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Author Topic: Shavehead rivets  (Read 1777 times)
chessie4905
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« on: August 29, 2013, 05:37:43 PM »

   Anybody have tips, experience, cautions, on using them to install new panel? The full width one below my windshield.
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GMC h8h 649#028
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« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2013, 05:50:51 PM »

You need a good shaver with a adjustable depth head the faster the rpm the better the job do it 2 stages at least,5774 rivets on a Eagle btdt I only screwed up one piece of siding  80 bucks for siding 105 bucks for shipping from IBP in Fl lol
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chessie4905
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« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2013, 07:05:01 AM »

I did a lot of(several hundred) solid alum rivets on a  IC-41 Brill several years ago. Lengthened it 2 1/2 feet. Decided to do riveting easier with shave heads this time. What rivet tool did you use. Considering this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-air-hydraulic-riveter-98898.html
« Last Edit: August 30, 2013, 07:09:10 AM by chessie4905 » Logged

GMC h8h 649#028
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sledhead
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« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2013, 09:55:37 AM »

I have the same rivet gun works great , it's 7 years old  with no problems   

dave
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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2013, 10:14:02 AM »

I have a similar rivet gun, only Princess Auto not HF.  Works great,  I use it to pull Apex rivets, which pull a little harder than your normal 3/16" rivet, and it does great.  Not sure if it would handle 1/4" pull rivets though.

Brian
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« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2013, 10:29:26 AM »

I never could get one to pull 3/16 structural rivets regular aluminum pop rivets it worked ok
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belfert
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« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2013, 10:47:31 AM »

Craig Shepherd loaned me his HF rivet gun (same one as linked) when I paneled over my windows.  His was still working fine after thousands of rivets.  I used the Bulb-Tite rivets and I think they were 1/4".

I bought one later as I had a few other things to rivet.  I don't think I got even 100 rivets out of mine before it quit working.  It was out of warranty by then as warranty is only 90 days.  If you get a good one they work good.
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« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2013, 11:01:00 AM »

I have a Taylor with 3850# of pulling pounds it does a good job on even monobolts  the cost was a little more than H/F but for 6000 rivets I needed something that would work
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2013, 03:50:15 PM »

Chessie,

Get the heavy duty one from Harbor Freight, I pulled over 3000 shaved heads on my coach.

Buy it just before you use it, just in case, for the 90 day warranty.

Cut the ends off with a long handle side or end cutter, then use the shaver.

It takes a little finesse to get it right, but its a touch thing, mostly going round and round.

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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chessie4905
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« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2013, 02:54:27 PM »

   Blyler lists replacement cutters for the head shaver...how long do they last. Do I need to get spares?
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chessie4905
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« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2013, 02:54:55 PM »

   Blyler lists replacement cutters for the head shaver...how long do they last. Do I need to get spares?
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FloridaCliff
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« Reply #11 on: September 11, 2013, 03:38:22 PM »

   Blyler lists replacement cutters for the head shaver...how long do they last. Do I need to get spares?

One will last you.

Cliff
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1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

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chessie4905
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« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2013, 04:26:22 PM »

   Well today I removed the front panel below windshield. I temp am using two hydraulic jacks two feet left and right of center to prevent any sag with panel removal. Just enough pressure on underside front of  dash without cracking windshields. So far, so good. Panel slid out from upper one easier than I feared; just some wiggling at either end. Lot of drilling and punching. Now to clean up area and apply some sealer coating before attempting install new panel. Fingers crossed.......
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GMC h8h 649#028
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« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2013, 05:17:38 PM »

   Well today I removed the front panel below windshield. I temp am using two hydraulic jacks two feet left and right of center to prevent any sag with panel removal. Just enough pressure on underside front of  dash without cracking windshields. So far, so good. Panel slid out from upper one easier than I feared; just some wiggling at either end. Lot of drilling and punching. Now to clean up area and apply some sealer coating before attempting install new panel. Fingers crossed.......

I don't understand. Are you saying you are using jacks under the dash because you're afraid the bus frame is going to sag when you remove the riveted panel below the windshield?
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Craig Shepard
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chessie4905
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« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2013, 05:42:40 PM »

Yes, very,very light pressure since weight of windshields could cause  some misalignment of holes. Probably not a problem, but I didn't want to take any chances. Also, there is only a brace on the driver side that is complete from floor to panel at base of windshield. The pass side doesn't have one.
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GMC h8h 649#028
Pennsylvania-central
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