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Author Topic: How to Block engine noise from back bedroom?  (Read 1322 times)
Bryan
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« on: November 21, 2013, 11:14:59 AM »

Hey guys! We are remodeling the back of our bus into a bedroom. The POs apparently didn't do any sound deadening, it's LOUD!  Shocked We have taken everything out and working from the ground up. What do you guys recommend for blocking the engine noise in the rear room? Thanks for your time!  Cheesy
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Bryan Edmonds
PD4107-756
Toccoa, GA
luvrbus
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« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2013, 11:26:47 AM »

Most of us have used lead sheets heavy as hell but it works I tried some of the hightech stuff before going to the lead sheets and some Prevost models have lead sheets from the back to front of the entire bus
« Last Edit: November 21, 2013, 11:30:33 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Seangie
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« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2013, 01:20:27 PM »

Bryan,

When I do my next bus - Smiley  I would start in the engine bay if at all possible.  If you have any plans on pulling the engine out any time in the future, plan on spending the time cleaning up the bay and insulating the floor and deadening the sound from in there.  From above - I would use a fire rated or soundproof subflooring such as - http://www.homasote.com/products/4-Way-Floor-Deck.aspx and use a thin (2mil) loaded vinyl layer on top of the subflooring and then your flooring on top of that.

Thats what I got on paper anyways. 

We don't care so much about the sound we get while running down the road (puts us to sleep) so much as the heat that comes up from the engine.  The floor gets up to about 120 degrees and it gets really warm in the bedroom.  Great for cold days of driving.  Not so much in the summer.

-Sean


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« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2013, 01:32:55 PM »

 My 06 was professionally converted in the 70s, back then the process was to lead line the entire floor from end to end, and mine was done this way with 1/8th lead sheets. I have to admit it does work well for heat AND sound, the finished coach still only topped out at 24400 lbs.>>>Dan
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chessie4905
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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2013, 02:42:33 PM »

   I used this in my diesel pickup with very good results. I topped it with home carpet padding from Lowes. I'm more than satisfied with the results.

http://www.fatmat.com/shop/100-sq-ft-rattle-trap-bulk-pack-install-kit-included-6582
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Bryan
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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2013, 03:08:32 PM »

I was told that layering a sheet of "air condition duct work insulation", then hardy board, then thick sheetrock would do a very nice job. Anyone heard of this combination?
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Bryan Edmonds
PD4107-756
Toccoa, GA
Bryan
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« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2013, 03:10:47 PM »

   I used this in my diesel pickup with very good results. I topped it with home carpet padding from Lowes. I'm more than satisfied with the results.

http://www.fatmat.com/shop/100-sq-ft-rattle-trap-bulk-pack-install-kit-included-6582


Thanks Chessie4905, I just checked this out. It seemed to be more for sound systems, and getting quality bass kicks, etc, (which I would like lol) but is it necessarily the best bang for my buck to stop the noise from the engine? It seems so thin, lol. What do you think? thanks!
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Bryan Edmonds
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Toccoa, GA
luvrbus
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« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2013, 03:34:09 PM »

You want something flexible not solid for sound deadening  1/8 inch lead is a overkill at 8# per square ft these 2 million dollar coaches are 1/32 or 1/64 mine was 1/8 inch also if you want to do it 1 time and not 3 times like I did then lead is the way to go lay it down put plywood over it lay the flooring it's for ever then no squeaking floors either    
« Last Edit: November 22, 2013, 05:17:42 AM by luvrbus » Logged

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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2013, 06:29:15 PM »

Definitely put Sheetrock in there. We used firerock which gives us 90 minutes time to get out in case of an engine fire. Blocked the sound and the heat Smiley


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
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Scott & Heather
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« Reply #9 on: November 21, 2013, 06:57:18 PM »

When we want to stop the engine noise from the bedroom we park the coach.

I stays a little warm for a bit but we just turn up the AC.

Works for us.

Melbo
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« Reply #10 on: November 21, 2013, 09:09:35 PM »

I laid a sheet of grease wrap insulation down over that back area before I built my bed. They use that to wrap the grease duct in restaurants, its made up of ceramic fiber, good to 1000 degrees and kills some of the sound. I wasn't trying to make it totally quiet, thats like trying to catch a mouse. Craig
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Scott Bennett
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« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2013, 08:06:51 AM »

I laid a sheet of grease wrap insulation down over that back area before I built my bed. They use that to wrap the grease duct in restaurants, its made up of ceramic fiber, good to 1000 degrees and kills some of the sound. I wasn't trying to make it totally quiet, thats like trying to catch a mouse. Craig

 Roll Eyes some people....   Wink  If you can muffle the noise (even using greasy ducting like Craig) then you'll find the constant gentle rumble of the engine at idle is excellent white noise at a truck stop when you're trying to sleep. Since our air purge valve is at the front of the coach, we don't even hear it from the bedroom...just a nice, gentle consistent rumble.
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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise & conversion in progress.
http://www.scottmichaelbennett.com/p/our-bus.html
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luvrbus
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« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2013, 08:16:59 AM »

LoL have you ever priced the duct wrap for a vent hood in a restaurant lead is cheap 
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« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2013, 09:22:32 AM »

I did that to our MC 9 as one of my first improvement projects. First I disassembled the bedroom completely and painted the entire area above the engine and trans with insulating paint. Then I covered the entire area with 2" bats of Rockwool insulation, covered with plastic sheets. I also built in a storage closet above the radiator bay and then reassembled the bedroom.This has completely transformed the bedroom from a 'don't go in there' when the bus is running down the road to "nice place for the kitties to hang". The bedroom is now quiet enough and cool enough for a nap while rolling down the road. See the project at our blog:

http://mightybus.wordpress.com/2011/03/
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belfert
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« Reply #14 on: November 22, 2013, 09:47:36 AM »

Does anyone have any ideas on changes I can make to the rear area to add heat proofing or sound proofing in an already built bus?  I had all the bunks out last summer to redo them and should have made changes then, but I didn't.
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Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN
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