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Author Topic: How to Bus build book  (Read 2020 times)
harleyman_1000
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« on: September 07, 2013, 12:17:14 PM »

 Is there such a thing as a build a bus for dummies  Roll Eyes
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Scott 
St.Louis Missouri

1958 GM 4104 Extended 2 feet, with a 6v92 and 5 speed automatic

http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1
Cary and Don
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« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2013, 12:39:59 PM »

Yes,  Dave Galey's Bus Converters Bible.  He wrote these books some time ago,  but the basics are there and still apply.  I would also invest in electrical for dummies and plumbing for dummies.  It doesn't matter if it's a bus or house,  the general information is the same.

Don and Cary
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1973 05 Eagle
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Jriddle
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« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2013, 12:56:42 PM »

Send me your address by PM. I will give you mine. I will not be able to send it for a few days though.

John
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John Riddle
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Dave5Cs
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« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2013, 05:07:25 PM »

Harleyman check your e mail, your welcome HTH.

Dave5Cs
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Kajun_Taz
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2013, 05:14:34 PM »

Where can someone buy a copy of it... and how much does it costs on average?
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Better to be judged by 12 then carried by 6.
Nick Badame Refrig/ACC
1989, MCI 102C3, 8V92T, HT740, 06' conversion FMCA# F-27317-S "Wife- 1969 Italian/German Style"
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2013, 05:27:42 PM »

Hi Scott,

Here is the link from our web site for the e version.
http://www.busconversions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=38&osCsid=48hevkd8ikgjldpaubkf751s23

Hope this helps
Nick-
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Whatever it takes!-GITIT DONE! 
Commercial Refrigeration- Ice machines- Heating & Air/ Atlantic Custom Coach Inc.
Master Mason- Cannon Lodge #104
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harleyman_1000
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« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2013, 05:27:41 AM »

Harleyman check your e mail, your welcome HTH.

Dave5Cs

Thank you Dave. I was up reading it until 3 am
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Scott 
St.Louis Missouri

1958 GM 4104 Extended 2 feet, with a 6v92 and 5 speed automatic

http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1
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« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2013, 10:45:20 AM »

I think most of Dave Galey's books are available on Amazon. They have been a huge help for us as we have converted our bus. Some of the details may be a little dated, but they are good for inspiration and ideas if nothing else. 


~ Andy
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The Causey Family Cruiser
'87 MCI MC9
Wylie, TX (Dallas area)
harleyman_1000
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« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2013, 06:04:57 PM »

 The plumbing helped me to understand how to rework my bus, but the wiring section isnt helping me to understand it? I understand house wiring, but am totally lost with the 12 volt  Huh
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Scott 
St.Louis Missouri

1958 GM 4104 Extended 2 feet, with a 6v92 and 5 speed automatic

http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1
Dave5Cs
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« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2013, 06:18:33 PM »

Harley try here it will give you a basic understanding. I am not the one to ask about 12volt or any DC wiring. Still trying to figure it out, house wiring is a lot easier IMHO.

http://www.reference.com/motif/consumer_electronics/12-volt-camper-wiring

Dave5Cs
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akroyaleagle
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« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2013, 07:54:16 PM »

You have received some good suggestions. Here's a few more for 12V.

Always use stranded wire! 14ga will do most of the DC stuff but check the amps you are going to demand through it and step up to 12,10, or 8 if needed.

Install a ground bar near where you have your 12V supply bar.

Run a 8 ga wire from the house batteries ground post to the ground bar. Run a red 10 gauge from the hot side of the house batteries to the 12V supply bar. I suggest putting the ground on one end of the battery pack and the hot on the other end. Also run a red 8 gauge from one end positive on the batteries to the other end positive. That will help equalize the load.

NEVER WIRE HOTS OR GROUNDS TO SEVERAL DIFFERENT LOADS!

Always run a separate ground wire from the ground bar,  to the switch, then to the load.
Always run a separate hot wire from the hot bar to a dedicated fuse in the fuse panel, then to the load.
If you buy a fuse panel with indicator lights, you will know at a glance which fuse is blown.
Buy bars with excess terminals on them. (For future brainstorms)

Avoid ever splicing a wire. That's just asking for trouble later.

