If the nuts are tight before clamp up, it has been my experience that they had been previously over tightened which resulted in some of the threads being deformed - which means new nuts are required.
If new nuts are tight before clamp up, then the studs have been stretched & it is time to replace them.
As for the required torque -
The torque is only a means of estimating the stud stretch which provides the clamping force.
The best way is to directly measure stud stretch - but since the back of the studs are usually inaccessible, that isn't a realistic method.
DRY torque is most repeatable (provided the threads are clean & not deformed) which is why it is used.
Lubricated torque is the most variable due to the differences in various lubricants.
As for never seize lubricants - which one you using? There are over a dozen to choose from & if you use a moly base, you will get lots more stud stretch for a given torque than if you used a graphite base.
My preference is clean & dry new threads.
When conditions conspire to prevent this;
I will use 3 drops of clean engine oil on the threads only - not the tapered face. Once tight, a light coat of a marine grade never seize on the exposed threads to prevent corrosion.
Bottom line is that well informed common sense will go a long way towards success.