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Author Topic: 4104 Fuel Line  (Read 1830 times)
4104SoFl
Orv
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« on: August 06, 2013, 05:08:29 AM »

Looking for info on replacing fuel lines.
Have a leak in the wheel well area.
Ideas / Suggestion

Thanks
Orv
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Orville Meyer
Loxahatchee, FL
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bevans6
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« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2013, 05:52:26 AM »

Hard line or flex line leaking?

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
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4104SoFl
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« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2013, 05:55:54 AM »

It appears to me to be hard line from tank to first fuel filter
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Orville Meyer
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« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2013, 06:44:14 AM »

You need to identify the exact location and cause of the leak.  If it is a crack in the line, the right way to fix it (and probably hard if not impossible) is to replace the entire line with new.  The other way is to splice it with a section of hard or flex line.  Maybe you could go half-way with a section of new line from the crack back to the engine.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
4104SoFl
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« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2013, 09:01:11 AM »

I'm thinking along the same lines.
Can I use copper tubing?
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Orville Meyer
Loxahatchee, FL
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belfert
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« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2013, 11:43:33 AM »

If it was me, I would probably use flexible fuel lines.  My bus has all flexible lines, but it is a 1995 model.  Fuel line technology has come a long ways since your bus was built.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2013, 12:12:21 PM »

The problem with copper is that the commonly available "hardware store" alloys are prone to work hardening and cracking from vibration.  I don't know if the factory lines would have been copper or steel, but I would use steel if I had to put in a new hard line.  Of course I would also tend to use a flexible line if it could be made to work properly.  That line should be under little to no pressure if it is from the tank to the first fuel filter, it should be under suction.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
4104SoFl
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« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2013, 12:28:16 PM »

I agree. I'm going to see about a new line material.
Have pulled the water tank out of the way to get to the lines.
It is leaking right where it goes thru the wall just before the tires
There are several lines in this area both copper and steel
Looks like just the two fuel lines are steel (Main & Return)
Looks like the correct way to fix it would have been to pull up a floor panel.
That's not going to happen
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Orville Meyer
Loxahatchee, FL
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« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2013, 12:46:02 PM »

I would replace it with plastic.  Nylon DOT air brake tubing will work well.
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« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2013, 01:10:28 PM »

 Many years ago I replaced mine with pre made up steel brake line by replacing a section at a time, the end fittings already on the lines makes it an easy job.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
 EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
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4104SoFl
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« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2013, 03:13:10 PM »

Well before I make up my mind, I've got to get the material that's wrap around both the copper and steel lines going thru the bulkhead in front of the tires removed. That is where the leak is. Any ideas what this stuff might be?Huh
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Orville Meyer
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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2013, 04:21:38 PM »

Assume it's asbestos based and take appropriate precautions.  Seriously.

Brian
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1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Spicer 8844 4 speed Zen meditation device
Vintage race cars -
1978 Lola T440 Formula Ford
1972 NTM MK-4 B/SR
luvrbus
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« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2013, 04:32:18 PM »

It's just a corrosion barrier made of cloth
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Utahclaimjumper
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« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2013, 05:08:40 PM »

 I agree, I've worked with the stuff a fair number of times and its only canvass.>>>Dan
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Utahclaimjumper 
 EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
 72 VW Baja towed
chessie4905
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« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2013, 05:41:25 PM »

  Just cut the line in front of bulkhead and install a coupler with ferrule on the steel line and go from there with braided ss line with appropriate connector to check valve at engine firewall. Probably has a hole from salt spray from years ago.
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GMC h8h 649#028
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