof repairs as you can see here. http://imgur.com/a/Fn2UZ#0

I'm curious as to why people do rubber roofs instead of paint. I gather it depends greatly on how it will be used so here is what I would like and what I plan to do with it. I wan't it to be easy to maintain, and I don't want to worry about branches scraping my roof. I don't care if I need to to touch-ups but I don't want to do massive repairs if I park out in the sticks and knock around a few branches. I mostly plan to be away from trees though because I want to cover the roof in solar panels providing shade to the roof with an air gap, and of course power.

It was originally painted but I wouldn't paint it with automotive grade paint, I would paint it most likely with some type of paint I can use a roller brush with. I don't care how it looks provided it protects the metal. If I get something scraping the roof I can always do a quick sand and touch up. On the other hand rubber roofs seem to be all the rage. We were going to go with a one piece rubber roof repair, however this seems to be even more complicated as it would require a very smooth roof, or wooden panels over the metal to provide a smooth roof. While there is nothing complicated about its install at first I don't plan on going solar for a 12-18 months, the sub structure hasn't been built yet, and it won't be until I know exactly how I plan to go about doing it. There is also the roll on EPDM roofs but I don't like the idea of chalking and unless they provide a substantial benefit over a one piece and paint, I see no reason to entertain it.

I know a one piece aluminum roof is an option but we had decided to just clean up the steel we had as we were not sure on how to install the aluminum without going way over our time or budget... Not that we haven't done that already but that is besides the point.

I look forward to any insights and ideas on which option is right for me.

Tom
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luvrbus
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« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2013, 09:17:44 PM »

Nothing wrong with the EPDM system except the price it will last forever has a lifetime warranty here is where I bought the kit to do a rv roof www.bestmaterials.com it was around 1000 bucks for everything including the AC and vents hardware with a piece of EPDM 9 ft x 41 ft they will sell you any length 

good luck
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Simy
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« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2013, 09:51:26 PM »

Would it work best for me is the question. The more I look at just using paint the more I think it may be a better solution. Regardless I'll be using paint for now, but I'm just curious if I should be getting an EPDM roof at a later time. I'm not seeing any significant benefits other then the fact that it will last 20+ years. Seems to be maintenance free, but what if I get snagged on a tree or something, that is what worries me the most.
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belfert
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« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2013, 12:45:16 AM »

One thing a lot of RV owners seem to hate is EPDM rubber roofs for various reasons.  Your roof is so rusty that maybe a rubber roof would be a good idea in your case.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
luvrbus
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« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2013, 05:16:18 AM »

EPDM roofs have changed a lot it the last 20 years they will still tear but not as easy then they are easy to patch like every other thing the RV manufactures did it was a terrible job with them cutting corners so the roof took the blame 

Me I would prefer the bedliner material over any option  
« Last Edit: August 05, 2013, 05:33:51 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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chessie4905
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« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2013, 06:02:27 AM »

   Take a look at Herculiner, also sold by Pep Boys. I used it to coat the inside of my house battery box. Appears quite durable. Goes on with roller; supplied. In your cost situation, it may be what you are looking for. I believe it also comes in white.
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GMC h8h 649#028
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« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2013, 06:58:34 AM »

After many years of RVing, why would one want a "Rubber" roof? Considering its long term hassles, never ending need for attention .
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belfert
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« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2013, 09:00:53 AM »

Herculiner is no available in white.  The manufacturer discontinued white a year ago and only sells grey and black now.  I've been considering Monstaliner for my roof if I do it myself, but I am also strongly considering paying the extra to have someone do the whole thing for me.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
LowTide
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« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2013, 03:39:52 PM »

Hey Belfert,

It looks like they do carry white.
http://www.herculiner.com/questions.html#c

I am also going to be resealing the roof of ours in a month or so and am in the process of finding something that is durable and will last.


Mike
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Mike and Lori
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belfert
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« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2013, 04:56:03 PM »

It looks like they do carry white.
http://www.herculiner.com/questions.html#c

I am also going to be resealing the roof of ours in a month or so and am in the process of finding something that is durable and will last.


The website is wrong.  I couldn't find anybody selling the white so I called them directly last week and they said they discontinued white a year ago.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2013, 05:02:24 PM »

The website is wrong.  I couldn't find anybody selling the white so I called them directly last week and they said they discontinued white a year ago.

Belfert,

Thanks for the information. It looked like a promising product, but in black that would be "not so good"

Mike
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Mike and Lori
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Simy
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« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2013, 06:29:42 PM »

As an update, for the time being I think we are going to stick with just paint for now, that way I don't have to worry about the roof being even, or having rough edges. I'm more or less just going to make sure it doesn't have any more pinholes in my welds ( a few more spots to fix up) and let the primer and paint protect the metal for the foreseeable future.

