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Author Topic: Tank venting  (Read 1980 times)
Tikvah
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« on: September 14, 2013, 05:42:07 AM »

I know this subject has been tackled many times, but let's do it once more.....two questions really.

I recently installed a vent on our black tank, seems to have helped a lot with odor.  Now I've finished my kitchen plumbing and realize that I need a vent in my drain pipes (my shower isn't draining properly).  Should I tie my shower drain pipe to my black tank vent?  Do I need separate vents?  I really don't want another pipe through my roof. 

Secondly, we took a drive and noticed some tank odor in the bus???

Dave
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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2013, 06:25:19 AM »

Does anyone know how the high end converters get away with tank venting without any holes in the roof?

Dave the answer might help both of us.

Grant
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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2013, 06:31:12 AM »

When I did mine I tied all the vents to one like a stack vent with just one pipe through the roof. I havn't had any stink problems and has been working for over six years. Jerry
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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2013, 06:38:02 AM »

I put 2 vents in , 1 black , 1 grey . The smell is from the toilet bowl seal . Hard to keep the seal working       dave
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2013, 06:52:41 AM »

You can tie the two vents together and have one exit up high.  You can even use the main drain line as part of the vent line, as long as it is a straight, constantly rising run to the tank (so before any P-traps).  As long as you have a main tank vent you can usually use an air admittance valve to vent a sink or a shower, if tying  the vents together is hard.  The vent is for two purposes, to let air in after water to improve draining, so you vent the drain lines, and to let sewer gases escape, so you vent the tank with a constantly rising line.

Brian
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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2013, 07:05:13 AM »

   Make sure you put some antifreeze in that little hole at top of bowl. Otherwise, when it dries out, the tank fumes will escape into the coach, especially going down the road with the tank contents sloshing around.
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« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2013, 07:14:11 AM »

Ditto what Brian said.

I ran a black tank vent out the rear wall of the last bay to the rear tire well.  Initially I vented the gray tank but just on top of the tank into the bay not realizing how nasty smelling the gray tank was.  Come to find out the gray tank smells worse than the black tank.  It is nasty.  So I used 1" flexible tubing to go from the top of the gray tank and tap into the black tank vent.  Works great- smell is gone.

Some things to think about -
1.  Not sure why...probably air pressure something or other....but when we are moving down the road we cannot flush the toilet without air blowing back up into the toilet when we flush.  Can be messy.  Only a problem at highway speeds...not a deal killer to us.  I used 2" pipe to vent and that may be part of the problem.  Wifey was the first to figure that out and quickly let us know with a loud scream followed by a mumble of grossed outness.

2.  USE MICROFIBER SCREEN on your vent.  We had problems with poop flies after about a month and Scott Bennett gave us the inside tip on this one.  He gave us some screen that was tight enough to keep fruitflies out and we covered the vent with the screen held in place by a cap that we cut the middle out of.  Worked great.  No more flies.

3. Make sure your graytank vent is wide enough to let as much air in as water outflow.  If not then when you dump your gray tank it can suck the water out of your drain traps.  Then your bus will slowly start to smell like the gray tank until you run the sinks again.  We have a 1.5" drain and the 1" drainhose seems to let enough air in to prevent this.

Wish you the best!

-Sean


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« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2013, 08:37:06 AM »

I put three vents through the roof 1 1/2 inch. Might be overkill for our gray/black tank. One thing to keep in mind is is when you are sitting around outside with you favorite beverage is that you don't want to be smelling it either. I would think not venting it up high you may run the risk of having this happen. I have only smelled our tank when parked. That is when more chemicals go I tank.

John
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« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2013, 04:32:24 PM »

I ended up putting a vent from the black tank up through the roof and venting all the internal plumbing with one-way valves like these: 
http://t.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Sure-Vent-1-1-2-in-x-2-in-PVC-Air-Admittance-Valve-39016/100201861/
We've only taken a few trips since installation but no problems or smells in the bus so far.

~ Andy
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« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2013, 06:27:11 PM »

We have one vent.
Tried several different things.
Last one several years ago is a venturi which creates a low pressure area rear of the vent. Works good.

Biggest problem was figuring out do not flush while moving until the drivers toll window is closed.
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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2013, 07:10:22 AM »

we used 2 vents. one black tank, one gray tank. A thought if you don't want to go through the roof... we sent ours out the side up top.

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« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2013, 09:32:33 AM »

If the problem you are trying to solve is slow draining from the fixtures, the inline vents work fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-39012-In-Line-Vent-Black/dp/B000KKSP52
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« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2013, 09:48:27 PM »

we used 2 vents. one black tank, one gray tank. A thought if you don't want to go through the roof... we sent ours out the side up top.
That pretty much what I'll be doing, but with a slight difference.   I don't have any vents going through the roof because there will be solar panels up there.   My gray and poo tanks each have two 2" vents in diagonally opposite corners on their tops, and the front vents of each tank join together.   The poo tank's rear vent exits up through a West Marine louvered hose vent out a blanked-off window on the left side, with the vent's louvers facing forward to force air into the tank(s) while driving.   The gray tank's rear vent goes down to ground level and points back, to help suck air out by venturi effect.   This way as I'm driving the air is circulating through both tanks, and the stinky air is at ground level so it cannot get easily drawn up back into the bus.