Number each wire on each end, and record it on a wiring record/log/diagram, whatever makes them identifiable in the future. You should have NO unnumbered wires A/C or D/C in your coach.
If you need help locating the supplies, let us know.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2013, 08:19:49 PM by akroyaleagle » Logged

Joe Laird
'78 Eagle
Huron, South Dakota
harleyman_1000
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« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2013, 07:40:17 PM »

You have received some good suggestions. Here's a few more for 12V.

Always use stranded wire! 14ga will do most of the DC stuff but check the amps you are going to demand through it and step up to 12,10, or 8 if needed.

Install a ground bar near where you have your 12V supply bar.

Run a 8 ga wire from the house batteries ground post to the ground bar. Run a red 10 gauge from the hot side of the house batteries to the 12V supply bar. I suggest putting the ground on one end of the battery pack and the hot on the other end. Also run a red 8 gauge from one end positive on the batteries to the other end positive. That will help equalize the load.

NEVER WIRE HOTS OR GROUNDS TO SEVERAL DIFFERENT LOADS!

Always run a separate ground wire from the ground bar,  to the switch, then to the load.
Always run a separate hot wire from the hot bar to a dedicated fuse in the fuse panel, then to the load.
If you buy a fuse panel with indicator lights, you will know at a glance which fuse is blown.
Buy bars with excess terminals on them. (For future brainstorms)

Avoid ever splicing a wire. That's just asking for trouble later.

Number each wire on each end, and record it on a wiring record/log/diagram, whatever makes them identifiable in the future. You should have NO unnumbered wires A/C or D/C in your coach.
If you need help locating the supplies, let us know.


Im redoing a coach, and it's a mess with both 12 and 24 volt system, and none of the wiring is marked
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Scott 
St.Louis Missouri

1958 GM 4104 Extended 2 feet, with a 6v92 and 5 speed automatic

http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1
jpsmitty
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« Reply #12 on: September 10, 2013, 08:31:08 PM »

You can get Dave's book directly from him
http://www.winlockgaley.com/
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akroyaleagle
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« Reply #13 on: September 10, 2013, 10:25:43 PM »

Im redoing a coach, and it's a mess with both 12 and 24 volt system, and none of the wiring is marked

That, unfortunately describes the majority of converted coaches I have seen.

It is a lot of work to clean it up. Too many folks now just patch something in.
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Joe Laird
'78 Eagle
Huron, South Dakota
Cary and Don
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« Reply #14 on: September 11, 2013, 08:43:56 AM »

If you have both 12 and 24 volt have separate colors for each,  red for 12 and red with white stripe for 24.  Then you will never mix the two up. We also did a color code ring to denote house or coach wiring.  Make a drawing of each panel you install and label all the connections on it like any manual.  Makes it a lot easier in the future without opening up the panels.

Don and Cary
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1973 05 Eagle
Neoplan AN340
Geoff
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« Reply #15 on: September 11, 2013, 09:03:16 AM »

Im redoing a coach, and it's a mess with both 12 and 24 volt system, and none of the wiring is marked

I thought I disconnected all the 24v wiring when you had your bus over here.  Everything should be 12v, you just have a lot of left-over relays that aren't doing anything.  You need to get 4 batteries in the left side battery compartment (I recommend 4 6v golf carts hooked for 12v to run your house system).  Corroded wiring in the driver's area is a matter of rewiring.  Everything should be 12v.

--Geoff
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Geoff
'82 RTS AZ
harleyman_1000
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« Reply #16 on: September 11, 2013, 06:17:24 PM »

I thought I disconnected all the 24v wiring when you had your bus over here.  Everything should be 12v, you just have a lot of left-over relays that aren't doing anything.  You need to get 4 batteries in the left side battery compartment (I recommend 4 6v golf carts hooked for 12v to run your house system).  Corroded wiring in the driver's area is a matter of rewiring.  Everything should be 12v.

--Geoff

 Yes Geoff you did, and now I want to remove all the 24 volt wiring and relays that aren't being used. I want to have the genset charge the batteries when it's running. I am thinking on just rewiring a new house battery system, but not removing the old wiring untill I see if my wiring works  Roll Eyes
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Scott 
St.Louis Missouri

1958 GM 4104 Extended 2 feet, with a 6v92 and 5 speed automatic

http://s783.photobucket.com/user/harleyman_1000/library/Gm4104%20bus?sort=3&page=1
Melbo
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« Reply #17 on: September 11, 2013, 06:35:19 PM »

PM me an address and I will send you a book about RV wiring that I read and no longer use.

Melbo
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