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Author Topic: Air Leaks 4104  (Read 922 times)
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Posts: 43

« Reply #15 on: November 14, 2013, 08:53:32 AM »

Yes I did

Orville Meyer
Loxahatchee, FL
Hoping for the best / Preparing for the worst
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Posts: 494

« Reply #16 on: November 14, 2013, 03:05:37 PM »

   Probably at least a couple of things. Did you replace the diaphragms to correct this problem initially? Did the brakes work ok for awhile after you repaired the chambers? If not, you obviously reassembled them with wrong or incorrectly installed diaphragms, or have a reversed hose or hole in one, or another issue instead of a leaking chamber,etc. If so, I would check the valve at the rear tank first, then the tank for a leak. Since you say it stops at 35psi, it sounds like that em. brake valve, but you'll need to SAFELY get under there and check it out. Who knows what kind of plumbing was added to install the maxi-chambers.

GMC h8h 649#028
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'53 4104. Roadworthy but rough around the edges.


« Reply #17 on: November 17, 2013, 03:43:21 AM »

look at the diagrams/explanations in the shop manual they explain location and functions of air lines and wet/dry tanks.  Agree with Gus rear wet tank probably scrap.  Had to change all 3 tanks on my 04 when I got it.

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« Reply #18 on: November 17, 2013, 01:07:28 PM »

    The "gold standard" is the soap bubble test, but I've found that using a stethoscope (or a 3 foot long piece of 1/4" DOT tube) is a good way to track down areas where you need to apply soap.  The sound test won't work on tiny, slow leaks but if it's a leak big enough to cause your system to act oddly, you'll be able to hear enough to point you towards likely problems.

Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long
6-cyl, 4-stroke, Leyland O-680 engine
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