Keeping fresh air circulating through the poo tank will help the aerobic bacteria there do their thing, hopefully avoiding the use of nasty chemicals to control odors.

John
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« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2013, 02:59:32 AM »


Negative pressure for me. Don't need tank pressurized when driving. One might get unwanted blow back. LOL

John


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« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2013, 03:12:36 AM »

The idea of venting down into a negative pressure area seems intriguing to me.  Even if just during driving.  If I vent in front of my duals, is that enough?
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« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2013, 08:24:58 AM »

At least with the black tank, you should vent to the roof. Some vent through the floor-thing is when you flush, the stinky air in the tank is displaced out the vent. If the wind is just right, will fumigate the outside folks. Roof vent is the best. Good Luck, TomC
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« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2013, 11:06:48 AM »

Current bus has roof vent and three fantastic fans that do a fantastic job of sucking in odor.  Only way we can use them to ventilate is blowing out with windows open to allow air in. Can't leave one open without running the fan.

Roof vent is about equal distance from the three fans and sure to drift odor to one.  If I was doing it now I would run the vent as near the rear of roof as possible or even out the back side of the rear cap.  I am considering putting a elbow on the vent and running it to the rear to get away from the fans.

It is really annoying that I can't even crack open the ceiling vents when the bus is not in use to ventilate.
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« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2013, 11:44:38 AM »

What Sean said up a few posts ^ we also vented our black tank through the floor of the luggage bay. Never ever have had odors in the coach while driving or parked and never smell them when outside and parked. Works perfectly. Highly recommended. As Sean mentioned, you'll get tons of fruit/poo flies making eggs in your black tank unless you screen the vent.


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« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2013, 05:54:57 PM »

Does anyone know how the high end converters get away with tank venting without any holes in the roof?

Dave the answer might help both of us.

Grant

Hi Grant,

I have worked on many entertainer coaches, Hemphill, Florida Coach, & Star City, and they all vent their
tanks from a fitting at the top of the tank that turns down and vents directly through the floor of the bay.
It will also act as an overflow. Lol...
And by the way, the entertainer coaches stink too when the tanks are not flushed..

Nick-
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« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2013, 05:57:20 PM »

I must be living right. I have not had any smell come in my fantastic fans from my three roof vents.

John
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« Reply #20 on: September 16, 2013, 06:01:02 PM »

Another way to vent is automatic vents installed at each sink of shower. "also known as AAV's"
I have one installed in my kitchen sink of my coach.

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/autovent.html

Here is an example.
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« Reply #21 on: September 23, 2013, 10:25:19 PM »

I vented my tanks through the floor near the rear axle ( I hate holes in the roof). I had some issues earlier on but it ended up being a toilet vent that was sucking poo smells into the coach while driving. New head and we are poo free. The other benefit is when the tank is full it just runs out the vent. Disgusting but better than filling your shower tray Smiley

In the trouble shooting era I installed a little buddy or a tank buddy or an anti poo smell fan. I cant remember the name but it runs inline with the vent and pulls just enough to prevent possitive pressure in the tank.

I also opted for the single grey, black tank system. I can bypass the grey water when I am staying at relatives. Otherwise it all ends up in the same place anyway and the system is cheaper and less hassles.

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« Reply #22 on: September 25, 2013, 05:20:31 PM »

Has anyone tried this?

http://drainmaster.com/site/products/mini-view4
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« Reply #23 on: September 26, 2013, 08:36:20 AM »



Welcome
I don't have any experience using this type of vent but looks like it would work well. When it comes to how you vent your tanks there is a lot of differing opinions here. I for one made mine go out the roof. I didn't see any problem with putting HOLES through the roof. I think each person has there own right to how they do it but I for one believe the vent should go up just like in any house built in this country. I haven't personally seen any sewage vents in building construction coming out low. All I have seen is out the roof or near the roof.

My Way
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« Reply #24 on: September 26, 2013, 08:54:20 AM »

I tied the large tanks and the shower into one large bent that exits the roof and it also works great..I have each sink independently vented at the source with a shorty type local vent, this set up worked for me very well.
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« Reply #25 on: September 26, 2013, 09:07:18 AM »

I was able to run mine up to the refer vent, one less hole in the roof.

If you ever to go rallys where they use a honey wagon to suck out your tanks, you will be grateful for a large (at least 1-1/2") vent.  Without it, they will empty the traps and perhaps even collapse the tank.
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