Thanks for all the tips and information though. Quite a few products have come up and maybe a site wide poll on how long everybody has had what product on in one thread would be a good place for those trying to decide on what to do.
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treeplanter
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« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2013, 07:40:02 PM »

Check out a product called Bus-kote, it's also designed to reflect heat.
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Simy
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« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2013, 07:58:04 PM »

I read up on that it seems likely to be my choice if anybody here has any real world experiences with it, I would love to hear about it, but I'm still not sure its best for our situation. As far as paint/roll on products though it is currently at the top of my list if we decided to go down that road.
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Oonrahnjay
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« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2013, 09:06:14 PM »

Check out a product called Bus-kote, it's also designed to reflect heat.

       I put it on ("full package" - primer, Bus-Kote, clear sealer) about 6 weeks ago.  I haven't done A/C install yet so I can't verify the difference there but just sitting in the sun while I'm working on it, it's notably cooler.  Of course, no way to know how long it will last.  And, as usual, it took about 10 hours to prepare (got sold some really cruddy silicone caulk a few years ago) and 5 hours to paint.  I did one coat (looked good) of the primer, two coats of the Bus-Kote, and one coat of the clear and I used only 1/2 to 2/3 of the amount that they estimated I'd need.  I hope I didn't get it too thin but it looks good now.
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« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2013, 09:43:22 PM »

We used Kool Seal about 5 years ago, and it has stood up to the desert sun since then with no problems.  I was thinking of maybe giving it another coat as a preventative measure come winter when it will be more comfortable to work here.  Some have complained that the product chalks a bit leaving ghost lines down the side of the bus.  This is sometimes true, but they rinse right off.  Also, there are probably some other similar elastomeric roof coatings that may not do that.  I do not know if they provide as much of a radiant barrier as Bus-kote, but it definitely does help.  The application is simple with a brush or roller, and if you ever want to recoat as I might, you just wash down the roof with something like TSP and your ready to go.  Kool Seal gives a 10 year warranty, but I really do not know what they means.
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chessie4905
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« Reply #16 on: September 05, 2013, 11:44:24 AM »

Rustoleum carries a spray can of clear for spraying a rubberized coating. I've seen it at Lowes. Also body shops used to use a product called chip gard. Don't know if it is still avail.
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GMC h8h 649#028
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« Reply #17 on: September 05, 2013, 03:33:13 PM »

Rubber roofs is one of the reasons I never want a S&S RV.

If you look at any RV accessories catalog and see all the different things sold to repair/renovate rubber roofs you will see what I mean!
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Simy
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« Reply #18 on: September 05, 2013, 03:36:01 PM »

Yeah we decided to not go on with it for that very reason, sounds like too much hassle and we have a steel roof that has now been patched and is less maintenance then most rubber roofs and should last just as long with half the effort; if not longer.

Now a standard RV's wooden roof, that is a different story...
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pabusnut
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« Reply #19 on: September 05, 2013, 06:15:55 PM »

I just got around to painting(well about 1/3) of the roof on my GM 4905.  The existing paint looked to be original and was nearly all chalky and gone!  There were even lichens growing in the paint prior to sanding with the 150 grit sandpaper!  The original MK&O stickers on both ends of the top roof were all gone except the adhesive, which was a booger to get off.  I sanded it down and used a rotary wire brush around all the rivets(where all the paint cracking was) which took like forever! 

I used the enamel primer and glossy white from Tractor supply.  I used a 4" roller with 3/8" nap to roll on both paints.  It doesn't leave a completely smooth appearance like spray paint, but I think each coat is significantly thicker.  Since nobody sees the top, I really don't care what it looks like, I consider the roof paint to be a "protective coating."

I think I am going to roll the paint on the sides too, but I will probably use a foam roller in hopes of a smoother appearance.  I am hoping to get a 50/50 paint job out of it!  My color of choice is white to reflect heat, thus cutting down on my cooling load.  The glossy white TS paint looks good, and I am cheap, so $30/gallon is right in my price range!

Steve Toomey
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Steve Toomey
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Simy
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« Reply #20 on: September 05, 2013, 06:49:45 PM »

Its funny you mention that, we got rustolem paint from home depot but basically the same deal as you. Its quite bright/reflective and I've noticed a significant reduction in heat with the new paint. (I have no insulation on the ceiling currently) Granted my roof looks terrible... I call it frankenroof but its not leaking on any of the welds (It does leak on the temporarily positioned rooftop AC's but I didn't feel like going through the hassle just to take them back out in a few months. They are just to be able to work inside if we need to.)

Here are some links to the work in progress.
The work: http://www.maxrving.com/2013/07/nearly-done-with-patched-roof.html
And a quick fix: http://www.maxrving.com/2013/08/roof-ac-update.html

In between there is a post that shows the freshly painted roof without the roof AC's.
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